A Family Cultural Odyssey in Fes

Fez's Timeless Treasures

Today, Fes unfolded before us in layers of history and vibrant culture. From the opulent Palais Mnebhi to the spiritual depths of the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, and finally, the sensory explosion of the Henna Souk, every moment was a vivid lesson in the art of Fassi living. It's days like these that remind me why I love sharing these experiences with my family – each of us absorbing something unique, yet all drawing closer together through shared discovery.

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Nagham Cafe. Greta, Kian and I enjoyed the cozy atmosphere and the mint tea was particularly invigorating, preparing us for the day's adventures. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast, savoring the flavors as we discussed our plans. It was the perfect start to a day steeped in history and culture.

Palais Mnebhi: A Glimpse into Royal Grandeur

Our first stop was the Palais Mnebhi, a palace that whispers tales of Morocco's past. As a restorer of historical musical instruments, I am naturally drawn to places where history resonates so palpably. Built in the late 19th century, the palace is a stunning example of Moroccan architecture. We wandered through its intricately decorated rooms, each one a masterpiece of zellij tilework, stucco, and carved wood. The central courtyard, with its serene fountain, offered a moment of peaceful reflection.


Explore Palais Mnebhi, a historical landmark in Fes, where Moroccan heritage meets exquisite architecture and traditional cuisine.
The palace's history is as rich as its decor. It served as the residence of a wealthy family before becoming a military hospital and then a school. Most notably, it was here that the Treaty of Fes was signed in 1912, establishing the French Protectorate over Morocco. Standing in those very rooms, I could almost feel the weight of history.

Kian was particularly fascinated by the rooftop terrace, which offered panoramic views of the Fes el Bali. Greta, with her librarian's eye for detail, admired the exquisite craftsmanship evident in every corner of the palace. For me, it was the seamless blend of art and history that captivated my senses. The palace now hosts conferences and events and also features a Moroccan restaurant. I made a mental note to consider this venue if I ever needed a unique location for a cultural event.

History is not a burden on the memory but an illumination of the soul.

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University: A Center of Islamic Learning

Next, we ventured into the heart of the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, one of the oldest universities in the world. Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman of Tunisian origin, it has been a center of Islamic learning for over a thousand years. Although non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the mosque itself, we were able to appreciate its grandeur from the outside and learn about its incredible history.


Explore the Mosque and University of Kairaouine in Fes, a historic center of learning and stunning Islamic architecture that enchants every traveler.
I explained to Kian how Fatima al-Fihri used her inheritance to build the mosque, dedicating it to serving the Tunisian community in Fes. It started as a simple mosque and school, but gradually grew into a renowned center of learning, attracting scholars from all over the world. Subjects like mathematics, astronomy, medicine, and law were introduced, making it a comprehensive institution of higher education.

Greta was particularly interested in the library, which houses a vast collection of ancient manuscripts, some dating back to the 9th century. As a librarian specializing in rare books, she was thrilled to learn about the efforts to preserve this invaluable collection. I imagined her excitement at the thought of cataloging those ancient texts.

The Al-Qarawiyyin played a crucial role in the Islamic Golden Age, fostering intellectual growth and making groundbreaking advancements in various fields. It has produced numerous illustrious scholars and scientists who have shaped the course of history. Even today, it remains a significant hub for Islamic scholarship, attracting students from all over the world.

Henna Souk: A Sensory Symphony

Our final stop of the day was the Henna Souk, a vibrant marketplace filled with the sights, sounds, and smells of traditional Moroccan life. Located just off the Al-Attarine Souk, this charming market is one of the medina's most picturesque squares. The focal point is a massive, gnarled fig tree at the center, surrounded by rows of stalls offering spices, henna, kohls, and aphrodisiacs.


Discover the enchanting Henna Souk and Pottery Market in Fes, a vibrant hub of Moroccan culture and craftsmanship, perfect for unique souvenirs.
Kian was immediately captivated by the colorful displays of pottery, adorned in the traditional blue-and-white hues of Fassi ceramics. He peppered me with questions about the different designs and the process of making them. Greta, always keen to learn about local customs, engaged with the stallholders, asking about the various uses of henna and other natural products.

I found myself drawn to the Maristan Sidi Frej, a former psychiatric hospital dating back to 1286. It is believed to be the first asylum to incorporate musical therapy as a treatment method. As a musician and instrument restorer, I found this particularly fascinating. The idea that music could be used to heal the mind is something that resonates deeply with me.

As we wandered through the souk, we were enveloped in a sensory symphony of exotic aromas, vibrant colors, and the lively chatter of vendors and shoppers. It was a feast for the senses, and a perfect way to end our day of exploration.

Culinary Delights and Evening Reflections

For lunch, we savored the flavors of Restaurant Tresor Fes. The meal was a delightful exploration of Moroccan cuisine, each dish bursting with unique spices and aromas. It was the perfect place to relax and recharge after a morning of sightseeing.


Discover authentic Moroccan flavors at Restaurant Tresor Fes, where tradition meets contemporary dining in a charming setting.
As the sun began to set, we made our way to Eden at Palais Amani for dinner. The restaurant is known for its innovative take on traditional Moroccan dishes, and we were eager to experience it for ourselves. The ambiance was elegant and romantic, with soft lighting and live music creating a magical atmosphere.


Experience the exquisite fusion of Moroccan and French cuisine in a historic palace setting at Eden at Palais Amani.
The four-course meal was a culinary journey through the diverse flavors of Morocco. From the delicate appetizers to the rich and savory main courses, each dish was a work of art. Greta and I savored every bite, while Kian surprised us with his adventurous palate, trying new and exotic flavors with gusto.

After dinner, we decided to unwind at the Zen Garden bar. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and we enjoyed sipping on refreshing cocktails as we reflected on the day's adventures. Kian, tired but happy, snuggled up next to me, and we shared stories and laughter.


Discover tranquility and natural beauty at the Zen Garden in Fès, a serene escape amidst the vibrant culture of Morocco.
As I sit here now, writing this blog post, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences we shared today. Fes has a way of captivating the senses and nourishing the soul. It is a city that stays with you long after you have left its ancient walls.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Fes El Jdid, Borj Sud, and Bab Mahrouk. I'm particularly excited to visit Borj Sud, as I have heard it offers stunning panoramic views of the city. We also plan to visit La Petite Maison Berbere to pick up some souvenirs.

I am also looking forward to breakfast at Mom's Touch and dinner at Palais La Médina. I have heard wonderful things about both restaurants, and I am eager to try their traditional Moroccan cuisine. It's these culinary experiences that truly immerse you in the local culture.

I am also excited to continue exploring the medina and discovering hidden gems. Fes is a city that rewards those who take the time to wander and explore, and I am eager to see what other treasures we will find.

Our journey continues, and I can't wait to share more of our adventures with you all.

My thoughts drift back to Bamberg, to my workshop filled with the echoes of forgotten melodies. I wonder what new stories these Moroccan experiences will inspire when I return to my craft. Perhaps a new instrument, infused with the vibrant spirit of Fes?

For now, though, I am content to simply soak in the beauty and wonder of this ancient city, surrounded by the love of my family. Fes, you have captured our hearts.