A Family Pilgrimage through Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Whispers of the Past
Today was a day for quiet reflection and gentle exploration along the Kumano Kodo. We ventured into the heart of the Kii Peninsula, seeking to connect with the spiritual essence of this ancient pilgrimage route. It was a day of serene landscapes, historical insights, and moments of personal contemplation that left us feeling refreshed and grounded.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It was a delightful way to fuel up for the morning's adventures. The cafe offered a variety of dishes made with local Kumano vegetables, a perfect way to start our exploration of the region. The fresh, vibrant flavors were a testament to the area's rich agricultural heritage, and it was a pleasure to support a local establishment that clearly took pride in its offerings.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

After breakfast, we set out to explore the Koyazaka Slope. The sunlight filtering through the trees created an ethereal atmosphere as we began our walk. The path was lined with moss-covered stones, each step echoing centuries of pilgrims who had walked this same route. Miguel, always the energetic one, bounded ahead, eager to capture the perfect photograph of the surrounding scenery. Elena and I strolled at a more leisurely pace, savoring the tranquility of the forest. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of pine and damp earth, a welcome change from the city air we were accustomed to back in Stratford.


Discover the enchanting Koyazaka Slope in Wakayama, a captivating hiking area rich in history and breathtaking views, perfect for all nature lovers.

The Koyazaka Slope, part of the UNESCO World Heritage Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, offered a blend of natural beauty and historical significance. The well-maintained trails wound through lush greenery, providing glimpses of the Kumano-nada Sea through the trees. We paused at several observation points, taking in the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. It was easy to imagine the countless pilgrims who had walked this path before us, seeking spiritual solace and connection with nature. Even Miguel, usually engrossed in his photography, seemed to be moved by the serene atmosphere.

As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on my own journey. Like those ancient pilgrims, I too was seeking something on this trip – a deeper connection with my heritage, a sense of peace, and quality time with my family. The Kumano Kodo seemed to be the perfect place to find it. The gentle rhythm of our footsteps, the beauty of the natural surroundings, and the shared experience with my loved ones all contributed to a sense of calm and contentment. It was a far cry from the data-driven world of my work, but in its own way, just as fulfilling.

Sometimes, the most profound journeys are those taken in quiet contemplation.

We eventually made our way to Tokei Shrine. This shrine, established in 419 AD, has served as a place of prayer and reflection for centuries. As we approached, we were greeted by towering trees and meticulously maintained gardens, creating an atmosphere of profound peace. The shrine is dedicated to the deities of the Kumano Sanzan, and in ancient times, some pilgrims would worship from afar here, without venturing further into the mountains.


Experience the tranquil beauty of Tokei Shrine in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential spiritual and historical attraction for every traveler.

Inside the shrine, we took a moment to light incense and offer a prayer for our family's well-being and safe travels. Elena, ever the devout one, lingered a bit longer, her lips moving in silent prayer. I watched her, admiring her unwavering faith and the quiet strength she drew from it. It reminded me of the many times she had been my rock, especially during the difficult transition when we first moved to Canada. Her resilience and optimism had always been an inspiration to me.

Leaving the shrine, we felt a sense of renewal and connection to the past. The history of the shrine is rich. Tokei Shrine is known as the gateway to Kumano Kodo. It enshrines all the kami that are enshrined in the Kumano Sanzan. According to the shrine, it was founded in the 5th century, and rose to prominence in the 11th century as a branch of the Kumano Sanzan shrines. Pilgrims would pray here for a safe journey.

For lunch, we enjoyed a delightful meal at Tororoya. The restaurant was known for its traditional Japanese cuisine, and we eagerly anticipated tasting the local flavors. We savored each bite, appreciating the artistry and care that went into the preparation of the dishes. It was a welcome break, and we felt refreshed and ready for the afternoon's activities.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

As the day drew to a close, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at Akihei. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the menu featured a variety of local specialties. We shared stories and laughter, cementing the bonds that tied us together as a family. It was moments like these that made our journey so special, creating memories that would last a lifetime.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Before heading back to Jokiin, we made a spontaneous stop at Why Kumano, a local bar. It was a cozy spot, filled with locals and fellow travelers alike. We sipped on local Kumano Kodo beer, a local craft beer, and chatted with the friendly bartender. It was a great way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. The bar had a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere, and we felt right at home. I even struck up a conversation with a fellow genealogy enthusiast, exchanging tips and stories about our respective family histories.


Discover Why Kumano: A tranquil bar, hotel, and café experience in the heart of Wakayama's serene landscape.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Fudarakusan-ji and Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. I'm particularly excited about visiting Kumano-Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Homotsu-den Treasure Hall. It is said to house many important cultural artifacts and treasures, and I am eager to learn more about the history and significance of the shrine.

As I write this, I am filled with gratitude for the experiences of the day. The Kumano Kodo has a way of slowing things down, of inviting reflection and connection. It's a place where the past and present intertwine, where nature and spirituality converge. And I am grateful to be sharing it all with my family.

The lessons learned on the trail today will be carried with us, informing our steps as we continue this journey. I am reminded of a saying my own father used to repeat often:

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

Tonight, that step feels a little lighter, a little more purposeful, thanks to the quiet whispers of the Kumano Kodo.