Solo Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Day 5: Finding Peace in Ancient Waters and Breathtaking Views

Today was a day of deep reflection and exploration, perfectly embodying the spirit of Kumano Kodo. It felt like a true pilgrimage, not just a hike, as I immersed myself in the history, spirituality, and natural beauty that this region has to offer. From the serene halls of Kumano-Nachi Taisha to the rejuvenating waters of Tsubo-yu and the majestic Doro Kyo Gorge, every moment was a step further on my personal journey.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. It was a simple yet satisfying meal that fueled me for the adventures ahead. I savored the local flavors, thinking about the long day of exploration that awaited me. It's funny how a good meal can set the tone for the entire day, and today, it definitely did the trick.

First on the itinerary was the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. Nestled halfway up Nachi Mountain, the shrine has its religious origin in the ancient nature worship of Nachi-no-Otaki. As I walked through the serene grounds, I was struck by the profound sense of history and spirituality that permeated the air. The Treasure Hall itself was a fascinating glimpse into the shrine's past, housing a collection of artifacts that told stories of faith, tradition, and the deep connection between the people and the land. I was particularly drawn to the ancient mandalas, intricate graphic representations of the shrine and its cosmology, used by Kumano bikuni (nuns) who traveled around Japan preaching the Kumano faith. It was incredible to see these well-preserved examples of art and devotion, each telling a story of centuries past. The Homotsuden Treasure Hall is located in the main courtyard, across from the worship hall. The shrine is free to enter, but the Treasure Hall has an admission fee of 300 yen for adults.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

The beauty of Kumano Kodo lies not just in its scenic trails, but in the profound sense of connection it fosters between oneself and the ancient spirit of Japan.

After immersing myself in the cultural treasures of Kumano-Nachi Taisha, I made my way to Tsubo-yu, a legendary bathhouse in Yunomine Onsen. Said to be Japan's oldest bath, this humble stone hut holds a special place in the hearts of pilgrims and locals alike. The water is known for its healing properties, containing sulfur, natrium, and hydrogen carbonate. Legend has it that this mysterious ancient bath healed the ailments of legendary figure Hangan Oguri. Tsubo-yu is also the only bathing spot in the world that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Only two people can bathe at a time, and each group is allotted 30 minutes. Soap and shampoo are prohibited.


Discover the tranquility of Tsubo-yu, a historic onsen in Wakayama, perfect for relaxation and cultural immersion on your Japanese adventure.

The experience was nothing short of magical. The bathhouse itself is tiny, barely big enough for two people, adding to the intimacy and mystique. The water was wonderfully warm and soothing, and I couldn't help but reflect on the countless travelers who had sought solace in these very waters over the centuries. It's said that the water changes color seven times a day, depending on the conditions, a phenomenon that adds to the bath's allure. Although I didn't witness the color change myself, the feeling of serenity and rejuvenation was undeniable. It was the perfect way to cleanse both body and spirit after a morning of exploration. The bathhouse is open from 6:00 am to 9:30 pm.

For lunch, I stopped at Takehara, a local restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine. I opted for a set meal featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients, a delightful culinary experience that provided a taste of the region's bounty. I was particularly excited to try some local seafood dishes. The freshness and simplicity of the flavors were a testament to the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the chef. It was a welcome break and a chance to recharge before the afternoon's adventure.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.

With renewed energy, I set off to explore the Doro Kyo Gorge, a magnificent stretch of natural landscape that is part of the vast Yoshino-Kumano National Park. As I approached the gorge, I was immediately struck by its grandeur and beauty. Jagged ravines towered above the aquamarine waters of the Kitayama River, creating a scene that felt both awe-inspiring and humbling. Powerful erosion throughout the centuries has sculpted this otherworldly natural corridor into a place of natural beauty.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.

I spent the afternoon hiking along the trails, taking in the breathtaking views from various vantage points. The air was crisp and clean, filled with the sounds of nature – the rushing river, the rustling leaves, and the occasional birdsong. It was a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, a chance to reconnect with the natural world and find inner peace. The gorge features 31 kilometers of jagged ravines. Doro-kyo Gorge had been designated as an art by enormous waterfalls' erosion, which made waterfall basins receded, since ancient times. The stunning rock formations stand more than 50 meters above the river on downstream and its mystic beauty is also called “Dorohaccho”.

I also visited Fushiogami Teahouse. It was a lovely little shop where I was able to buy local tea. It was a perfect spot to pause and reflect on the day's journey.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse, a charming cafe along the Kumano Kodo, offering authentic Japanese tea and serene surroundings.

As evening approached, I made my way to Shimaji Honkan for dinner, eager to experience another taste of local cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The food was delicious, a fitting end to a day filled with exploration and discovery. I savored each bite, reflecting on the incredible experiences I had encountered throughout the day.

Tomorrow, I plan to continue my exploration of Kumano Kodo with a visit to the Kumano-Kodo Kohechi Pilgrimage Route and a boat river cruise. I'm also looking forward to spending some time in Yoshino Kumano National Park. I am also planning to check out the Orchard Knight bar.

Today was a reminder of the transformative power of travel. It's not just about seeing new places; it's about opening yourself up to new experiences, new perspectives, and new ways of connecting with the world around you. And as I continue my journey along the Kumano Kodo, I'm excited to see what other wonders await me on this sacred path.

The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a journey into the heart of Japan's spiritual and natural beauty.