A Family Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Whispers of the Gods

Today, as our family continues our pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo, I felt a profound connection to the spiritual heart of Japan. The echoes of ancient prayers and the tangible sense of history made this day particularly special. It was a day of exploration, reflection, and delicious food, as we ventured deeper into the sacred landscapes of Wakayama Prefecture.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. Elena and Miguel particularly enjoyed the homemade bagels, made with natural yeast, while I savored the locally grown vegetables. It's always a pleasure to support local businesses, especially when they offer such wholesome and delicious food. The owner moved from Tokyo, seeking the nature and quiet of Kumano – I can understand why ! I'm glad we opted for the breakfast here; starting the day with such a delightful meal set a positive tone for our explorations. I even managed to practice a few Japanese phrases with the owner, though my pronunciation still needs work!


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

After breakfast, we set out to explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano. As we approached the shrine, the serene atmosphere was palpable. The shrine's history dates back to Japanese mythology, and it has been a center of worship for centuries. Even though the current buildings were recently rebuilt, the site has been sacred since at least the 12th century. It's humbling to walk in the footsteps of countless pilgrims who have sought solace and spiritual growth here.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

One of the highlights of Kumano Hayatama Taisha was the sacred Nagi tree, believed to be over 1,000 years old. Its symmetrical leaves are said to bring harmony to married couples, a sentiment Elena and I appreciated. We took a moment to offer a prayer for continued happiness and good fortune for our family. Miguel, ever the curious one, was fascinated by the Treasure Hall, which houses national treasures, including offerings from pilgrims along the Kumano Kodo.

Sometimes, the most profound experiences are found in the quiet corners of the world, where nature and spirituality intertwine.

Next on our itinerary was Kamikura Shrine, a site even older than Hayatama Taisha. Reaching it required climbing over 500 steep stone steps up Mt. Kamikura. The climb was challenging, especially in the midday sun, but the reward was well worth the effort. The steps, built from fitted field stones, were irregular in shape and size, a testament to the shrine's ancient origins. I must admit, I was huffing and puffing quite a bit, but Elena and Miguel were troopers, encouraging me along the way.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

At the summit, we were greeted by Gotobiki-iwa, a massive rock considered sacred, believed to be where the Shinto God Kumano-sansho-okami resides. The view from the top was breathtaking, overlooking Shingu City and the Pacific Ocean. It was easy to see why this place is considered one of the oldest sacred sites in the Kumano area. Kamikura Shrine is believed to be the first place where the deities of Kumano descended, making it a truly special and powerful location. The sheer height of the rock, combined with the panoramic view, instilled a sense of awe and reverence. It was a moment of profound connection to the natural and spiritual world.

After descending from Kamikura Shrine, our appetites were calling, and we headed to Tororoya for lunch. This restaurant is known for its delicious set meals, and we were not disappointed. Miguel tried the local delicacy, *meharizushi* (pickled mustard leaf wrapped around rice), while Elena and I enjoyed a hearty bowl of *tororo* (grated yam) over rice. The flavors were simple yet satisfying, providing us with the energy we needed for the rest of the day's adventures.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

With renewed vigor, we ventured into Yoshino Kumano National Park. This vast park encompasses mountains, forests, and coastline, offering a diverse range of natural landscapes. We opted for a leisurely stroll along one of the park's many trails, enjoying the lush greenery and the sounds of nature. The park has been a center of Kumano Shinko worship since ancient times, and it's easy to feel the spiritual energy as you walk through the ancient forests. We didn't spot any Asian black bears, but we did see several sika deer grazing peacefully.


Explore the breathtaking beauty of Yoshino Kumano National Park, a serene escape into nature's heart in Japan's Nara Prefecture, rich in culture and adventure.

As evening approached, we made our way to Yorozuya Eatery for dinner. This *izakaya* offered a variety of dishes, from *okonomiyaki* to grilled skewers. We decided to try a bit of everything, sharing plates and enjoying the lively atmosphere. The staff were friendly and welcoming, making us feel right at home. It was a perfect way to unwind after a long day of exploring.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

To cap off the evening, I convinced Elena to join me for a quick visit to Wine Kumano. This cozy bar specializes in natural wine, and I was eager to sample some local varieties. We enjoyed a glass of red wine, savoring the quiet ambiance and reflecting on the day's experiences. Miguel, of course, opted for a non-alcoholic beverage. It was a delightful way to end a day filled with spiritual awakening and natural beauty.


Discover the perfect blend of local flavors and fine wines at Wine Kumano, a hidden gem in Wakayama's culinary scene.

Reflecting on the day, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the sacred landscapes of Kumano Kodo with my family. The ancient shrines, the challenging climbs, and the delicious food have all contributed to a deeper understanding of Japanese culture and spirituality. It's moments like these that make our family travels so rewarding.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Doro Kyo Gorge and take a Kumano Boat River Cruise []. I'm particularly excited about the boat cruise, as it will offer a unique perspective on the stunning natural scenery. We'll also be visiting the Toretore Market, which I hear is a great place to sample local seafood []. I'm sure it will be another day filled with adventure and discovery.

As we prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I am reminded of the importance of embracing the present moment and appreciating the simple joys of life. Whether it's climbing ancient stone steps, savoring local delicacies, or sharing a glass of wine with loved ones, these are the moments that make our journey so meaningful. Until tomorrow, *Mata ne*!