Solo Adventure in Shirakawa-go: Discovering Japan's Timeless Beauty

Spiritual Sanctuaries and Village Charms

Day two in Shirakawa-go was all about diving deeper into the cultural and spiritual heart of this enchanting village. Today, I explored ancient temples, serene shrines, and, of course, indulged in the local culinary delights. It's amazing how much history and tradition is packed into this small, picturesque place.

The day began with a hearty breakfast at Shiawaseya Kichibei. I enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast set, which included grilled fish, miso soup, rice, and various pickled vegetables. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. The flavors were so authentic and comforting, a great start to immerse myself in the local culture.


Experience authentic local cuisine at Shiawaseya Kichibei in Shirakawa-go, where tradition meets convenience amidst stunning scenery.

Myozenji Museum: A Glimpse into the Past

After breakfast, I made my way to the Myozenji Museum. This museum is housed in what was once the living quarters of the head priest of the Myozenji Temple, offering a unique glimpse into the lives of the village's religious leaders. The building itself is a stunning example of gassho-zukuri architecture, and it's one of the few in the area with plastered earthen walls, making it more resistant to fire.


Immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Shirakawa-go at Myozenji Museum, a local history gem showcasing traditional Japanese lifestyle.

Inside, I wandered through the various rooms, each filled with artifacts and displays showcasing the traditional way of life in Shirakawa-go. From farming tools to kitchen utensils, everything was meticulously preserved, providing a tangible connection to the past. The museum also gave me a close-up view of the intricate roof structure, secured with straw ropes and bindings made of witch hazel saplings.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Myozenji Museum was the irori fireplace in the main living room. This central hearth was the heart of the home, where the family gathered to eat, socialize, and stay warm during the harsh winters. I could almost imagine the priest and his family sitting around the fire, sharing stories and meals. The museum also displayed a hiama, a wooden board hung above the fireplace to extinguish sparks and dissipate smoke, a clever and practical design.

Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller. – Ibn Battuta

After exploring the living quarters, I ventured into the main hall of the Myozenji Temple. The interior was ornately decorated, reflecting the Jodo Shinshu Buddhist tradition. The landscape paintings on the walls, many depicting Mount Fuji, were particularly striking, adding to the serene atmosphere of the temple.

Before leaving, I took a moment to appreciate the yew tree planted to commemorate the main hall's completion in 1827, a designated Natural Monument of Gifu Prefecture. It was a peaceful spot, perfect for reflection and gratitude.

Hatotani Hachiman Shrine: A Spiritual Retreat

Next on my itinerary was the Hatotani Hachiman Shrine, one of the oldest places of reverence in Shirakawa. Getting there involved a short bus ride from the Shirakawa-go bus terminal, followed by a pleasant ten-minute walk. The shrine is nestled amidst rolling hills and lush greenery, offering a tranquil escape from the village's busier areas.


Explore the serene Hatotani Hachiman Shrine in Shirakawa, Gifu, a peaceful retreat that showcases Japan's spiritual heritage amidst breathtaking nature.

As I approached the shrine, I immediately felt a sense of serenity. The torii gate marked the boundary between the secular and the sacred, and beyond it lay several natural features believed to have played a role in ancient nature worship. A rock formation in front of the worship hall served as a yorishiro, an object capable of attracting a deity, while giant Japanese cedar trees were also thought to have been used as yorishiro.

I learned that the shrine's original deity was likely the god of water, synonymous with the deity of nearby Mount Haku. Prayers for rain were made here, highlighting the importance of water to the local community. It wasn't until the sixteenth century that the shrine became associated with Hachiman, the guardian deity of the warrior class.

The shrine grounds were peaceful, with opportunities for scenic walks and deeper immersion in the region's natural beauty. I made sure to follow local customs, offering a small donation and taking an omikuji (fortune slip) to gain a deeper understanding of the local culture and religious practices. The experience was a reminder of the harmony between nature and spirituality that is central to Japanese culture.

Lunch at Tanaka-ya: Soba Noodles with a View

By lunchtime, I was ready for another culinary adventure, so I headed to Tanaka-ya, a soba noodle shop known for its freshly made soba and traditional atmosphere. The restaurant is housed in a charming thatched-roof building with a traditional sunken fireplace, adding to its rustic appeal.


Experience the essence of Japan at Tanaka-ya, where handmade soba noodles meet breathtaking views in Shirakawa-go.

I ordered a bowl of chilled soba noodles served with a dipping sauce, a perfect choice for the warm summer day. The noodles were made from locally sourced ingredients, reflecting the region's rich agricultural heritage. The delicate texture and nutty flavor of the buckwheat noodles were simply divine, and the serene environment, with its views of the surrounding landscape, made the meal even more enjoyable.

Dinner at Gassho: Traditional Cuisine in a Gassho-style Building

For dinner, I decided to indulge in a truly authentic experience at Gassho, a restaurant serving traditional Shirakawa-go cuisine. Gassho is located in a gassho-style building, adding to the charm and ambiance of the dining experience.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Gassho in Shirakawa - where tradition meets taste in a picturesque setting.

I opted for the Hida beef grilled with Hoba miso, a local specialty. The A5-ranked Hida beef was incredibly tender and flavorful, and the homemade Hoba miso added a unique, savory-sweet taste. The meal was served with Koshihikari rice, grown locally with reduced pesticides, and other local dishes, providing a true taste of the region. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, with an open hearth (irori) adding to the traditional Japanese ambiance.

Evening Drinks at Shiraogi: A Taste of Local Sake

To end the day, I ventured to Shiraogi for a taste of local sake. This charming spot is known for serving teishoku (set meals) made with locally sourced ingredients like river fish and mountain vegetables.


Discover the authentic flavors of Japan at Shiraogi, a charming restaurant in Shirakawa offering traditional Syokudo and Teishoku meals.

I sampled a few different varieties of sake, each with its own distinct flavor profile. The friendly staff were happy to share their knowledge of the local brews, making the experience even more enjoyable. It was a relaxing way to reflect on the day's adventures and soak in the peaceful atmosphere of Shirakawa-go.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Midorigaike Pond and the Ogimachi village, continuing my journey through this captivating region. I'm also hoping to find some unique souvenirs at Kinu Yukari. Each day here brings new discoveries and deeper appreciation for the timeless beauty and cultural richness of Shirakawa-go.

I am so glad I decided to come here solo. It gives me time to reflect on my life back in Lyon with Jean-Pierre and the quiet life we have built. I am also looking forward to sharing my experiences with him and perhaps plan a trip back together in the future. I know he would love the Hida beef!