Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Enchanted by Emerald: A Day in Kokemusu Forest

Today, I ventured into a realm that felt both ancient and eternally young – the Kokemusu Forest. It was a day of quiet wonder, a symphony of greens and whispers that resonated deep within my soul. This wasn't just a hike; it was an immersion into a world where nature reigns supreme, and time seems to slow to a gentle, moss-covered crawl.


Explore the ancient beauty of Kokemusu Forest in Yakushima, a hiker's paradise filled with towering cedars and breathtaking landscapes.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. Fueling up with a traditional Japanese breakfast set me up perfectly for the day's adventure. The restaurant's convenient location made it an ideal starting point before heading deep into the island's interior.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine at Yakushima Airport Restaurant - where flavor meets nature's beauty.

After breakfast, I headed towards the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine, home to the famed Kokemusu Forest. The drive itself was a scenic prelude, winding through lush landscapes and offering glimpses of Yakushima's majestic mountains. As I approached the trailhead, the air grew cooler, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient cedar.

The Kokemusu Forest, often referred to as the Moss Forest, is a realm of ethereal beauty. As I stepped onto the trail, I was immediately enveloped by a sea of green. Moss blankets every surface – rocks, roots, and the gnarled trunks of ancient Yakusugi cedar trees. Sunlight filters through the canopy, casting dappled patterns on the forest floor, illuminating the vibrant hues of emerald, jade, and forest green.

The trails were well-maintained, making the hike accessible, yet challenging enough to feel like a proper adventure. I chose the Taikoiwa Round Trip Course, which promised the most immersive experience of the Moss Forest. With each step, I felt as though I was walking through a living tapestry, woven with the threads of centuries past. The air was thick with moisture, and the silence was broken only by the gentle drip of water and the occasional call of a hidden bird.

The forest interior is varied and wondrous, offering an uplifting experience no matter your level of fitness. Feeling the forest is, on Yakushima, the entire point.

I paused frequently, camera in hand, trying to capture the essence of this magical place. Every angle revealed a new composition, a new play of light and shadow. I found myself drawn to the intricate details – the delicate patterns of moss on a fallen log, the unfurling fronds of ferns, and the gnarled branches of the ancient cedars reaching towards the sky. I made sure to have extra memory cards for my camera, learning from my mistake of almost forgetting them!

It's easy to see why this forest is said to have inspired Hayao Miyazaki's *Princess Mononoke*. The Kokemusu Forest feels like a world untouched by time, a sanctuary where the spirits of nature still roam free. The sheer density of the moss, the ancient trees, and the overall sense of serenity create an atmosphere that is both awe-inspiring and deeply humbling.

After spending several hours exploring the forest, I made my way to the Yakushima Gallery Restaurant for a late lunch. The restaurant offered a welcome respite, with its tranquil ambiance and delicious local cuisine. I savored a set meal featuring fresh seafood and locally sourced vegetables, reflecting on the day's adventures.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

In the late afternoon, I decided to do some shopping at Yakushima BLESS. This shop is known for its sustainable practices, utilizing Yakusugi cedar in unique and beautiful ways. I picked up a few small souvenirs, mindful of supporting local artisans and their commitment to preserving the island's natural resources. It was interesting to learn that the shop is a modern take on the Takeda Pavilion, which was opened in 1903 by the wife's grandmother of the current chairman, focusing on forestry with the Yakusugi Cedar. It's inspiring to see how they've adapted to focus on environmental sustainability.


Explore Yakushima Bless: A vibrant shopping mall showcasing local artistry, traditional crafts, and unique souvenirs from the beautiful island of Yakushima.

As evening approached, I found myself at DINING CAFE BAR SLOW for dinner. The restaurant lived up to its name, offering a relaxed and inviting atmosphere. I savored a delicious meal of handmade pasta, made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The cozy ambiance and friendly service made it the perfect ending to a day of exploration and reflection.


Experience authentic Italian cuisine at Dining Cafe Bar Slow in Yakushima – where fresh ingredients meet stunning natural beauty.

Looking back on my time in Kokemusu Forest, I'm reminded of why I love solo travel so much. It allows me to fully immerse myself in the present moment, to connect with nature on a deeper level, and to discover hidden corners of my own soul. The solitude of the forest, the whispers of the ancient trees, and the gentle rhythm of nature created a space for contemplation and renewal.

During my hike, I was reflecting on a conversation I had with Liam before leaving for this trip. We were discussing the importance of slowing down and appreciating the simple things in life. He reminded me of a quote by John Muir:

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

This quote resonated deeply with my experience in the Kokemusu Forest. I came seeking beauty and serenity, but I received so much more – a deeper connection with nature, a sense of inner peace, and a renewed appreciation for the wonders of the natural world.

As I prepare for tomorrow's adventures, I'm filled with anticipation. The itinerary includes a visit to the Yakushima Sea Turtle Hall and the Yakushima Fruit Garden – “Papaya no Sato”. I'm particularly excited about the Sea Turtle Hall, as I've always been fascinated by these gentle creatures. And who knows, maybe I'll find some inspiration for a new photography project amidst the papayas!

Yakushima continues to surprise and delight me at every turn. It's a place where nature's beauty is both grand and intimate, where ancient forests meet modern sensibilities, and where solo travel becomes a journey of self-discovery. I am so glad I chose to come here. I do miss Liam, but I know that he would be so happy that I am fulfilling my dreams and passions here on this magical island. It's these moments of quiet reflection that make travel so enriching, reminding me of the importance of slowing down, connecting with nature, and embracing the beauty that surrounds us.

Before heading back to my guesthouse for the night, I took a moment to reflect on the day. The scent of the forest still clung to my clothes, and the images of moss-covered trees danced in my mind. It was a day of quiet beauty, a reminder that sometimes the greatest adventures are found in the simplest of moments. I am truly grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

I'm already looking forward to sharing more of my adventures with you all. Until then, may your own journeys be filled with wonder and discovery.

P.S. I almost forgot to mention the insect repellent! The mosquitoes in the forest were quite persistent, and I definitely regretted not having any with me. Lesson learned for tomorrow!

Also, I am still kicking myself for forgetting to pack extra memory cards for my camera! I managed to make do with what I had, but it was a close call. I'll definitely be more prepared for tomorrow's adventures!