A Family Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Echoes of the Ancients: A Day on the Waters and Cliffs of Kumano

Today was a day of breathtaking contrasts, from the serene waters of the Kumano River to the rugged cliffs overlooking the Pacific. Elena, Miguel, and I ventured deeper into the heart of Kumano Kodo, experiencing both its natural beauty and its culinary soul. It's days like these that remind me why we embarked on this journey – to connect with history, nature, and each other.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The simple, comforting meal of grilled fish, rice, and miso soup gave us the perfect start for our adventures. The dining hall was bustling with locals and fellow pilgrims, all eager to start their day exploring the sacred trails. I couldn't help but feel a sense of camaraderie, a shared purpose that transcended language and culture. It reminded me of the community spirit back in Stratford, especially during our Filipino gatherings.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.
With our bellies full, we set off for Doro Kyo Gorge, a place I had been eagerly anticipating since planning this trip. The drive itself was a treat, winding through lush green mountains and past quaint villages. As we approached the gorge, the air grew cooler, and the anticipation mounted. Doro Kyo Gorge is where the borders of Wakayama, Nara, and Mie prefectures meet, a valley of dramatic cliffs and emerald waters.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.
We embarked on the Kumano River boat cruise, a journey that promised to take us back in time. As the boat glided along the clear, blue-green waters, I couldn't help but imagine emperors and nobles of old making their pilgrimages along this very route. The boat tour was a serene experience, with the guide sharing stories of the area's history and pointing out unique rock formations. Miguel, ever the curious one, peppered the guide with questions about the local flora and fauna. Elena, meanwhile, was captivated by the stunning scenery, her camera clicking away to capture every moment. I was particularly fascinated by the bell-shaped Tsurigane-ishi Rock, a formation surrounded by fissures that, according to local legend, will signal the end of the world when it falls into the river.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

The river is part of the pilgrimage; it connects the sacred sites and carries the echoes of centuries of travelers.

The Doro Kyo Gorge was breathtaking. The steep, rocky cliffs that formed the walls of the gorge were impressive. The crew opened the roof of the boat so we could fully appreciate the view. I was captivated by the pristine forests and the vibrant blue-green waters. The experience was enhanced by spotting various birds, including herons and Mandarin ducks, adding to the serene atmosphere. The jet boat zipped through the waters, giving us a closer view of the rock formations. The informative commentary, though in Japanese, didn't detract from the visual splendor.

After our cruise, we were ready for lunch. We stopped at Watarase Onsen Cafe, a charming spot known for its local cuisine. The cafe was bustling with activity, filled with hikers and tourists alike. We enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties, savoring the flavors of the region. Elena particularly enjoyed the delicate tofu dishes, while Miguel devoured a hearty bowl of ramen. I opted for a traditional bento box, a delightful assortment of small, flavorful dishes.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.
With renewed energy, we headed to Toretore Market, a bustling seafood market in Shirahama. The market was a feast for the senses, with stalls overflowing with fresh fish, shellfish, and local produce. The sheer variety of seafood was astounding, from giant tuna to delicate sea urchins. We wandered through the aisles, marveling at the displays and sampling local delicacies. Miguel was particularly excited by the tuna filleting show, where a skilled chef expertly carved up a massive tuna. We picked up some pickled plums and local snacks as souvenirs. I couldn't resist buying some fresh sashimi for a late-night treat. It reminded me of the fish markets back home in Laoag, though on a much grander scale.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.
Our final stop for the day was the Onigajō Cliff Center for dinner. As we approached Onigajō, the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over the dramatic cliffs. The views from the Cliff Center were simply stunning, with the Pacific Ocean stretching out as far as the eye could see. We enjoyed a delicious dinner of local seafood, savoring the flavors of the sea while watching the sun dip below the horizon. The restaurant had a panoramic view of the Kumano Sea. According to legend, Onigajo was once home to demons, and the fierce rock formations are the result of geological erosion. We explored the narrow paths along the cliff, aided by barriers and chains, leading to the Benten Shrine. The crashing waves and the rugged coastline created a dramatic backdrop for our meal. The restaurant offered a wide variety of local products.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.
As we sat there, enjoying our meal and watching the sunset, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. This journey was not just about seeing new places; it was about creating lasting memories with my family. It was about experiencing the beauty and wonder of the world together. It was about slowing down, appreciating the simple things, and connecting with something larger than ourselves.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Oyunohara, Kumano Hongu Taisha, and the Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route. I am particularly looking forward to visiting Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the most sacred sites in the Kumano region. I'm also excited to walk a portion of the Nakahechi Daimon-saka Pilgrim Route, imagining the countless pilgrims who have walked these paths before us. I'm sure it will be another day filled with adventure, discovery, and unforgettable moments.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped by the Onigajo Center, where I bought a bottle of Mihama Mikan Juice. Sipping on the citrusy drink, I felt a sense of contentment wash over me. Today was a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and culinary delights. It was a day that will stay with me long after we leave Kumano Kodo.

Back at our accommodation, I reflected on the day's adventures. I felt a profound connection to this ancient pilgrimage route. The blend of natural beauty, historical significance, and spiritual energy was truly captivating. I thought about the pilgrims who had walked these trails for centuries, seeking enlightenment and connection with the divine. I felt a sense of kinship with them, a shared understanding of the power of pilgrimage.

As I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this opportunity to explore Kumano Kodo with my family. It was a journey that was enriching our lives in countless ways. It was a journey that would stay with us forever.

The Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall was a great way to start the day. The Kumano River boat cruise was a serene experience. Watarase Onsen Cafe was a charming spot for lunch. Toretore Market was a bustling seafood market. The Onigajō Cliff Center offered stunning views.