An Enchanting Escape to Matera: Discovering Italy's Hidden Gem

Day 3: Whispers of the Past: Unearthing Ancient Echoes in Matera

Step back in time and explore Matera's Crypt of Original Sin, the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, and breathtaking views from Belvedere.

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A Day Among Echoes of Eternity


Today was a day of delving deep into Matera’s ancient soul. It felt as though the very stones were whispering stories of centuries past, each site offering a unique glimpse into the lives and beliefs of those who came before us. Jean-Pierre and I set out early, eager to absorb all that this incredible city had to offer. From hidden crypts adorned with ancient art to panoramic views that stretched across the timeless landscape, it was a day that truly resonated with my love for history and culture.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Basquiat. I opted for a simple yet satisfying cornetto and cappuccino, while Jean-Pierre, ever the traditionalist, chose a slice of Matera bread with local honey. Fueled up, we were ready to explore the wonders that awaited us.

Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Basquiat in Matera – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.
Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Basquiat in Matera – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.

Our first stop was the Crypt of Original Sin, often referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Rupestrian Art.” The drive there was beautiful, winding through the countryside with views of rolling hills and ancient olive groves. The crypt itself is located in a natural cave and is a truly remarkable place. Discovered in 1963, the Crypt of Original Sin is a rock church founded by the Benedictines. After a long period of neglect, it is difficult to define its original structure. Inside, the frescoes dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries are breathtaking. Painted by an artist known as the “Painter of Flowers of Matera”, the frescoes depict scenes from the Bible, including the creation story and, of course, the original sin. The artistry is incredible, especially considering the age and the fact that they were painted in a cave. It's hard to believe that these paintings have survived for over a thousand years. The guide explained the history and significance of each fresco, pointing out details that we might have missed. The experience was both humbling and awe-inspiring, a testament to the enduring power of art and faith. I found myself particularly drawn to the depictions of the archangels, their serene faces radiating a sense of timeless wisdom. It was a truly unique and unforgettable experience.

Explore the Crypt of Original Sin in Matera, Italy - a stunning historical landmark with breathtaking frescoes and deep cultural significance.
Explore the Crypt of Original Sin in Matera, Italy - a stunning historical landmark with breathtaking frescoes and deep cultural significance.

To stand within the Crypt of Original Sin is to witness a dialogue between humanity and divinity, painted across the millennia on the canvas of stone.


Next on our itinerary was the Church of Saint Mary of Idris. Carved into the limestone rock of Monterrone, it dominates the Sasso Caveoso. The church can be reached via stairs to the rock Church of Santa Lucia alle Malve. The name "Idris" is derived from the Greek "Odigitria," meaning "who shows the way". The location of the church is simply stunning, offering panoramic views of Matera's ancient cave dwellings. As we climbed the steps leading to the entrance, I couldn't help but marvel at the ingenuity of those who built this church into the rock face. The facade of masonry, with its small bell tower, was a charming contrast to the rugged stone surroundings. Inside, the nave was uneven, a testament to the church's ancient origins. Although some of the frescoes had been removed for restoration, those that remained were beautiful, depicting various religious scenes and figures. I was particularly struck by a 17th-century tempera rendering of the Madonna and Child on the altar. The church is connected to the crypt of San Giovanni in Monterrone via a tunnel, which we eagerly explored. The crypt held numerous frescoes from the 12th to the 17th century, each telling its own story. In the access tunnel, we saw a fresco of John the Baptist, and in a lunette above the crypt, a 12th-century Christ Pantocrator. The visit to the Church of Saint Mary of Idris felt like stepping back in time, a journey through centuries of art and faith.

Explore the historical and architectural wonder of the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, a spiritual gem in the heart of Matera, Italy.
Explore the historical and architectural wonder of the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, a spiritual gem in the heart of Matera, Italy.

After immersing ourselves in the spiritual and artistic wonders of the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, our appetites were calling. We headed to La Lopa for lunch, a restaurant known for its traditional Lucanian cuisine. I decided on the *cavatelli con ceci*, a hearty pasta dish with chickpeas, while Jean-Pierre opted for the *baccalà*, salt cod prepared in a local style. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. We chatted with the owner about the history of Matera and the challenges of preserving its cultural heritage. It was a delightful interlude, a chance to savor the flavors of the region and connect with the local community.

Experience authentic Italian flavors at La Lopa in Matera - where tradition meets culinary excellence in a unique cave setting.
Experience authentic Italian flavors at La Lopa in Matera - where tradition meets culinary excellence in a unique cave setting.

Our final stop of the day was the Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli. This observation deck offers breathtaking views of the Sassi di Matera. Walking from the city center, we took Via dell'Indipendenza, then turned onto Via Annunziatella, which led directly to the Piazzetta Pascoli. The walk was about 10-15 minutes and offered beautiful views of the Sassi di Matera along the way. As we stood at the belvedere, the entire city stretched out before us, a sea of stone buildings bathed in the warm afternoon light. It was a truly awe-inspiring sight. I took numerous photos, trying to capture the beauty and grandeur of the scene. Jean-Pierre simply stood in silence, soaking it all in. We stayed there for a long time, watching as the shadows lengthened and the sky began to turn golden. It was the perfect way to end our day of exploration, a moment of quiet contemplation amidst the ancient beauty of Matera.

Discover the captivating views at Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli, Matera's premier observation deck with stunning panoramas of the ancient city.
Discover the captivating views at Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli, Matera's premier observation deck with stunning panoramas of the ancient city.

Before dinner, we popped into a Matera gift shop. I wanted to find a small souvenir to remind me of our time here. I settled on a handcrafted ceramic *fischietto*, a traditional whistle shaped like a bird. Jean-Pierre bought a small book about the history of Matera, eager to learn more about this fascinating city.

Explore the authentic charm of Matera with unique handcrafted gifts and local delicacies at this enchanting gift shop.
Explore the authentic charm of Matera with unique handcrafted gifts and local delicacies at this enchanting gift shop.

For dinner, we had reservations at Dimora Ulmo ristorante. The restaurant is located in a beautifully restored historic building and offers a modern take on traditional Lucanian cuisine. I started with the *peperoni cruschi*, crispy dried peppers, a local specialty, followed by the *agnello*, lamb, with roasted vegetables. Jean-Pierre chose the *strascinati*, a type of hand-rolled pasta, with a rich meat sauce. The food was exquisite, and the service was impeccable. As we savored our meal, we reflected on the incredible day we had experienced. From the ancient art of the Crypt of Original Sin to the panoramic views from Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli, Matera had captured our hearts and imaginations. As we walked back to Hotel San Giorgio Matera, the city was quiet and peaceful. The stars were out, and the air was filled with the scent of jasmine. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience such a unique and beautiful place. I am already looking forward to tomorrow, where we plan to explore the Parco Regionale della Murgia Materana and Gravina di Matera. I've heard the landscapes are stunning, and I can't wait to see them for myself. I am also hoping we can visit AREA 8, for a drink in the evening. Good night from Matera!

Discover the charm of Matera at Hotel San Giorgio, where comfort meets convenience. Enjoy free Wi-Fi, family-friendly amenities, and local attractions.
Discover the charm of Matera at Hotel San Giorgio, where comfort meets convenience. Enjoy free Wi-Fi, family-friendly amenities, and local attractions.

Go to day 2 Whispers of the Past: Unveiling Matera's Ancient Soul
Go to day 4 Stepping Back in Time: Exploring Matera's Ancient Wonders
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An Enchanting Escape to Matera: Discovering Italy's Hidden Gem

Explore the ancient allure of Matera, Italy, with its historic Sassi cave dwellings and charming streets, perfect for a romantic getaway.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

Mary Sullivan
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Freelance Translator
  • Country icon Country: France
  • Age icon Age: 33

Bonjour, world! I'm Mary, a freelance translator and travel enthusiast originally from the USA, now living in beautiful Lyon, France, with my husband, Jean-Pierre. I've always had a passion for languages and exploring new cultures. Through this blog, I share my travel experiences, tips for budget-friendly adventures, and insights into culturally immersive travel. Join me as I uncover hidden gems, savor delicious food, and connect with amazing people around the globe!

Interests:
  • Linguistics
  • Cultural Anthropology
  • Sustainable Living
  • Foreign Films
  • History
More about Mary Sullivan

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    Discover the charm of Matera at Hotel San Giorgio, where comfort meets convenience. Enjoy free Wi-Fi, family-friendly amenities, and local attractions.

  • Crypt of Original Sin

    Explore the Crypt of Original Sin in Matera, Italy - a stunning historical landmark with breathtaking frescoes and deep cultural significance.

  • Church of Saint Mary of Idris

    Explore the historical and architectural wonder of the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, a spiritual gem in the heart of Matera, Italy.

  • Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli

    Discover the captivating views at Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli, Matera's premier observation deck with stunning panoramas of the ancient city.

  • Basquiat

    Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Basquiat in Matera – where tradition meets modern culinary artistry.

  • La Lopa

    Experience authentic Italian flavors at La Lopa in Matera - where tradition meets culinary excellence in a unique cave setting.

  • Dimora Ulmo ristorante

    Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Dimora Ulmo in Matera - where culinary artistry meets breathtaking views.

  • Matera gift shop

    Explore the authentic charm of Matera with unique handcrafted gifts and local delicacies at this enchanting gift shop.

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