Exploring the Enchanting Forests of Yakushima

Echoes in the Emerald: Shiratani Unsui Gorge and Wilson's Stump

Today, Yakushima unveiled more of its soul to me, a symphony of emerald hues and ancient whispers. The day was a tapestry woven with the vibrant greens of the Shiratani Unsui Gorge and the humbling presence of Wilson's Stump, each location resonating with stories of resilience and the passage of time. This solo journey continues to deepen my connection with nature, reminding me of the profound beauty and wisdom that can be found in solitude and exploration.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at hiyoriya in Yakushima. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, a delightful assortment of small dishes featuring local tofu, miso soup, and perfectly seasoned rice. It was the perfect fuel for a day of hiking.

The weather forecast had predicted rain, typical for Yakushima in July, so I was well-prepared with my rain jacket and waterproof backpack. As I set off towards the Shiratani Unsui Gorge, the air was thick with humidity, a palpable embrace that promised a day of immersion in nature's embrace. The journey to the gorge was an experience in itself, with winding roads offering glimpses of the island's dramatic coastline and dense forests.

Shiratani Unsui Gorge: A World of Moss and Mist

Arriving at the Shiratani Unsui Gorge felt like stepping into another world. The entrance to the gorge is about a 20-30 minute drive from Miyanoura Port. The gorge is renowned as the inspiration for Studio Ghibli's *Princess Mononoke*, and it's easy to see why. The sunlight struggled to penetrate the dense canopy, casting an ethereal glow on the landscape. Every surface was adorned with a thick carpet of moss, creating a velvety texture that seemed to soften the very air. I felt like I was walking through a living, breathing painting.


Explore the lush beauty of Shiratani Unsui Gorge, a scenic gem in Yakushima, featuring ancient cedar forests and stunning hiking trails.

The trails within the gorge are well-maintained, offering various routes for different fitness levels. I chose a moderate path that led me deeper into the moss-covered forest. The sound of rushing water accompanied me as I traversed over granite boulders and along winding streams. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient cedar.

The forest is a living cathedral, a place of reverence and quiet contemplation.

The gorge was teeming with life. Tiny wildflowers peeked out from beneath the moss, their delicate colors providing a striking contrast to the dominant green. I spotted several Yakushima macaques, the island's native monkeys, gracefully swinging through the trees. They seemed indifferent to my presence, a testament to the harmony between humans and nature in this unique ecosystem.

The moss itself was the star of the show. It covered everything – the forest floor, the tree trunks, the rocks – creating a seamless tapestry of green. I ran my fingers over its soft surface, marveling at its resilience and beauty. It felt ancient, as if it had been there for millennia, silently witnessing the ebb and flow of time.

Wilson's Stump: A Giant's Legacy

After spending a few hours exploring the Shiratani Unsui Gorge, I continued my journey towards Wilson's Stump. The trail to Wilson's Stump is part of the Arakawa Trail, which also leads to the famous Jomon Sugi. As I hiked, the landscape gradually changed, the moss-covered forest giving way to more rugged terrain. The anticipation built with each step, fueled by the stories I had heard about this iconic landmark.


Explore the breathtaking Wilson's Stump in Yakushima, a natural wonder showcasing the island's rich biodiversity and stunning landscapes.

Wilson's Stump is named after Ernest Henry Wilson, a British botanist who explored Yakushima in the early 20th century. Wilson introduced about 2,000 Asian plant species to the West. What remains is the stump of a massive cedar tree, believed to have been over 3,000 years old when it was felled in 1586. The tree was cut down on the order of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, a powerful feudal lord, and used to build a temple in Kyoto.

As I approached the stump, its sheer size was overwhelming. It's about 32 meters in circumference and 4.4 meters across at chest level. The interior is hollow, creating a vast cavernous space. Stepping inside, I was immediately struck by the sense of history and the passage of time. Natural spring water trickled down the sides of the stump, nourishing a miniature ecosystem of mosses and ferns.

Looking up from inside the stump, I saw the sky framed by the heart-shaped opening. It’s a view made famous by countless photographs, and it was even more breathtaking in person. The heart shape is formed by the way the tree decayed, and it's a testament to the power of nature to create beauty even in destruction.

I spent a long time inside Wilson's Stump, simply absorbing the atmosphere. It was a place of quiet reverence, a reminder of the impermanence of life and the enduring power of nature. The stump felt like a sanctuary, a place to reflect on my journey and the wonders of the world around me.

Lunch at Wakadaisho: A Taste of the Sea

By lunchtime, I had worked up quite an appetite. I headed to Wakadaisho, a restaurant in Miyanoura known for its fresh seafood. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, a testament to its popularity.


Experience authentic sushi crafted with fresh local ingredients in the heart of Yakushima's natural beauty.

I ordered a sashimi platter, a colorful assortment of the day's freshest catches. Each piece was expertly prepared, the flavors clean and vibrant. I savored every bite, appreciating the skill and artistry of the chef. The fish was incredibly fresh, a testament to Yakushima's pristine waters.

The staff were friendly and welcoming, happy to share their knowledge of the local cuisine. I learned about the different types of fish and the traditional ways of preparing them. It was a truly immersive culinary experience, one that deepened my appreciation for Yakushima's culture.

Evening Reflections and Italian Flavors

As the day drew to a close, I found myself at Il Mare, an Italian restaurant near the airport. It might seem strange to eat Italian food on a Japanese island, but I had heard rave reviews and was curious to try it.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

Il Mare is known for its authentic Italian cuisine, using local ingredients whenever possible. I ordered a pizza made with Yakushima venison, a unique and delicious combination of flavors. The crust was thin and crispy, the toppings fresh and flavorful. It was a satisfying end to a day of exploration and adventure.

Before dinner, I stopped by Cafe＆Bar RainTree, a cozy spot that combines the charm of a cafe with the lively atmosphere of a karaoke bar. Though I didn't partake in the karaoke, the ambiance was warm and inviting. I enjoyed a cup of local tea, reflecting on the day's adventures and the beauty I had encountered.


Experience the vibrant blend of karaoke and cafe culture at Cafe＆Bar RainTree in beautiful Yakushima, Japan.

As I sat there, sipping my tea, I realized that Yakushima had already cast its spell on me. The island's ancient forests, pristine waters, and unique culture had captured my heart. It was a place of profound beauty and tranquility, a place where I could connect with nature and find solace in solitude.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore Yakusugi Land and see the Daio Sugi. I also intend to visit Pukaridō, a local shop, and sample the breakfast at Aqua Cafe, lunch at Smiley, and dinner at Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter. I'm excited to see what other wonders Yakushima has in store for me.

Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.

Back at my guesthouse, I journaled about my experiences, feeling grateful for the opportunity to explore this magical island. The rain pattered softly against the windows, a soothing lullaby that promised a restful night's sleep. As I drifted off, I dreamt of moss-covered forests, ancient cedar trees, and the whispers of the ancients echoing through the emerald landscape of Yakushima.

The lessons learned today, walking through the ancient forests and witnessing the grandeur of Wilson's Stump, were profound. I was reminded that even in the face of destruction, beauty and resilience can emerge. It's a lesson I intend to carry with me long after I leave this enchanting island. This solo journey is not just about seeing new places, but about seeing myself anew, shaped and inspired by the wonders of the natural world. Good night from Yakushima.