Solo Retreat to Yakushima: A Journey into Japan's Natural Wonder

Among Giants

Today was a day of pilgrimage, a journey deep into the heart of Yakushima to stand in the presence of ancient giants. I set out to explore Yakusugi Land and witness the legendary Jōmon Sugi, a cedar estimated to be thousands of years old. The anticipation of walking among these ancient trees filled me with a sense of reverence and excitement. It was a day to connect with nature on a profound level and to reflect on the passage of time, a sentiment that resonates deeply within me as I navigate through my own life's journey.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.

My day began with an early breakfast at Panorama. The fusion cuisine was a delightful start to the day. It's fascinating how they blend local ingredients with international flavors. Fuelled up, I headed towards Yakusugi Land, eager to immerse myself in the island's famed cedar forests.


Experience the best of Yakushima's culinary scene at Panorama – where creative cuisine meets local tradition in a cozy izakaya atmosphere.

Yakusugi Land is a designated Natural Recreation Forest, and as I stepped onto the trails, I could immediately feel the embrace of the ancient woodland. The air was thick with the scent of cedar and damp earth, and the sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow. I decided to take the 150-minute course. It was the perfect length to delve into the forest's depths without pushing myself too hard. The trails were well-maintained, a mix of wooden walkways and mountain paths, making the hike accessible yet engaging.

As I walked, I was surrounded by colossal Yakusugi trees, each with its own unique character and story. Some were gnarled and twisted with age, their roots clinging to the earth like ancient claws. Others stood tall and proud, their massive trunks reaching towards the sky. The forest floor was a carpet of vibrant green moss, blanketing every surface and adding to the enchanted atmosphere.

I paused frequently to admire the trees, running my hands over their rough bark and imagining the centuries they had witnessed. The Buddhasugi, Futagosugi and Sennensugi were particularly impressive, each a testament to the enduring power of nature. It was humbling to be in the presence of such ancient beings, and I felt a deep sense of connection to the natural world. It reminded me of the forests back in Ukraine, where I spent countless hours as a child, exploring and dreaming.

In the heart of the forest, time ceases to exist, and only the whispers of ancient wisdom remain.

After Yakusugi Land, I continued my journey towards the Jōmon Sugi. The trail to Jōmon Sugi is a significant undertaking, a proper hike that winds through the mountains. From March to November, private cars aren't allowed on the access road, so I took a shuttle bus from the Yakusugi Museum to the Arakawa Trailhead. The bus ride was an experience in itself, as the narrow road snaked through the dense forest, offering glimpses of the stunning landscape.

The hike to Jōmon Sugi is about 11 kilometers each way, a total of 22 kilometers for the entire trek. The first part of the trail follows an old logging tram line, a relic from Yakushima's past. It was fascinating to walk along these tracks, imagining the lives of the loggers who once worked in these forests. The tram line eventually gave way to a more traditional mountain trail, which wound its way up the mountainside.

The hike was challenging but rewarding. The trail was steep and rocky in places, and I had to navigate over roots and boulders. But the scenery was breathtaking. The forest was lush and verdant, with towering trees, cascading waterfalls, and panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. I passed by other famous trees along the way, including the Meotosugi (a pair of trees resembling a husband and wife embracing) and the Daiosugi (Great King Cedar). Each tree had its own unique charm and added to the magic of the hike.

After several hours of hiking, I finally reached the Jōmon Sugi. As I rounded a bend in the trail, the ancient cedar came into view, and I was immediately struck by its immense size and presence. It stood on a platform about 15 meters away. The Jōmon Sugi is estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old, making it one of the oldest trees in the world. It's not particularly tall, standing at around 25 meters, but its trunk is massive, with a diameter of about 5 meters.


Discover the ancient beauty of Jōmon Sugi, Japan's oldest cedar tree, nestled in the lush landscapes of Yakushima's UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I stood in awe, gazing at this ancient giant. Its gnarled branches reached out like arms, and its bark was weathered and worn, bearing the marks of countless seasons. It was humbling to be in the presence of such an old and wise being. I felt a sense of connection to the past, to the generations of people who had come before me and stood in this very spot.

The Jōmon Sugi was discovered in 1968, and its discovery sparked efforts to protect the forests of Yakushima, leading to the island's designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993. It's a testament to the importance of preserving our natural heritage for future generations.

After spending some time with the Jōmon Sugi, I began the long hike back down the mountain. My legs were tired, but my heart was full. I had experienced something truly special, something that would stay with me long after I left Yakushima.

Back in town, I treated myself to a well-deserved dinner at Shiosai. The tempura was exquisite, made with fresh, local ingredients. It was the perfect way to end a day of hiking and exploration. Shiosai is known for its fresh seafood.


Experience authentic Japanese tempura at Shiosai in Yakushima—where fresh ingredients meet culinary excellence.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I stopped by a local shop, やくすぎ屋, to browse the Yakusugi wood crafts. These crafts are made from the fallen trees and stumps of Yaku sugi, and they are a beautiful reminder of the island's natural heritage. I picked up a small wooden carving of a cedar tree, a memento of my day among the giants. I am always looking for souvenirs that connect me to the places I have visited, like the pysanky eggs I used to collect from different regions of Ukraine.


Explore Yakusugi-ya, the charming novelty store in Yakushima, where unique treasures and local crafts await every visitor.

As I reflect on my day, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the natural beauty of Yakushima. It was a day of physical challenge, spiritual connection, and profound reflection. The ancient cedars of Yakushima have a way of putting things into perspective, reminding us of the enduring power of nature and the importance of preserving our planet for future generations.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Senpiro Falls and Ryujin Falls [If you're planning a visit to Yakushima, Yakusugi Land is one of the places not to be missed, as is the Shiratani Unsuikyo ravine. As its name suggests, this nature park is home to a number of Yakusugi (Yakushima cedars over 1,000 years old). With its 4 different circular hiking trails, from 30 min to 150 min, you can choose which path to explore depending on the time you have and your hiking level.]. I am also planning to visit Ganta after my dinner at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant. I am looking forward to another day of adventure and discovery on this magical island.

It is September, and the weather in Yakushima is warm and humid. The temperature is around 28°C during the day and 25°C at night. There is a chance of rain, so it's important to be prepared with a raincoat.

For anyone planning a trip to Yakushima, I highly recommend visiting Yakusugi Land and hiking to the Jōmon Sugi. It's an experience you will never forget.