Scalloway Castle Travel Guide

Scalloway Castle was constructed around 1600 by Patrick Stewart, known locally as ‘Black Patie’, the 2nd Earl of Orkney and Lord of Shetland. His reign was marked by oppression and forced labour, with the castle itself built by unpaid workers summoned from Shetland’s parishes. Stewart’s iron-fisted rule ended with his imprisonment in 1609 and execution in 1615. The castle stands as a symbol of his harsh governance and the suffering endured by the Shetland people during this turbulent period.

The castle is a fine example of a late 1500s tower house, built in an L-shaped plan with a projecting entrance jamb. It features a wide scale and platt staircase, an integral kitchen, and private suites on the upper floors. The great hall on the first floor served both as a place to entertain guests and administer justice. Constructed primarily from locally quarried limestone with sandstone detailing imported from Orkney, the castle’s robust design reflects its dual role as a fortified residence and courthouse.

Beyond being a home, Scalloway Castle was the administrative heart of Shetland during Stewart’s rule. It hosted the Shetland ‘thing’ or parliament meetings, continuing its role in governance even after Stewart’s downfall. Notoriously, the castle housed a ‘maiden’, an early guillotine, highlighting the severe justice meted out here. English troops were stationed in the castle during the 1650s, and by the early 18th century, it had fallen into disrepair, with some stonework repurposed for local buildings.

Scalloway Castle has been under state care since 1908 and is maintained by Historic Environment Scotland. Though currently closed for essential conservation work, visitors can access the castle by obtaining a key from the nearby Scalloway Museum during its opening hours. The museum itself offers insights into the castle’s history and the wider heritage of Scalloway, including its role as Shetland’s ancient capital and its connections to World War II’s Shetland Bus operations.

The village of Scalloway, once the capital of Shetland until 1708, is steeped in history. The castle’s commanding position on a natural promontory overlooking the harbour underscores its strategic importance. Nearby sites include the Earl’s Palace in Orkney and Muness Castle on Unst, both linked to the Stewart family. The inscription once above the castle door, translating to “That house whose foundation is rock will stand, but will perish if it be shifting sand,” resonates as a poignant metaphor for the castle’s enduring presence despite its turbulent past.

Today, Scalloway Castle stands as a powerful emblem of Shetland’s complex history, reflecting both the architectural sophistication of its era and the harsh realities of feudal rule. It attracts history enthusiasts keen to explore the legacy of the Stewart Earls and the Norse and Scottish influences that shaped Shetland. The castle’s ruins, combined with the adjacent museum and the village’s rich heritage, offer a compelling narrative of resilience and transformation in the Northern Isles.