Family Adventure on Shikoku Island: Exploring Japan's Hidden Gem

Echoes of Edo in Matsuyama

Today was a journey through time, a day where ancient echoes resonated in every stone and soothing waters whispered tales of centuries past. From the imposing heights of Matsuyama Castle to the steamy depths of Dogo Onsen, I immersed myself in the heart of Shikoku's captivating history and culture. It’s a day I’ll treasure, a perfect blend of exploration and relaxation that left me feeling rejuvenated and deeply connected to Japan’s rich heritage.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Inonakanokawazu. The restaurant was quaint and charming, with a cozy atmosphere that immediately made us feel at home. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, rice, and an assortment of small, flavorful side dishes. Alessia, predictably, was most excited about the Tamagoyaki, the sweet rolled omelet. Pieter enjoyed the natto, a fermented soybean dish, which I still haven’t quite acquired a taste for. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploring Matsuyama.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we set off to conquer Matsuyama Castle. As we approached, the castle's grandeur became increasingly apparent. Perched atop Mount Katsuyama, it commanded a panoramic view of the city and the Seto Inland Sea. We decided to take the ropeway up, a fun and scenic ride that Alessia absolutely loved. The anticipation built as we ascended, catching glimpses of the castle through the trees.

Stepping out of the ropeway station, we were immediately transported back in time. The castle grounds were meticulously maintained, with towering stone walls, intricate gates, and imposing turrets. As we wandered through the complex, I couldn't help but marvel at the craftsmanship and strategic design of this feudal fortress. Built in the early 17th century by Katō Yoshiaki, Matsuyama Castle has witnessed centuries of history, from battles and sieges to periods of peace and prosperity.

We explored every nook and cranny of the castle, climbing steep staircases, peering through narrow windows, and imagining what life must have been like for the samurai who once defended these walls. Alessia was fascinated by the displays of armor and weaponry in the castle museum, peppering us with questions about each artifact. Pieter, ever the history buff, was engrossed in the castle's architectural details, pointing out the ingenious defensive features and the subtle symbolism in the design.

The main keep, or *tenshu*, was particularly impressive. Rebuilt in 1820 after the original was destroyed by lightning, it stands as a testament to the resilience and determination of the people of Matsuyama. From the top floor, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the city sprawling below, the shimmering Seto Inland Sea stretching out to the horizon, and the distant Shikoku Mountains providing a stunning backdrop.

Sometimes, the most enriching experiences are those that allow you to step outside of your own time and immerse yourself in the stories of the past.

After descending from the castle, our stomachs began to rumble, signaling it was time for lunch. We headed to Restaurant&Cafe Riina, a charming spot known for its Italian and French-inspired cuisine with a focus on local, homegrown vegetables. The restaurant had a relaxed and inviting atmosphere, with a menu that offered a variety of options to suit every taste. I decided on the plate lunch, which featured a selection of seasonal dishes, while Pieter opted for the beef fillet steak lunch. Alessia, of course, chose the hamburger. Each dish was beautifully presented and bursting with flavor, showcasing the freshness and quality of the ingredients.

With our appetites satisfied, we made our way to the Dogo Onsen Main Building, the highlight of our day. As we approached the onsen, the air grew thick with the scent of sulfur, a telltale sign of the natural hot springs that lie beneath this historic town. The Dogo Onsen Main Building is a magnificent wooden structure, a three-story castle-like bathhouse that has been designated as an Important Cultural Property.

Stepping inside, we were transported to another world. The atmosphere was serene and calming, with the gentle sound of flowing water and the soft glow of lanterns creating a sense of tranquility. We changed into our yukatas, light cotton robes, and made our way to the baths. The onsen offers several different bathing areas, each with its own unique characteristics and mineral composition. I chose the Kami-no-Yu bath, known for its therapeutic properties and its elegant design. The water was wonderfully hot, and I could feel my muscles relaxing and my mind unwinding as I soaked in its soothing embrace.

Alessia was a bit hesitant at first, but she quickly warmed up to the experience, splashing and giggling as she enjoyed the warm water. Pieter, a seasoned onsen-goer, was in his element, savoring the peace and quiet and the rejuvenating effects of the mineral-rich water. After our bath, we retreated to a private room to relax and enjoy some tea and sweets. Sipping on green tea and nibbling on delicate *wagashi*, traditional Japanese confections, we reflected on the day's adventures.

Feeling refreshed and revitalized, we ventured out to explore the streets of Dogo Onsen town. The town was charming and picturesque, with narrow lanes lined with traditional shops, restaurants, and ryokans. We strolled along, browsing the local crafts, sampling street food, and soaking in the atmosphere of this historic onsen town. As the sun began to set, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at Amekaze Shokudo. While there appears to be one in Nankoku, we opted for a restaurant closer to us.

The cozy atmosphere and the promise of delicious local cuisine drew us in. The menu featured a variety of dishes made with fresh, seasonal ingredients, and we eagerly ordered a selection of specialties. I decided on a savory rice bowl, while Pieter chose a delectable seasonal dish. Alessia enjoyed a perfectly prepared children's meal. The flavors were rich and satisfying, and we savored every bite, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience the culinary delights of Shikoku.

To cap off the evening, Pieter and I decided to sneak off to Bar Kohno for a nightcap. Alessia was fast asleep, so we left her in the capable hands of her grandmother. Nestled in the heart of Matsuyama, Bar Kohno exuded an inviting ambiance, with soft lighting and a curated selection of spirits. We sipped on expertly crafted cocktails, enjoying the quiet atmosphere and the company of fellow travelers. It was the perfect way to end a day filled with history, culture, and relaxation.

As I reflect on our day in Matsuyama, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and wonder. This city has a unique charm, a captivating blend of ancient history and modern life, of bustling streets and tranquil oases. From the imposing heights of Matsuyama Castle to the steamy depths of Dogo Onsen, I have been transported to another world, a world where the echoes of the past resonate in every stone and the soothing waters whisper tales of centuries past.

Tomorrow, we set off to explore the natural wonders of Shikoku, heading to Shikoku Karst and Lake Sameura. I'm excited to see what adventures await us as we continue our journey through this enchanting island. I've heard that Shikoku Karst offers breathtaking views and unique landscapes, while Lake Sameura is a serene oasis perfect for relaxation and reflection. I am especially excited about visiting Sunshine Tai, as I want to get something uniquely Japanese to bring back home.

I'm also mindful of the essentials we forgot – the portable phone charger and the first aid kit. I’ll make sure to pick them up before we head out tomorrow. It's always the little things that can make a big difference on a trip.

Until tomorrow, *ciao*!