Solo Retreat to Yakushima: A Journey into Japan's Natural Wonder

Encountering the Spirits of Yakushima

Today marked the second day of my solo journey into the heart of Yakushima, and I found myself completely captivated by the island's ancient forests and serene beauty. Leaving behind the familiar comforts of Leipzig, I sought solace in nature, and Yakushima has already begun to work its magic. The day was filled with exploration, delicious local cuisine, and quiet moments of reflection amidst the towering trees.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Michikusa. I savored every bite, knowing I needed the energy for the day's adventures. The restaurant was cozy and welcoming, a perfect start before venturing into the wilderness. It reminded me of the small, family-run establishments back in Ukraine, where simple, honest food is served with a warm smile. After breakfast, I drove towards Shiratani Unsui Gorge.

The drive itself was an experience. The winding roads climbed higher into the mountains, offering glimpses of the coastline and the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean. As I approached the gorge, I noticed the landscape transforming. The air grew cooler, and the vegetation became denser, with vibrant green moss blanketing every surface. I even spotted a few Yakushima deer and monkeys along the roadside. They seemed unfazed by my presence, a testament to the harmony between wildlife and humans on this island. It reminded me of hiking in Saxon Switzerland National Park, where I often go with Hans, although the wildlife here is far more exotic.

Arriving at Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I felt like I had stepped into another world. The forest was alive with the sound of rushing water, the gentle rustling of leaves, and the chirping of unseen birds. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating an ethereal glow that illuminated the moss-covered rocks and ancient cedar trees. This ravine is known as one of Yakushima's most accessible nature parks. The well-maintained hiking trails made it easy to explore the area, and I chose a route that would take me deeper into the forest.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

As I walked, I was struck by the sheer age and size of the cedar trees. Some of them were hundreds, even thousands, of years old, their gnarled trunks and sprawling branches bearing witness to centuries of history. I paused to touch one of these giants, feeling a sense of connection to the past. It was humbling to think of all the events these trees had seen, the storms they had weathered, and the generations of creatures they had sheltered. I felt a profound sense of peace and tranquility, a feeling that I hadn't experienced since visiting my homeland, Ukraine.

The forest was not just a collection of trees; it was a living, breathing entity, a sanctuary of ancient wisdom and natural beauty.

One of the highlights of Shiratani Unsui Gorge is the area that inspired the Studio Ghibli animated film *Princess Mononoke*. As a lover of animation, I was excited to see this magical place for myself. The resemblance was uncanny. The moss-covered forest floor, the crystal-clear streams, and the towering trees created a scene straight out of the movie. I could almost imagine the forest spirits emerging from the shadows. It was a truly enchanting experience, and I spent a long time simply soaking in the atmosphere.

Leaving Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I drove towards Wilson's Stump, another iconic landmark on Yakushima. This massive stump is the remains of a giant cedar tree that was cut down centuries ago. It's named after the British botanist Ernest Henry Wilson, who brought attention to Yakushima's unique flora.

The hike to Wilson's Stump was relatively short but steep, and the humidity made it feel even more strenuous. However, the reward was well worth the effort. As I approached the stump, I was awestruck by its size. It was enormous, with a circumference of nearly 14 meters. I stepped inside the hollowed-out trunk and looked up. There it was – the famous heart-shaped opening. It framed the sky perfectly, creating a breathtaking view. It's said that the tree was felled roughly 400 years ago. This majestic stump was named after Dr. Wilson, who made the world aware of Yakusugi trees. According to some accounts, the tree was cut down under orders of the sixteenth-century warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In 1586, after a war, he forced the Shimazu clan of Kagoshima to deliver Yakushima's durable wood to build a temple.


Discover the ancient heart of Yakushima at Wilson's Stump, a majestic cedar remnant offering a unique glimpse into the island's natural history.

Inside the stump, I found a small shrine, a testament to the spiritual significance of this place. I took a moment to offer a silent prayer, expressing my gratitude for the beauty of nature and the opportunity to experience this sacred space. I could have spent hours inside Wilson's Stump, but I knew I had to move on. The trail to Jomon Sugi beckoned, and I wanted to be well-rested for tomorrow's adventure.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Anbo to have lunch at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant. I had heard so much about Yakushima's flying fish, and I was eager to try it. The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with a distinctly local atmosphere. I ordered the flying fish hitsumabushi, a local specialty. The fish was grilled to perfection, with a slightly sweet and savory flavor that was absolutely divine. It reminded me of the carp my grandmother used to cook for Christmas back in Khmelnytskyi, though with a uniquely Japanese twist. The staff was incredibly kind and accommodating, offering me a taste of local sake and sharing stories about the island's history and culture. I felt a genuine connection to the people of Yakushima, a sense of belonging that transcended language and cultural barriers. The restaurant is known for accommodating dietary restrictions, and the staff are willing to prepare vegan and nut-free pasta upon request.


Experience authentic Japanese regional cuisine with an Italian twist at Katagiri Flying Fish Restaurant on beautiful Yakushima Island.

For dinner, I decided to try Wakadaisho, an izakaya-style restaurant in Miyanoura. The restaurant serves local fish from its own fishing boats. The atmosphere was lively and convivial, with locals and tourists alike gathered around tables, sharing food and laughter. I ordered a selection of small dishes, including sashimi, grilled vegetables, and local sake. Everything was incredibly fresh and flavorful, a testament to the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the chefs. The restaurant is located on the street running along by the Miyanoura branch of the Kagoshima Bank. The owner even offered me a taste of *shochu*, a local spirit made from sweet potatoes. It was strong and pungent, but it warmed me from the inside out. The izakaya was a welcome experience, allowing me to feel like a local.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

After dinner, I wandered into Cafe＆Bar RainTree カフェバー·レインツリー, drawn in by the soft music and warm light spilling out onto the street. It was a cozy little place, filled with locals unwinding after a long day. I ordered a glass of local craft beer and sat at the bar, listening to the conversations around me. The bartender was friendly and engaging, sharing stories about the island and its people. I learned about local festivals, traditional crafts, and the challenges of living on a remote island. It was a fascinating glimpse into a culture that I knew so little about. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and discovery.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

As I walked back to my guesthouse, I reflected on the day's experiences. Yakushima had exceeded all my expectations. It was more than just a beautiful island; it was a place of magic and mystery, a place where nature reigned supreme and the human spirit thrived. I felt grateful for the opportunity to experience this unique corner of the world, and I looked forward to tomorrow's adventure: hiking to the Jōmon Sugi and exploring Yakusugi Land [see tomorrow's itinerary]. I am a bit nervous, as I've heard it's a challenging hike, but I know it will be worth it to see the ancient Jōmon Sugi, estimated to be thousands of years old. I also plan to visit Yakusugi Land, a natural park with well-maintained trails and stunning views of the surrounding forest. I must remember to bring my raincoat, as the weather in Yakushima can be unpredictable.

Before drifting off to sleep, I made a note to buy a Japanese phrasebook [TripEssentialsForgotten] when I get the chance. It would be helpful to know more than just the basic greetings. I also realized that I forgot to pack an extra memory card for my camera [TripEssentialsForgotten], so I will need to purchase one tomorrow. I want to capture every moment of this incredible journey. Good night from Yakushima!