Exploring the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of Time: A Pilgrimage to Yakushima's Ancient Cedars

Today, I embarked on a journey that felt like stepping back in time. The air was thick with the scent of damp earth and ancient wood, the kind of atmosphere that humbles you and makes you feel incredibly small. My mission? To witness the legendary Jōmon Sugi and Daio Sugi, two of Yakushima's most venerable trees. It was a day of challenging hikes, breathtaking vistas, and profound connection with nature.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley, a cozy little spot where the locals gather. I fueled up with a traditional Japanese breakfast – grilled fish, miso soup, and rice – enough to power me through the long day ahead. The staff were incredibly friendly, offering tips and advice for navigating the trails. It always amazes me how a good meal and friendly faces can set the tone for an entire day.

The hike to Jōmon Sugi is not for the faint of heart. It's a solid ten-hour round trip, and the terrain is a mix of well-maintained paths and rugged, rocky climbs. As I ascended, the forest canopy closed in, creating a cathedral-like atmosphere. Sunlight filtered through the leaves, casting dappled shadows on the moss-covered ground. The sound of rushing water echoed through the trees, a constant reminder of the island's abundant rainfall.

I soon realized that my trusty hiking boots were my best friends today. I was grateful I remembered to bring them, unlike that portable phone charger I left back in Heidelberg. Klaus would have reminded me, I am sure. He always makes sure I pack everything I need. The trail wound its way through a landscape that seemed plucked from a fairy tale. Towering Yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, stood like silent sentinels, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The forest floor was a carpet of vibrant green moss, punctuated by the occasional burst of color from wildflowers.

Along the way, I passed fellow hikers, a mix of Japanese tourists and international adventurers, all drawn to this remote island by the promise of natural beauty. We exchanged smiles and words of encouragement, united by our shared quest to witness the ancient giants. I even met a lovely couple from Australia who were equally captivated by the island's charm. It's moments like these that remind me why I love solo travel – the opportunity to connect with people from all walks of life.

After several hours of trekking, I finally reached Jōmon Sugi. And what a sight it was! Estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, this colossal cedar stands as a testament to the enduring power of nature. Its massive trunk, scarred by centuries of storms and weathering, exuded an aura of wisdom and resilience. I stood in awe, gazing up at its towering presence, feeling a sense of profound humility. It was more than just a tree; it was a living monument to time itself.

In the presence of such ancient beings, you can't help but feel a connection to something larger than yourself, a sense of belonging to the grand tapestry of life.

I spent a good hour simply sitting at the observation deck, soaking in the atmosphere and sketching in my notebook. The air was cool and crisp, and the only sounds were the gentle rustling of leaves and the distant chirping of birds. I closed my eyes and imagined all the events this tree had witnessed over the millennia – the rise and fall of civilizations, the changing of seasons, the endless cycle of life and death. It was a truly humbling experience.

After paying my respects to Jōmon Sugi, I began the descent, my legs feeling the strain of the long hike. But the thought of seeing Daio Sugi kept me going. Daio Sugi, meaning the Great King Cedar, is another ancient giant, estimated to be around 3,000 years old. While not as old as Jōmon Sugi, it is equally impressive in its size and majesty.

By the time I reached the trailhead for Daio Sugi, the afternoon sun was beginning to dip below the horizon, casting long shadows across the forest. The trail to Daio Sugi is shorter and less strenuous than the one to Jōmon Sugi, but it still offered plenty of opportunities to admire the island's stunning scenery. I passed cascading waterfalls, crystal-clear streams, and lush groves of bamboo.

As I approached Daio Sugi, I could feel the energy of the place. This tree has a palpable presence, a sense of strength and resilience that radiates from its very core. I stood at its base, marveling at its massive trunk and its sprawling branches, feeling a sense of reverence and awe. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploring Yakushima's ancient forests.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by YAKUSHIMA BLESS, a local shop that sells handcrafted souvenirs made from Yakusugi wood. I picked up a small wooden carving of a cedar tree as a memento of my visit. It will be a lovely reminder of this magical island when I return to Heidelberg.

For lunch, I stopped at Il Mare, a charming Italian restaurant, which felt somewhat out of place on this remote island. But the pizza was delicious, and the view of the ocean was simply stunning. It was a welcome change of pace after a long day of hiking.

In the evening, I treated myself to a well-deserved dinner at Kamogawa Restaurant, known for its fresh seafood and traditional Japanese cuisine. I savored every bite of the grilled fish and the delicate flavors of the miso soup, reflecting on the day's adventures. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to sample Yakushima's culinary delights.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, the stars began to emerge, twinkling like diamonds in the inky sky. The air was filled with the sound of crickets chirping and the gentle lapping of waves against the shore. I felt a sense of peace and contentment wash over me, grateful for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima.

I am already looking forward to tomorrow, where I plan to visit the Senpiro Falls and Ryujin Falls. And perhaps, in the evening, I will try to find the Ambar bar, to celebrate a great day in Yakushima!

Tomorrow, I'm planning to explore more of Yakushima's natural wonders, including the breathtaking Senpiro Falls and the serene Ryujin Falls. I might even treat myself to a drink at Ambar bar in the evening, to celebrate another day of adventure on this magical island. For now, I'll rest my weary legs and dream of ancient cedars and cascading waterfalls. Gute Nacht!


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.


Explore Yakushima Bless: A vibrant shopping mall showcasing local artistry, traditional crafts, and unique souvenirs from the beautiful island of Yakushima.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Kamogawa Restaurant in picturesque Yakushima - where tradition meets culinary excellence.