Cultural Adventures in Kyoto with Hans

Echoes of Emperors and Shoguns

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Today was a journey back in time, tracing the footsteps of emperors and shoguns through the heart of Kyoto. From the serene gardens to the opulent castles, every corner whispered tales of power, tradition, and the ever-changing tides of history. It was a day of contrasts, witnessing both the simplicity of imperial life and the imposing grandeur of shogunate rule.

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Our day began with a hearty breakfast at The Cellar Kyoto. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, while Hans, ever the adventurous one, chose the Western-style pancakes. Fuelled up, we set off to our first destination: the Kyoto Imperial Palace.


Explore the historical elegance and natural beauty of Kyoto Imperial Palace, a cultural landmark reflecting Japan's royal history.
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The Kyoto Imperial Palace, or Kyoto Gosho, was the residence of Japan's Imperial Family until 1868 when the capital was moved to Tokyo. Walking through the vast grounds, I couldn't help but feel a sense of reverence. The palace itself is a picture of understated elegance, built in the traditional architectural style, with its cypress-bark roofs and unpainted wooden structures. It's far from ostentatious, but there's a quiet dignity about it that speaks volumes about the emperor's historical role.

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Wandering through the Shishinden, the main hall for ceremonies, I imagined emperors seated on the throne, receiving dignitaries and issuing decrees. The simple yet refined beauty of the Seiryoden, the emperor's living quarters, offered a glimpse into their daily life. It was interesting to note how close the palace is to Kyoto Gyoen National Garden. I could imagine the emperors and their court enjoying the serene nature just outside their doorstep. As someone who appreciates both history and nature, I found this blend particularly appealing.

Explore the tranquil beauty of Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, a historic park offering stunning landscapes and a glimpse into Japan's rich cultural heritage.
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After soaking in the imperial atmosphere, we strolled through the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, which surrounds the palace. This expansive park is a green oasis in the middle of the city, a welcome respite from the urban bustle. The garden is meticulously maintained, with gravel paths winding through groves of trees and manicured lawns. Although it's May, and the peak cherry blossom season had passed, there were still some late-blooming varieties adding splashes of color to the landscape. I read that in mid-March you can see both plum and peach blossoms at the same time. I also learned that the Aoi Matsuri festival is held here every year on May 15th. It would be amazing to see that parade!

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We took a leisurely walk, enjoying the fresh air and the peaceful ambiance. I spotted locals picnicking under the trees, families playing games, and couples strolling hand-in-hand. It was a beautiful reminder that even in a city steeped in history, life continues to unfold in the present moment.

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History is not just about the past; it's about understanding the present and shaping the future.

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For lunch, we headed to Katsukura - Kyoto Porta, drawn in by the promise of authentic tonkatsu. And it did not disappoint! The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to savor the crispy, golden-brown pork cutlets. I opted for the classic tonkatsu set, while Hans went for the prawn and tenderloin cutlet combination. The pork was succulent, the breading perfectly crisp, and the tonkatsu sauce added a tangy sweetness that elevated the dish to another level. I especially loved that you could grind your own sesame seeds for the sauce!

Discover authentic Tonkatsu at Katsukura - a must-visit Japanese restaurant in Kyoto offering delightful flavors in a modern setting.
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With our bellies full and our spirits high, we made our way to Nijō Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site that served as the Kyoto residence of the Tokugawa shoguns during the Edo period. This was a stark contrast to the understated elegance of the Imperial Palace. Nijō Castle was built to impress, a symbol of the shogun's power and authority.

Experience the grandeur of Nijō Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where history, architecture, and nature intertwine in Kyoto's cultural heart.
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The castle is divided into three areas: the Honmaru (main circle of defense), the Ninomaru (secondary circle of defense), and the gardens. We began our exploration at the Ninomaru Palace, the main attraction of the castle. Stepping inside was like stepping back in time. The palace consists of multiple separate buildings connected by corridors with the famous nightingale floors, designed to chirp when stepped upon to alert the shogun to any intruders. The squeaky floors were definitely working, as every step we took echoed through the palace!

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The rooms were adorned with tatami mats, decorated ceilings, and beautifully painted sliding doors (fusuma). I could imagine the shogun holding court here, surrounded by his advisors and samurai. The opulence of the palace was a clear display of the Tokugawa shogunate's wealth and influence. It was fascinating to learn that this was the site where the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, officially returned political power to Emperor Meiji, marking the end of the shogunate rule and the beginning of the Meiji era.

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After exploring the Ninomaru Palace, we wandered through the Ninomaru Garden, a traditional Japanese landscape garden with a large pond, ornamental stones, and meticulously manicured pine trees. The garden offered a tranquil escape from the grandeur of the palace. We also explored the Honmaru, which once housed a second palace complex and a five-story castle keep. Unfortunately, both structures were destroyed by fires in the 18th century and were never rebuilt. Today, an imperial residence moved from the Kyoto Imperial Palace stands in its place.

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As the sun began to set, we made our way to Hafuu for dinner, a renowned restaurant specializing in exquisite meat dishes. The restaurant is tucked away in a quiet residential area, close to the Imperial Palace. It was a mix of traditional and contemporary, with wooden walls, beautiful art and light fixtures. I had read a review that mentioned the chef has been working there for 18 years! That's always a good sign!

Discover Hafuu in Kyoto: where premium Japanese beef meets culinary excellence in an elegant setting.
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We decided to indulge in the tasting menu, eager to sample the chef's creations. Each course was a culinary masterpiece, showcasing the versatility of beef in various forms. From the lightly roasted beef appetizer to the melt-in-your-mouth fillet steak, every dish was bursting with flavor and cooked to perfection. Hans particularly enjoyed the thinly sliced brisket with salt-based sauce, raving about its smoky flavor. I savored the sweetness of the fat and the density of the meat. It was rich and decadent! We finished off the night with beautiful desserts, each unique and delightful.

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To end the day, we decided to check out Bar K6, known for its sophisticated atmosphere and expertly crafted cocktails. We settled into a cozy corner, sipping on our drinks and reflecting on the day's adventures. The bar had a wide selection of whiskey and seasonal cocktails. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring Kyoto's historical landmarks.

Discover the vibrant nightlife of Kyoto at Bar K6, where traditional Japanese drinks meet modern bar culture in a cozy setting.
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As I write this, I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's itinerary: Heian Shrine, Philosopher's Path, and Nanzen-ji. I'm especially excited about the Philosopher's Path, a scenic canal-side walk that promises to be a feast for the senses. I also saw that there is a Kyoto Station ASTY Kyoto Kyoani Goods Store. I think Hans would enjoy that.

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Until tomorrow, sayōnara!