Solo Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

A Day of Shrines and Slopes

Today was a deep dive into the spiritual and cultural heart of the Kumano Kodo. I set out to explore ancient shrines and challenging slopes, and immerse myself in the local traditions. It was a day of reflection, physical exertion, and delightful discoveries.



The morning began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan. I savored traditional Japanese fare, fueling up for the day's adventures. The Omotenashi-Kan itself was charming, decorated in a way that felt both historical and welcoming. I enjoyed a flavorful mehari-zushi, though the mustard leaf was a bit strong for my taste. I also tried Niihime water, a local specialty made from a hybrid mandarin unique to Kumano, and a glass of 100% mandarin juice. It was the perfect start to a day filled with exploration.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

My first stop was Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a grand shrine located at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River. The shrine's vermillion-lacquered pavilion was striking against the lush greenery, and I spent some time wandering the grounds, taking in the serene atmosphere. The ancient Nagi tree, over 1,000 years old, stood majestically, and I joined other pilgrims in offering a prayer for safe travels and good fortune.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those that challenge us both physically and spiritually.

Next on the agenda was the Koyazaka Slope, an ancient path that once connected Shingu to Mt. Nachi. The hike was invigorating, with the trail winding through forests and offering glimpses of the coastline. While not overly strenuous, the Koyazaka Slope provided a good workout and a chance to appreciate the natural beauty of the region. The area is registered as a Japan Heritage site, and you could feel the history with every step. It was a reminder of the countless pilgrims who had walked this path before me, each with their own hopes and dreams.


Explore Koyazaka Slope in Shingu, Wakayama: A perfect blend of hiking, history, and breathtaking views along the Kumano Kodo trail.

After the Koyazaka Slope, I ventured to Kamikura Shrine, perched high on Mount Kamikura. Reaching the shrine required climbing 538 steep stone steps, a challenging ascent that tested my stamina. The steps were irregular and worn, a testament to the shrine's ancient origins. As I climbed, I couldn't help but think of Hans and how much he would have enjoyed this climb. He always loved a good physical challenge. At the top, I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of Shingu City and the Kumano-nada Sea. The Gotobiki-Iwa, a massive rock considered a dwelling place of the gods, stood solemnly, adding to the shrine's mystical aura. It is believed that the gods of Kumano first descended to this rock. Kamikura Shrine is the original site of Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The climb was worth it, not just for the view, but for the sense of accomplishment and spiritual connection I felt at the summit.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

With the afternoon sun beginning to dip, I decided to visit Toretore Market, a bustling hub of local produce and seafood. The market was a feast for the senses, with vendors hawking their wares and the aroma of grilled seafood filling the air. I wandered through the stalls, sampling local delicacies like umeboshi (pickled plums) and browsing the selection of locally brewed sake. I picked up a few souvenirs for Hans and myself, including some dried fish, which should last well. It was fascinating to see the variety of tuna on display and learn about the local specialties. I even considered trying the seafood barbecue, but decided to save that for another time.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.

For dinner, I chose Akihei, a restaurant known for its traditional Japanese dishes. Founded in 1870, the restaurant exuded a sense of history and offered a serene atmosphere. I opted for a set meal, savoring the flavors of sukiyaki, tempura, and fresh sashimi. The staff was incredibly welcoming, and the owner's wife spoke fluent English and Chinese, making me feel right at home. It was a comforting end to a day of exploration.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

As I reflect on today's journey, I'm struck by the blend of physical challenge and spiritual enrichment that the Kumano Kodo offers. Tomorrow, I plan to tackle the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing and continue along the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. I'll also visit Fudarakusan-ji, a temple with a rich history. I'm looking forward to another day of discovery on this transformative pilgrimage.



Before heading back to Jokiin in Koya, I took a moment to appreciate the peaceful night. I am so grateful for this journey and the opportunity to connect with myself and the rich cultural heritage of Japan. I feel refreshed and ready for whatever tomorrow may bring.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.