Solo Cultural Exploration in Casamance

Coastal Calm and Avian Adventures in Abene

Today was a day of contrasts, a beautiful blend of serene village life and vibrant natural wonders. From the tranquil beaches of Abene to the bustling birdlife of the Kalissaye Avifaunal Reserve, Casamance continues to surprise and enchant me. It's a journey of discovery, not just of the land, but also of the soul.

My day began in Abene, a charming village nestled along the coast. After a restful night, I ventured out for breakfast at Chez Kia. The morning air was fresh and filled with the promise of a new day. Chez Kia was a delightful experience. The simplicity of the setting was part of its charm, a few tables under a shaded area, the sounds of the village waking up around me. I enjoyed a simple breakfast of fresh bread, local fruit, and strong, sweet coffee. It was the perfect way to start the day, fueling up for the adventures that lay ahead. I thought of Fatoumata and the kids back in Montreal, and how they would have loved the fresh mangoes. I made a mental note to try and recreate this breakfast for them when I get back, a little taste of Senegal in our Montreal kitchen.


Experience authentic Senegalese cuisine at Chez Kia in Ziguinchor - where every meal tells a story of flavor and tradition.
With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set out to explore Abene itself. The village exudes a relaxed, almost bohemian vibe. It's a place where time seems to slow down, where the rhythm of life is dictated by the ocean and the sun. As I wandered through the main street, I passed colorful shops selling everything from fruits and vegetables to handcrafted batik and wooden carvings. The locals were warm and welcoming, always ready with a smile and a friendly greeting. I even considered getting a custom-made shirt from one of the local tailors, a unique souvenir to remind me of my time here.

The beach in Abene is a sight to behold. A long stretch of pristine sand meets the azure waters of the Atlantic, creating a picture-perfect scene. I took a leisurely stroll along the shore, feeling the soft sand between my toes and the gentle breeze on my face. The beach was relatively empty, save for a few fishermen tending to their nets and some children playing in the waves. It was a moment of pure serenity, a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and simply be present in the moment.

The beauty of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in experiencing new perspectives.

After soaking up the sun and the sea breeze, it was time for lunch. I headed to Restaurant Le Kangoulenne, a local eatery known for its delicious Senegalese cuisine. I decided to try the Yassa, a traditional dish made with chicken or fish marinated in lemon, onions, and spices. The flavors were bold and vibrant, a true reflection of the local culture. As I savored each bite, I watched the world go by, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such authentic culinary delights.


Experience authentic Senegalese flavors at Restaurant Le Kangoulenne in Ziguinchor – where culinary tradition meets warm hospitality.
In the afternoon, I embarked on a journey to the Kalissaye Avifaunal Reserve. As a software developer, I spend most of my days indoors, staring at a screen. The thought of immersing myself in nature, surrounded by the sights and sounds of exotic birds, was incredibly appealing. The reserve is a small protected area located at the mouth of the Kalissaye Pond, right in the middle of the Casamance River. It was established in 1978 to safeguard sea turtle and seabird colonies.

Getting there was an adventure in itself. I hired a local guide who took me on a pirogue, a traditional Senegalese canoe, through the winding waterways of the Casamance River. The scenery was breathtaking. Lush mangrove forests lined the banks, their roots reaching deep into the water. The air was thick with humidity and the sounds of nature. It felt like stepping into another world, far removed from the digital landscapes I am so used to.

As we approached the reserve, the air filled with the sounds of birds. It was a symphony of chirps, tweets, and squawks, a testament to the incredible biodiversity of the area. The Kalissaye Avifaunal Reserve is home to a wide variety of bird species, including Caspian terns, royal terns, and great white pelicans. I was particularly excited to see the Caspian terns, as I had read about them in my research. Apparently, there used to be over 10,000 of them in the reserve during the 1980s.


Explore the Kalissaye Avifaunal Reserve in Nissi, Senegal, a premier destination for birdwatching and nature exploration, rich in biodiversity.
Unfortunately, due to the ongoing Casamance Conflict, the reserve is currently closed to visitors. This was a disappointment, but my guide assured me that we could still observe the birds from a distance. As we paddled along the edge of the reserve, I was able to catch glimpses of the magnificent birds soaring through the sky and nesting on the small sandy islands. It was a truly awe-inspiring sight, a reminder of the importance of protecting these fragile ecosystems. I made sure to take some pictures with my camera, though I wished I hadn't forgotten my extra memory cards!

After a fulfilling afternoon of birdwatching, it was time to head back to Abene. As the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the Casamance River, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. I had witnessed the beauty of nature, immersed myself in the local culture, and connected with the people of Casamance. It was a day that I would cherish forever.

Back in Abene, I decided to treat myself to dinner at La Cabane De Savana. This restaurant is known for its authentic Senegalese cuisine and its charming ambiance. I ordered a Thieboudienne, the national dish of Senegal, made with fish, rice, and vegetables cooked in a rich tomato sauce. It was a flavorful and satisfying meal, the perfect way to end a perfect day.


Experience authentic Senegalese cuisine at La Cabane De Savana in Cap Skirring – where local flavors meet warm hospitality.
Before calling it a night, I made a stop at Bar LE BAOBAB, a local watering hole where I enjoyed a refreshing Gazelle beer and listened to some live music. The atmosphere was lively and convivial, a mix of locals and tourists all enjoying the evening together. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures.


Discover the lively ambiance of Bar LE BAOBAB in Ziguinchor, where local culture and refreshing drinks combine for an unforgettable experience.
As I sit here now, writing in my travel journal, I can't help but feel a sense of contentment. Casamance has exceeded all my expectations. It's a region of stunning natural beauty, rich culture, and warm hospitality. I am so grateful for the opportunity to explore this hidden gem and share my experiences with you. Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Parc national de Basse Casamance and the Centre Touristique et Culturel Casamance. I am excited to continue my exploration of this fascinating region and discover even more of its hidden treasures.

I am also thinking about my family. I miss Fatoumata and the kids terribly. I know Aminata would have loved the colorful fabrics in the market, and Ibrahim would have been fascinated by the fishing boats. I am looking forward to sharing my stories and photos with them when I return. Perhaps one day, we can all come back to Casamance together and experience its magic as a family.

For now, I will continue to embrace the present moment, to soak up the beauty and the culture of Casamance, and to share my journey with you. Thank you for joining me on this adventure. Until tomorrow...