A Family Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Day 8: Echoes of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a day of deep reflection and delightful discoveries. We continued our journey along the Kumano Kodo, immersing ourselves in the spiritual and culinary treasures of this ancient pilgrimage route. It's amazing how each day brings new perspectives and experiences, enriching our understanding of Japanese culture and history.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at the Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall. The aroma of traditional Japanese dishes filled the air, and we eagerly sampled a variety of local specialties. Elena particularly enjoyed the *onsen tamago*, eggs cooked in the hot spring waters, while Miguel couldn't get enough of the hearty rice bowls. I savored the grilled fish, a simple yet flavorful dish that perfectly captured the essence of the region. It reminded me of the simple meals we used to share back in Laoag, where fresh ingredients and family were at the heart of every gathering. The dining hall also served as a newsstand, so I took the opportunity to brush up on local events.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

With our stomachs full and spirits high, we set out to explore Fudarakusan-ji. This Tendai temple, steeped in history and legend, is a truly remarkable place. As we approached, a sense of tranquility washed over us, the gentle breeze rustling through the ancient trees. The temple is renowned for the practice of *Fudaraku Tokai*, where monks would set out to sea in small boats, effectively as a form of self-sacrifice, entrusting themselves to the currents in search of enlightenment.


Explore the tranquility of Fudarakusan-ji, a beautiful Buddhist temple in Wakayama, Japan, where spirituality meets stunning natural landscapes.

The story of Ragyō Shōnin, the Indian monk who is said to have founded Fudarakusan-ji over a thousand years ago, is particularly fascinating. Legend says he was shipwrecked off the Kii Peninsula and carried ashore, marking the beginning of this sacred site. Knowing that the temple was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004 added to the reverence I felt. We saw a replica of the boat used in the Fudaraku Tokai ritual. It was a sobering reminder of the monks' dedication.

Sometimes, the greatest journeys are those we take within ourselves.

Afterward, we visited the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. This hall houses a collection of artifacts that offer a glimpse into the shrine's rich history and religious significance. Miguel was particularly intrigued by the Nachisan Shrine Mandala, a 500-year-old painting used by Kumano nuns to preach the Kumano faith. Elena was drawn to the collection of mirrors used in the Fire Festival, symbols of Amaterasu-no-Okami, the sun goddess. I found the sacred sword, believed to have descended from the heavens, to be the most captivating.


Explore the Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall, a historical gem showcasing Japan's Shinto heritage and breathtaking natural beauty.

For lunch, we stopped at the Fushiogami Teahouse. This quaint café is nestled in the scenic region of Tanabe, offering a serene spot to relax and enjoy the natural beauty of the area. We sipped on local tea and savored traditional Japanese sweets, surrounded by the tranquil atmosphere of the Kumano Kodo. It was a perfect opportunity to reflect on the morning's experiences and recharge for the afternoon ahead.


Experience tranquility at Fushiogami Teahouse in Tanabe - your serene escape into traditional Japanese tea culture amidst stunning natural beauty.

In the late afternoon, we decided to do some shopping at the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. This rest area and grocery store offered a variety of locally grown vegetables and regional products. Elena picked up some *yuzu-miso*, a soybean paste mixed with citrus, while Miguel chose a bottle of Kumano soda pop, made with local plums and oranges. I was on the lookout for a *Minachi-gasa*, a traditional conical headpiece made of cypress, but unfortunately, they only had one craftsman left, and his wares were sold out.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As evening approached, we made our way to Yorozuya Eatery for dinner. This *izakaya*-style restaurant offered a diverse menu of *teppan-yaki* dishes and other Japanese favorites. We opted for a set meal that included grilled skewers and local sake. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, and we enjoyed chatting with the friendly staff and fellow diners. I was reminded of the bustling eateries in Manila, where the sense of community and shared enjoyment of food created a truly special experience.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.

Reflecting on the day, I am struck by the seamless blend of the sacred and the everyday along the Kumano Kodo. The ancient temples and shrines stand as testaments to a rich spiritual heritage, while the local shops and restaurants offer a taste of contemporary Japanese life. It's a journey that nourishes both the soul and the senses.

Tomorrow, we plan to continue our trek, crossing the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass and exploring the Kumano-Kodo Shimizu-toge Pass. We'll start with breakfast at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, followed by a hearty lunch at Hinoki Steak House. In the evening, we hope to unwind at the Kumano Winery Guest House/Dal Chef’s Table. I'm particularly looking forward to experiencing more of the natural beauty and culinary delights that this region has to offer.

As I prepare for another day on the Kumano Kodo, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for this opportunity to explore Japan's sacred trails with my family. It's a journey that I will cherish for years to come.