Winter Wanderings in Kyoto: A Cultural Exploration with My Husband

A Glimpse into Kyoto's Soul

Today, Maximilian and I ventured into the heart of Kyoto, exploring the enchanting Gion district. It was a day filled with cultural immersion, spiritual reflection, and, of course, delightful culinary experiences. From the serene beauty of Yasaka Shrine to the vibrant streets of Hanamikoji Street, every moment was a captivating journey into Japan's rich heritage.


Explore Gion, Kyoto's iconic geisha district, where tradition meets charm in a captivating blend of culture and history.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Komefuku. It was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. Maximilian, ever the adventurous one, tried the tempura, declaring it the best he'd ever had. The restaurant was bustling with locals and tourists alike, all eager to start their day with a delicious meal. I was particularly impressed by the crispiness of the tempura, achieved by frying in 100% rice oil, which added to the lightness of the dish. Komefuku is definitely a culinary gem worth visiting.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Komefuku in Kyoto, renowned for its fresh seafood and exquisite tempura dishes.

With our stomachs full and our spirits high, we made our way to Gion, Kyoto's famed geisha district. The atmosphere was electric, a captivating blend of old-world charm and modern vibrancy. The narrow streets, lined with traditional wooden machiya houses, transported us back in time. I imagined geishas gracefully gliding through these very streets centuries ago. Gion felt like stepping into a living painting, every corner revealing a new and captivating scene. The area around Shijo Avenue, near Yasaka Shrine, was bustling with activity. I learned that Gion developed as a resting area for travelers to the shrine and evolved into the entertainment district it is today.

Our next stop was Yasaka Shrine, a vibrant Shinto shrine at the eastern end of Gion. As we approached, the bright vermillion gates stood out against the clear winter sky. The shrine was bustling with activity, as January is a popular time for Hatsumode, the first shrine visit of the New Year. We joined the throngs of worshippers, offering our prayers for good health and happiness in the year ahead. The air was filled with the scent of incense and the sound of chanting, creating a serene and spiritual atmosphere.


Discover the serene beauty of Yasaka Shrine, a historical Shinto sanctuary in Kyoto, renowned for its stunning architecture and vibrant cultural festivals.

To walk through Gion is to step back in time, to witness the enduring beauty of Kyoto's cultural heritage.

We learned that Yasaka Shrine is also known for hosting the Gion Matsuri, one of Japan's largest and most famous festivals, in July. Though we were visiting in winter, I could only imagine the vibrant energy that fills the shrine during the summer months. I also discovered that Yasaka Shrine holds the Okera-sai ceremony on New Year's Day, where people light sacred ropes from burning prayer sticks and carry the embers home to light their cooking fires – a fascinating tradition!

After our visit to Yasaka Shrine, we strolled along Hanamikoji Street, the heart of Gion. This charming lane is lined with traditional wooden teahouses and restaurants, exuding an air of elegance and mystery. It was along this street that I hoped to catch a glimpse of a geisha or maiko, but unfortunately, none were to be seen. Still, the atmosphere of Hanamikoji was captivating. The absence of overhead electric lines further enhanced the street's historic character. I read that photography is now prohibited on some of the side streets of Hanamikoji to protect the privacy of the geishas, a measure I fully support.


Explore Hanamikoji Street, Kyoto's iconic alleyway steeped in tradition and culture, where history meets the beauty of Japanese artistry.

For lunch, we indulged in a truly exquisite culinary experience at Kikunoi Roan. This Michelin-starred restaurant offered a modern take on traditional kaiseki cuisine. The presentation of each dish was a work of art, and the flavors were simply divine. I savored every bite, appreciating the chef's attention to detail and the use of fresh, seasonal ingredients. Maximilian, ever the wine enthusiast, was particularly impressed by the sake pairing, which perfectly complemented each course. The ambiance of the restaurant was elegant and refined, creating a truly unforgettable dining experience. It was fascinating to learn that Roan Kikunoi is run by Yoshiharu Murata, the younger brother of Kikunoi chef Yoshihiro Murata, and that the restaurant's name was inspired by a Zen saying, encouraging a sincere and confident approach to cuisine without being restrained by tradition.


Experience the art of kaiseki dining at Kikunoi Roan in Kyoto - where seasonal flavors meet exquisite presentation.

In the late afternoon, before our dinner, we decided to explore Bar K6. The bar boasted an impressive collection of over 1,200 bottles, including rare single malts. Maximilian was in his element, savoring a neat dram of a particularly rare Scotch. I opted for a creative cocktail, expertly crafted by the bartender. The atmosphere was relaxed and sophisticated, a perfect respite from the bustling streets of Gion. We chatted with some locals and fellow travelers, sharing stories and recommendations. I learned that Bar K6 is known for its unique Scottish fare, including a haggis pizza – perhaps something to try on our next visit!


Discover the vibrant nightlife of Kyoto at Bar K6, where traditional Japanese drinks meet modern bar culture in a cozy setting.

As evening approached, we made our way to Nishikawa for dinner. This renowned restaurant offered a truly authentic Kyoto dining experience. The setting was intimate and elegant, with a traditional Japanese-style building and a miniature garden. Chef Masayoshi Nishikawa's cuisine showcased the best of local and seasonal ingredients. Each dish was a masterpiece, reflecting the chef's deep understanding of Japanese culinary traditions. We savored the delicate flavors and textures, appreciating the artistry and skill that went into each creation. The kombu dashi, made from wild Hokkaido makombu kelp, was particularly memorable. It was interesting to discover that Chef Nishikawa personally meets every producer, farmer, and fisherman whose products he uses, ensuring the highest quality and freshness.


Experience exquisite Kaiseki dining at Nishikawa in Kyoto – where tradition meets artistry for an unforgettable culinary adventure.

After dinner, we took a final stroll through Gion, admiring the illuminated streets and soaking in the magical atmosphere. Though we didn't spot any geishas, the beauty and charm of the district were undeniable. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Shugakuin Imperial Villa, the Kyoto Botanical Gardens and Kuramadera Temple. I'm particularly excited about the gardens, as I hear they are stunning, even in winter. Maximilian is looking forward to exploring Kuramadera Temple, nestled in the mountains north of Kyoto.

As I reflect on our day in Gion, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and wonder. This enchanting district has captured my heart, and I know that I will cherish these memories for years to come. Gion is not just a place; it is an experience, a journey into the soul of Kyoto.

Now, as I sit here in our hotel room, sipping on a cup of green tea, I can't help but feel a sense of contentment. Kyoto has a way of weaving its magic, leaving you spellbound and yearning for more. I am so grateful to share this experience with Maximilian, my partner in adventure and my best friend.

Goodnight from Kyoto!