Exploring the Enchanting Forests of Yakushima

Guardians of Time: A Day Among Giants

Today was a day of profound connection, a journey into the very heart of Yakushima's ancient soul. It wasn't just about seeing old trees; it was about feeling their presence, their enduring strength, and the stories they hold within their rings. It was a reminder that some things are timeless, and that nature's wisdom is always there for us to discover.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Aqua Cafe. I opted for their set breakfast, a delightful mix of local flavors that set the tone for the day. Fueled and ready, I set off towards Yakusugi Land. The drive itself was an experience, winding through lush landscapes, hinting at the wonders that lay ahead.

Yakusugi Land is a natural park that offers several trails, each catering to different fitness levels and time constraints. Given my eagerness to immerse myself fully, I chose one of the longer routes, a decision I didn't regret for a moment. The air was thick with moisture, the scent of cedar permeating everything. As I stepped onto the trail, I felt an immediate shift – a sense of entering a realm far removed from the everyday.

The path meandered through a forest unlike any I’ve ever seen. Towering Yakusugi cedars, some over a thousand years old, stood as silent sentinels. Their gnarled trunks and sprawling branches spoke of centuries weathered, of storms endured, and of a quiet, persistent strength. The sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the moss-covered ground, creating an ethereal, almost mystical atmosphere.

I was particularly struck by the concept of *daisugi*, a 14th- or 15th-century forestry technique where the branches of Kitayama cedar are pruned, allowing the remaining shoots to grow straight upward from a platform. This creates a sustainable way to harvest lumber without cutting down the entire tree, a testament to the ingenuity and respect for nature.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.

One of the highlights of Yakusugi Land was undoubtedly encountering the Daio Sugi. Before the discovery of Jomon Sugi, Daio Sugi was considered the largest Yakusugi. Standing before this giant, whose name literally means the great king of cedars, I felt dwarfed, not just in physical stature but also in the face of its immense age and history. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of my own fleeting existence in the grand scheme of time.

As I continued my hike, I noticed the unique regeneration process of the Yakusugi. Second-generation cedars regrowing over the cut-down trees, a common sight after centuries of forestry on the island. It was a powerful symbol of resilience and the cyclical nature of life.

After spending hours lost in the embrace of the forest, I emerged, feeling rejuvenated and deeply connected to the natural world. It was time for lunch, and I headed to Smiley, a cozy cafe near Anbo Port. I savored a delicious sandwich and a freshly squeezed juice, the perfect way to refuel after my woodland adventure. The cafe's warm atmosphere and friendly staff made it all the more enjoyable.

In the afternoon, I decided to explore the local shops, hoping to find a memento of my time in Yakushima. Pukaridō caught my eye. It was filled with an array of local products, from snacks and seafood to mountain produce and handicrafts. I picked up a few small souvenirs, tokens to remind me of this enchanting island.

Before dinner, I took a leisurely stroll along the coast, watching the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and purple. The sound of the waves was soothing, the salty air invigorating. It was a perfect end to a day filled with wonder and discovery.

For dinner, I ventured to Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter. The restaurant's name intrigued me, and I was not disappointed. The meal was an exquisite celebration of local cuisine, each dish a work of art. The izakaya-style dining experience was both intimate and convivial, and the flavors were unforgettable. It truly felt like a once-in-a-lifetime encounter, a culinary journey that captured the essence of Yakushima.

As I reflect on today's adventures, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Yakushima. It's a place that nourishes the soul, awakens the senses, and reminds us of the importance of preserving our natural world. I’m also grateful that I didn’t forget my hiking boots, rain jacket, backpack and camera, as they were all essential today!

Tomorrow, I plan to chase waterfalls, with visits to Ohko Waterfall and Senpiro Falls on the itinerary. I’m also planning to visit Ambar, which I hear is a great place to relax. I can't wait to see what wonders await me as I continue my exploration of this remarkable island.

I’m so glad I decided to come on this trip by myself. It's given me the time to reflect and appreciate the beauty around me. It’s times like these I miss David and Sophie, and I know they would have loved experiencing the magic of Yakushima with me. Perhaps one day, we can return together, and I can share with them the wonders I’ve discovered on this solo adventure.


Discover Aqua Cafe in Yakushima - where exquisite local cuisine meets breathtaking nature in a cozy dining experience.


Explore Yakusugi Land: a UNESCO World Heritage nature preserve in Yakushima known for its ancient cedar trees and stunning hiking trails.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.


Discover the cozy Smiley Café in Yakushima – where exceptional coffee meets delicious cakes and sandwiches in a warm atmosphere.


Explore Pukaridō in Yakushima for unique souvenirs and local liquors, capturing the essence of this beautiful island.


Discover authentic Japanese flavors at Each Meal, an izakaya in Yakushima where every dish is a celebration of local culture and culinary artistry.