Solo Adventure in the Enchanted Forests of Yakushima

Whispers of the Ancient Trees

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey into the heart of Yakushima's ancient forests to pay homage to some of the oldest living beings on this planet. It's a humbling experience to stand in the presence of these giants, feeling the weight of centuries and the quiet wisdom they hold. The air here is thick with moisture and the scent of cedar, creating an atmosphere that feels both primeval and profoundly peaceful.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Smiley [i], a cozy spot known for its local fare. Fuelling up was essential, as I knew I had a long day of hiking ahead. The weather forecast predicted a mix of sunshine and showers, typical for Yakushima in July, so I made sure to pack my rain gear. I’ve learned that on this island, being prepared for rain is not just a good idea, it’s a necessity.

The trail to Sandaisugi Cedar was my first destination. The path was well-maintained, winding through lush greenery, with the sunlight filtering through the canopy above. The forest floor was a carpet of moss and ferns, and the air was alive with the sounds of birds and insects. It’s moments like these that remind me why I love solo travel – the freedom to stop and simply soak in the beauty around me, without the need to rush or adhere to anyone else’s schedule. I did miss Greta's company though; she would have loved capturing the intricate details of the forest with her camera.

As I approached Sandaisugi, the sheer scale of the tree was breathtaking. The name 'Sandaisugi' means 'three generations of cedars,' and it perfectly describes this ancient tree. The first generation fell after about 2,000 years, and the second, which sprouted on the fallen trunk, was cut down after 1,000 years. The current third-generation cedar is a juvenile, but it is a remarkable example of Yakusugi cedar regeneration. Standing there, I felt a deep connection to the natural world, a sense of awe and respect for the resilience of life. It's incredible to think that this tree has witnessed centuries of change, silently standing guard over the forest.


Explore the ancient beauty of Sandaisugi Cedar, a serene nature preserve in Yakushima, renowned for its majestic cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

In the presence of ancient trees, one feels the weight of history and the enduring power of nature.

After spending some time at Sandaisugi, I continued my journey towards Daio Sugi, also known as the Great King Sugi. This magnificent tree is one of the largest and oldest Yakusugi trees on the island. It stands 24.7 meters tall, with a circumference of 11.1 meters, and is estimated to be about 3,000 years old. Before the discovery of Jomon Sugi, Daio Sugi was considered the oldest and largest of its kind on Yakushima.

The Okabu Trail, an extension of the Arakawa Trail, led me to Daio Sugi. Along the way, I passed Wilson's Stump, another iconic landmark on Yakushima. The trail was more challenging than the one to Sandaisugi, with steeper inclines and rocky terrain. But the effort was well worth it. Reaching Daio Sugi, I was struck by its grandeur. Although parts of its hollow are visible, the tree still commands respect and admiration. Unlike Jomon Sugi, which can only be viewed from an observatory, it's possible to approach Daio Sugi and see it up close.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

I took my time to appreciate the majesty of Daio Sugi, walking around its base and marvelling at the intricate patterns of its bark. It’s humbling to realize that this tree was already ancient when the Roman Empire was at its height. I tried to capture its essence with my camera, but no photograph can truly convey the feeling of standing in its presence. It’s a sensory experience – the cool, damp air, the scent of cedar, the sound of the wind rustling through its branches.

For lunch, I stopped at Wakadaisho [i], a popular restaurant in Miyanoura known for its fresh seafood. I savored a delicious meal of local fish, a perfect complement to the day’s adventures. The staff were incredibly friendly, and the atmosphere was warm and welcoming. It’s these small, local experiences that make travelling so rewarding.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

After a fulfilling day of hiking and exploration, I decided to unwind at Ambar [i], a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere. I enjoyed a refreshing drink, reflecting on the day’s experiences. The bar was a mix of locals and tourists, all sharing stories and laughter. It was a great way to connect with people and learn more about the island's culture.


Experience the lively dart bar culture at Ambar in Yakushima, where fun, friendship, and refreshing drinks await every night.

As the day drew to a close, I headed to Yakushima Gallery Restaurant [i] for dinner. This restaurant is known for its local dishes made with ingredients from Yakushima. I opted for a set meal served in a Yakusugi wooden bowl, a unique and flavorful experience. The restaurant also features Yakusugi crafts, showcasing the beauty and artistic value of the island’s cedar wood.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

The weather today was typical for Yakushima in July – a mix of sunshine and rain. The temperature hovered around 27°C, with high humidity. Despite the rain, the forests were vibrant and alive, and the ancient trees stood tall and proud.

Tomorrow, I plan to delve deeper into Yakushima’s cultural heritage with a visit to the Yakushima Museum of History and Folklore and the Yakusugi Museum [i]. I’m looking forward to learning more about the island’s rich history and the unique relationship between its people and the natural environment. I might also stop by Shealy Coco [i], a local shop, to pick up some souvenirs for Greta and myself.

Reflecting on today, I’m filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the beauty and tranquility of Yakushima. It’s a place that nourishes the soul and reminds us of the importance of preserving our natural heritage. The ancient cedars stand as a testament to the enduring power of nature, and their silent wisdom is a gift to all who visit.