Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Journey

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day etched in time, a pilgrimage into the heart of Yakushima's ancient cedar forests. It was about more than just seeing old trees; it was about connecting with something timeless, something that whispered stories of centuries past. It was a challenging trek, but every step was worth it, offering glimpses of a world untouched by the modern rush. I felt alive, invigorated, and deeply humbled by the sheer age and resilience of these arboreal giants.

The day began early, fueled by a quick breakfast at Smiley in Anbo. This cozy little café, with its cheerful atmosphere, was the perfect spot to grab a bite before embarking on such a long hike. I opted for a simple toast and coffee, enough to get me going. Apparently, Smiley is known for its thoughtfully served food, and it definitely started my day off right. I made sure to thank the staff before heading out, energized and ready to tackle the trails.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.

The Arakawa Trailhead was buzzing with fellow hikers, all eager to witness the legendary Jōmon Sugi. Since private vehicles aren't allowed on the access road during peak season, I hopped on the mandatory shuttle bus from the Yakusugi Museum. The bus ride was a great opportunity to chat with other travelers, swapping stories and tips for the hike ahead. The anticipation was palpable.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The initial part of the trail followed an old railway line, a relic from Yakushima's logging past. It was fascinating to walk along these tracks, imagining the bustling industry that once thrived here. The path was relatively flat, making for an easy start, which was welcome considering the long day ahead. Along the way, I passed the abandoned village of Kosugidani, a poignant reminder of the island's history. It's hard to believe that this quiet, overgrown area was once a thriving logging community. I paused for a moment, reflecting on the rise and fall of human endeavors against the backdrop of nature's enduring presence.

The forest was a cathedral of green, sunlight filtering through the canopy like stained glass, each step a hushed reverence for the ancient beings that stood sentinel.

As I ventured deeper into the forest, the trail gradually ascended, and the real challenge began. The humidity was thick, typical for Yakushima in July, and the air was alive with the sounds of unseen creatures. The forest floor was a tapestry of mosses, ferns, and tangled roots, a testament to the island's abundant rainfall. I was grateful for my hiking boots and rain jacket, two essentials I’d packed, unlike the insect repellent and travel pillow I'd forgotten back in Berlin. I definitely felt the absence of the insect repellent!

After hours of trekking, I finally reached Wilson's Stump, the hollowed-out remains of a giant cedar felled centuries ago. The sheer size of the stump was awe-inspiring; it's hard to fathom the scale of the tree that once stood here. Inside, a natural spring bubbled, creating a serene and almost mystical atmosphere. The history of the stump is fascinating; it's said to have been cut down in the 1580s, and its rediscovery in the early 20th century helped to raise awareness of Yakushima's unique ecosystem. I took a moment to appreciate the three young cedars sprouting from its side, a symbol of regeneration and hope.

Continuing onward, the trail led me to Daio Sugi, the Great King Cedar. Before the discovery of Jōmon Sugi, Daio Sugi was considered the largest tree on the island. Even now, it's an impressive sight, standing tall and proud despite its age. Unlike Jōmon Sugi, you can get quite close to Daio Sugi, allowing for a more intimate experience. I spent some time admiring its gnarled branches and massive trunk, feeling a deep connection to this ancient being.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

Finally, after roughly 5 hours of hiking, I arrived at Jōmon Sugi. The oldest and largest of the Yakusugi cedars, it's estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old. The tree itself is a sight to behold, its massive trunk and sturdy branches a testament to its incredible longevity. While you can't walk right up to the tree (access is restricted to an observation deck to protect its roots), the view is still breathtaking. I stood there for a long time, simply absorbing the energy of this ancient giant. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the insignificance of human existence in the face of nature's enduring power.

The hike back was just as challenging, but the sense of accomplishment kept me going. The light was fading, casting long shadows through the forest, and the air was cooler. I made sure to take plenty of breaks, savoring the last moments of my time in this magical place.

Back in Anbo, I treated myself to a well-deserved dinner at SamPotei. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and I was eager to try some local Yakushima cuisine. I opted for the flying fish set meal, a regional specialty, and it was absolutely delicious. The fish was fresh and flavorful, and the side dishes were equally impressive. It was the perfect way to end a long and rewarding day.


Experience the flavors of Japan at SamPotei, where traditional izakaya meets modern culinary artistry in the heart of Yakushima.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by Pukaridō, a local shop near the airport, to pick up a souvenir. I wanted something to remind me of my time in Yakushima, and I found a beautiful Yakusugi wood carving that was perfect. The shop had a great selection of local crafts and products, making it a great place to support the local economy.


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.

As I reflect on today's adventure, I'm filled with a sense of gratitude and awe. The hike to Jōmon Sugi was more than just a physical challenge; it was a journey into the heart of nature's ancient wisdom. It was a reminder of the importance of preserving our planet's natural treasures and a testament to the enduring power of the human spirit.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yakusugi Land and Kigensugi Cedar. After a day of hiking, I’m looking forward to relaxing at Ganta bar in the evening. I’ll make sure to share all the details with you tomorrow!

I'm constantly reminded that the best journeys aren't just about seeing new places, but about how they change you. And Yakushima, with its ancient forests and serene landscapes, is certainly changing me for the better.