Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Journey

Into the Emerald Heart of Yakushima

Today was a day of deep immersion into the ancient heart of Yakushima. I traded the familiar bustle of Berlin for the hushed reverence of forests that have stood for millennia. It's incredible to think that just yesterday, I was navigating the modern maze of Tokyo, and now I'm wandering through landscapes that seem untouched by time. This solo journey is already proving to be exactly what I needed: a chance to reconnect with nature and with myself.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. I had heard whispers about their omurice, and it did not disappoint. The hamburg-steak omurice was cooked perfectly, with a delightful touch of pink in the center. Paired with a strong coffee, it was the ideal fuel for a day of hiking. The cafe itself had a fashionable interior and the staff were friendly, setting a positive tone for the adventures ahead.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.

Shiratani Unsui Gorge: A Living Tapestry

After breakfast, I made my way to Shiratani Unsui Gorge. The bus ride there was an experience in itself, winding through narrow roads with glimpses of the coastline and the towering mountains that define Yakushima. As I stepped off the bus, the air was thick with moisture and the scent of cedar and moss. It was immediately clear why this place is said to have inspired the movie *Princess Mononoke*. The forest floor was a carpet of vibrant green moss, blanketing every rock and tree trunk. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow that seemed to breathe life into the landscape.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

I chose the Taikoiwa Rock route, a 4-5 hour round trip that promised panoramic views. The trail was challenging but incredibly rewarding. I carefully navigated over rocks and roots, marveling at the ancient Yakusugi cedars that stood like silent sentinels along the path. The sound of the rushing water was a constant companion, a soothing melody that drowned out the noise of the outside world. I even spotted a few Yakushika deer, their gentle eyes watching me from the shadows.

Sometimes, the greatest journeys are those that lead us back to the simple beauty of the natural world.

As I climbed higher, the forest began to thin, and I caught glimpses of the surrounding peaks. Finally, I reached Taikoiwa Rock, and the view was breathtaking. From this vantage point, I could see the entire gorge stretching out before me, a sea of green broken only by the occasional rocky outcrop. The clouds danced around the peaks of Mt. Miyanoura, the highest point in Kyushu, creating a scene of unparalleled beauty. I sat there for a long time, simply soaking it all in, feeling a sense of peace and connection that I hadn't experienced in years.

Wilson's Stump: A Window to the Past

Leaving Shiratani Unsui Gorge, my next stop was Wilson's Stump. This wasn't just another landmark; it was a journey into the heart of history and nature intertwined. The story of Ernest Henry Wilson, the British botanist who brought Yakushima's wonders to the world's attention, added another layer of intrigue. Reaching the stump involved a moderate hike, and as I approached, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

The sheer size of Wilson's Stump is astounding. It's hard to fathom that this massive tree, believed to be over 3,000 years old when it was felled in 1586, once stood tall in this very spot. Stepping inside the hollow stump is like entering another world. The interior is surprisingly spacious, with a small shrine and a natural spring adding to the mystical atmosphere. Looking up through the opening, the sky is framed in a heart shape, a quirky feature that has made Wilson's Stump a popular spot for photographers. I took my time exploring the stump, imagining what it must have been like when the tree was still alive, a silent witness to centuries of change.

The history of the stump is fascinating. It was cut down on the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, a powerful daimyo, to be used in the construction of Hoko-ji Temple in Kyoto. The fact that this ancient tree was sacrificed for such a purpose is a reminder of the complex relationship between humans and nature.

Evening Reflections and Local Flavors

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan for dinner. I decided to try the local specialty, flying fish. I opted for the Deep-Fried Flying Fish Combo. The fish was crispy and flavorful, and the miso soup, also made with fish, was a delicious complement. It was a satisfying end to a day of exploration and discovery.


Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I decided to check out Cafe＆Bar RainTree. It was a cozy spot, and I enjoyed a quiet drink while reflecting on the day's adventures. The bar had a laid-back vibe, and I could see myself spending more time there during my stay.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Jōmon Sugi, the island's most famous ancient cedar. I'll also visit Daio Sugi, another giant of the forest. It’s going to be an early start, but I’m already excited to see what wonders await me. I might also stop by Pukaridō to grab a souvenir or two.

As I write this, the rain is falling softly outside, a constant reminder of Yakushima's lushness. I'm grateful for the opportunity to experience this magical place, to walk among giants and breathe in the ancient air. It's a journey that's already changing me in ways I can't yet fully understand, and I'm eager to see what the rest of my time here will bring. This trip is exactly what I needed to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with nature.

The peace I've found here is something I hope to carry back with me to Berlin. Perhaps a bit of Yakushima's ancient wisdom will find its way into my daily life, a reminder to slow down, appreciate the simple things, and always seek out the beauty that surrounds us.