Exploring the Ancient Forests of Yakushima: A Solo Adventure

Following the Forest's Call

Today was a day of whispers, the kind only ancient forests can conjure. I ventured deep into Yakushima's embrace, eager to witness the island's famed cedar trees and the ethereal beauty that draws so many to this UNESCO World Heritage site. My soul needed this immersion in nature, a break from the structured world of translation and the familiar comfort of my Leipzig home. I was ready to be humbled by the ancient giants and lose myself in the symphony of green.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Il Mare. Finding authentic Italian cuisine on a remote Japanese island was unexpected, but the promise of a strong coffee and a taste of home was too tempting to resist. The restaurant was conveniently located near the airport, making it an easy stop before my day's adventures began. Fortified, I set off towards Shiratani Unsui Gorge.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.
The drive itself was a treat, winding through lush landscapes with glimpses of the Pacific Ocean. The air was thick with humidity, a reminder of Yakushima's subtropical climate. I was glad I'd packed my lightweight rain jacket; the weather forecast suggested a chance of showers later in the day. As I drove, I was reminded of hiking with Hans in the Harz Mountains. While those trails hold their own charm, there's an undeniable mystique to Yakushima's ancient forests.

Arriving at Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I paid the forest maintenance donation and stepped into a world transformed. Moss-covered rocks and towering cedars created an otherworldly atmosphere, the kind that feels both ancient and timeless. It's easy to see why this place is said to have inspired Hayao Miyazaki's *Princess Mononoke*. Every corner seemed to hold a secret, every rustle of leaves a whispered story.

I spent hours wandering along the well-maintained trails, losing myself in the labyrinth of green. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the forest floor. I imagined Kati would love this place; her youthful energy would be perfectly suited to exploring these mystical trails. I made a mental note to bring her here someday. The paths varied in difficulty, but I opted for a moderate route, wanting to savor the experience without pushing myself too hard. I paused frequently to capture the beauty with my camera, trying to translate the forest's magic into a tangible form. It's a challenge, trying to capture the essence of a place that breathes and lives with such ancient energy.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

Leaving Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I continued my journey to Wilson's Stump.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.
The Arakawa Mountain Bus was necessary to get to the trailhead. This giant cedar stump, named after the botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, is a testament to the island's logging history and the resilience of nature. Reaching it required a bit more of a hike, but the reward was well worth the effort.

As I approached Wilson's Stump, its sheer size was astonishing. It's hard to fathom that this was once part of a living tree, estimated to be thousands of years old. Stepping inside the hollow stump, I was struck by the heart-shaped view of the sky above. It's a unique perspective, a glimpse of the world framed by the remains of an ancient giant. A small Shinto shrine inside added to the spiritual atmosphere. I spent a long time inside, simply absorbing the energy of the place, feeling a connection to the generations of people who have stood in this same spot.

The history of Wilson's Stump is fascinating. It's believed that the tree was cut down centuries ago to provide timber for a temple in Kyoto. It's a sobering thought, considering the tree's age and the role it played in the island's ecosystem. Yet, even in its demise, the stump continues to inspire and captivate. It's a reminder that even after destruction, beauty and wonder can still emerge.

By late afternoon, hunger began to gnaw. I drove to Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant for a late lunch.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine with an Italian twist at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant on beautiful Yakushima Island.
I was eager to sample the local specialty. The restaurant was small and cozy, and I was immediately greeted with warm hospitality. I decided to try the flying fish hitsumabushi, a dish similar to teriyaki, with chopped kabayaki flying fish on rice. It was delicious and the staff was very kind. It was a perfect way to refuel after a day of hiking.

As evening approached, I found myself drawn to Cafe＆Bar RainTree.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.
While I don't usually frequent bars on my solo trips, the promise of karaoke and a unique atmosphere was too intriguing to pass up. The bar was lively, filled with locals and tourists alike. I enjoyed a drink and listened to the music, soaking in the island's nightlife. While I didn't participate in the karaoke, I enjoyed watching others belt out their favorite tunes. It was a fun and unexpected way to end the day.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I made a mental note of tomorrow's itinerary: Jōmon Sugi and Sandaisugi Cedar. I'm looking forward to seeing the island's oldest and largest cedar trees, a fitting continuation of today's journey into Yakushima's ancient heart.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that Yakushima is more than just a beautiful island; it's a place that touches the soul. The ancient forests, the towering cedars, the whispers of nature – they all combine to create an experience that is both humbling and inspiring. It's a reminder of the power and resilience of nature, and the importance of preserving these precious places for future generations.

Back at my guesthouse, I felt a sense of peace and contentment. I was grateful for the opportunity to experience Yakushima's magic, to walk among the ancient giants and listen to the whispers of the forest. As I drifted off to sleep, I dreamt of moss-covered rocks and heart-shaped skies, eager for another day of exploration in this enchanting realm.