Art and Adventure on Naoshima Island: A Cultural Journey with Friends

Island of Pumpkins and Culinary Delights

Today was all about embracing the quirky and captivating art scene of Naoshima, and let me tell you, it didn't disappoint! From iconic pumpkin sculptures to hidden culinary gems, every corner of this island seems to whisper a story of creativity and innovation. It felt like stepping into a living art exhibit, where the boundaries between reality and imagination blurred with each passing moment.

Our day began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. Tucked away near the Ando Museum, this charming café had the feel of a traditional Japanese home. I opted for their vegan breakfast set, which was as delicious as it was nourishing. Hans, ever the traditionalist, enjoyed a strong coffee and a slice of their homemade cake. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring. I made a mental note to try to recreate some of their dishes back in Bonn – perhaps a little taste of Naoshima could brighten up our German kitchen!


Discover Café Ippo in Naoshima: A delightful fusion of authentic Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality awaits you in this charming café.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set off to Miyanoura Port, where the first splash of art awaited us: Yayoi Kusama's Red Pumpkin. It's hard to miss this vibrant sculpture, its red hue and black polka dots standing out against the backdrop of the sea and sky. It was amazing to step inside and experience the world through Kusama's eyes, the dotted apertures framing the scenery in a whimsical, slightly disorienting way. I couldn't help but think about Kusama's words, how she confronts the spirit of the pumpkin, forgetting everything else and concentrating her mind entirely on the form before her. I tried to do the same, letting the island's energy wash over me.


Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

Art is an endless struggle, art is love, art is life.

Next up was the Yellow Pumpkin, located near the Benesse House Museum. This one was equally striking, though in a different way. Perched at the end of a pier, it seemed to be gazing out at the horizon, a symbol of the island's unique blend of art and nature. I learned that this particular pumpkin was created for an outdoor exhibition in 1994 and has remained a permanent fixture ever since, embodying the island's philosophy of symbiosis between nature, architecture, and art. It was truly inspiring to see how art can transform a place, turning a sleepy island into a world-renowned destination for art lovers.


Discover the iconic Yellow Pumpkin in Naoshima, a vibrant sculpture by Yayoi Kusama, blending contemporary art with stunning coastal views.

For lunch, we decided to try EAT LOCAL 直島食堂, and it was a fantastic choice. We enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties. The restaurant’s commitment to using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients really shone through in every dish. Hans particularly enjoyed the *shirasu-don* (whitebait rice bowl), while I savored the flavors of the Seto Inland Sea in my seafood teishoku. It was a perfect midday refuel, and the friendly atmosphere made it all the more enjoyable.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at EAT LOCAL 直島食堂 on Naoshima Island, where fresh seafood meets local flavors in a cozy atmosphere.

After lunch, we did a bit of souvenir shopping at Mikazukishoten. This charming little shop had a great selection of local crafts and snacks. I picked up some postcards to send to my family back in the Seychelles and a small *tenugui* (Japanese hand towel) with a Naoshima-inspired design. Hans, of course, gravitated towards the coffee selection, and we ended up buying a bag of their original blend to take back to Bonn. Apparently, the owner had been watching the Japanese fashion scene for many years when he met one of the leaders of the Japanese coffee business, and was so fascinated by his coffee, he decided to open a specialty coffee stand on Naoshima Island! It's stories like these that make traveling so enriching.


Discover the perfect blend of exquisite coffee and unique souvenirs at Mikazukishoten in Naoshima, a true gem for art and coffee lovers alike.

As the sun began to set, we made our way to Cin.na.mon for dinner. This cozy restaurant, recommended for its Naoshima curry, did not disappoint. The interior had an elegant wooden wall, creating a relaxed mood. I opted for the Naoshima curry, made with plenty of fresh local seafood, while Hans chose the yellowtail *sashimi*. Both were exceptional, the flavors of the sea dancing on our palates. We even treated ourselves to a couple of their homemade cakes for dessert, the perfect end to a perfect meal.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors in an artistic setting at Cin.na.mon, Naoshima's charming café and restaurant.

To cap off the evening, we ventured to Bar SARU, the only bar on Naoshima that stays open late. It was moved to Miyanoura from Honmura area. The bar had a cozy, homely atmosphere. Hans enjoyed a local Naoshima beer, while I sipped on a *Setouchi Lemon Mojito*. We chatted with some fellow travelers, sharing stories and laughter. The bar's reggae rhythms added to the laid-back vibe, making it the perfect place to unwind after a day of art and exploration. Although I was tempted to try their pizzas, I was still full from dinner.


Experience the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local flavors and a lively atmosphere await every visitor.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that Naoshima is more than just an island of art; it's a place where creativity thrives, where local traditions are celebrated, and where visitors are welcomed with open arms. The combination of world-class art, delicious food, and friendly people makes it a truly unforgettable destination. It reminded me of the Seychelles in some ways, the sense of community and the connection to nature. Perhaps that's why I felt so at home here.

Tomorrow, we are planning to visit the Seaside Gallery and Shipyard Works By Shinro Otake. I am also hoping to try the Okonomiyaki Umikko for lunch and Yayoda for dinner. And of course, we'll be checking out the Cafe Salon Nakaoku for a nightcap.

Good night from Naoshima, and until tomorrow!