A Family Cultural Odyssey in Fes

Echoes of the Past in Fes

Today, Fes revealed another layer of its complex and captivating story. From the solemn beauty of a historic synagogue to the vibrant heart of the old Jewish quarter and the grandeur of an ancient gate, it was a day of contrasts and deep reflection. Traveling with my family, I felt a profound connection to the generations who walked these same streets, each leaving their mark on this timeless city. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel – to learn, to understand, and to share these experiences with those closest to me.

Our day began with breakfast at Le Peroke Cafe Restaurant. The cafe was charming, and offered a delightful start to the day. Kian was particularly excited about his pizza, while Greta enjoyed a traditional Moroccan dish. I opted for a hearty portion of the vegan dips, which included zucchini, aubergine and tomato dips. The cafe had a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for fueling up before a day of exploration.


Discover Le Peroke Cafe Restaurant in Fes – where Moroccan tradition meets Italian flair amidst a warm and inviting atmosphere.

Our first stop was the Aben Danan Synagogue, a hidden gem tucked away in the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter. Finding it was an adventure in itself, navigating through narrow alleyways, each turn revealing a new facet of daily life in Fes. The synagogue, dating back to the 17th century, is a testament to the Jewish community that once thrived here. The architecture was simple yet elegant, with beautiful wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and a serene courtyard.


Explore the Aben Danan Synagogue in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing Morocco's rich Jewish heritage and architectural beauty.

As I stepped inside, I felt a sense of reverence, imagining the prayers and gatherings that had taken place within those walls for centuries. The caretaker shared stories of the synagogue's history, its near collapse, and its eventual restoration, breathing new life into this important cultural landmark. Greta, with her librarian's passion for history, was particularly moved by the resilience of the community and the efforts to preserve their heritage.

Visiting Aben Danan Synagogue is not only an opportunity to step back in time but also a chance to engage with the multicultural tapestry that defines Fes.

Next, we wandered through the Mellah itself. Established in the 15th century, it was once a thriving Jewish quarter, a vibrant hub of commerce and culture. Today, it still retains a distinct character, with its narrow streets, traditional houses, and Star of David motifs adorning some of the buildings. Although most of the Jewish population has since emigrated, the Mellah remains a living symbol of Morocco's Jewish heritage.


Explore the historic Mellah of Fes, a vibrant Jewish quarter rich in culture, history, and unique shopping experiences, perfect for any traveler.

As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the complex history of the Jewish community in Fes, their contributions to the city's cultural and economic life, and the challenges they faced over the centuries. The Mellah, now undergoing renovation, stands as a reminder of the importance of preserving cultural identity and promoting tolerance and understanding between different communities. It was fascinating to learn that the Mellah was once home to 17 active synagogues; today, only two remain, carefully restored and looked after by Muslim guardians.

For lunch, we ventured to Cafe Clock, a spot recommended by several fellow travelers. It was indeed a funky place, spread over three levels with a rooftop terrace overlooking the medina. The menu was eclectic, offering everything from traditional Moroccan dishes to international fare. Kian, ever the adventurous eater, opted for the famous camel burger, while Greta and I shared a flavorful tagine. The atmosphere was lively and welcoming, a mix of tourists and locals enjoying the vibrant ambiance. It was interesting to learn that Cafe Clock is renowned for its camel burgers and offers various artistic events such as calligraphy lessons and cooking classes.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

After lunch, we explored Fes Antiques, hoping to find a unique souvenir. The shop was a treasure trove of artifacts, from antique pottery to old Berber jewelry and carpets. While I didn't find anything that particularly caught my eye, Greta was fascinated by the intricate designs and the stories behind each piece. We learned from the shopkeeper that vintage carpets are handwoven by skilled women and feature colorful designs with Berber motifs.


Explore Fes Antiques: A mesmerizing blend of art, antiques, and Moroccan craftsmanship in a unique gift shop experience.

As the afternoon drew to a close, we made our way to Bab Boujloud, the iconic blue gate that marks the entrance to Fes el Bali, the old medina. The gate itself is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, with intricate tilework and elaborate carvings. Standing beneath its archway, I felt a sense of awe, imagining the countless caravans and travelers who had passed through this gate over the centuries. The gate is beautifully decorated with blue mosaics on one side and green mosaics on the other, representing the colors of Fes and Islam, respectively.


Explore the enchanting Bab Boujloud, the iconic gate to Fes, where history, culture, and vibrant markets await every traveler.

The area around Bab Boujloud was bustling with activity, a vibrant mix of food stalls, shops, and street performers. We strolled through the square, soaking in the atmosphere, before settling down at a small cafe for a refreshing mint tea. Kian was particularly amused by the snake charmers and the water sellers in their traditional costumes.

For our final meal of the day, we chose Les Jardins de Sheherazade. The restaurant offered a tranquil escape from the bustling city, with a beautiful garden setting and traditional Moroccan decor. We enjoyed a delicious meal of tagine and couscous, savoring the flavors of Fes one last time. The restaurant is known for its Moroccan cuisine created by talented chefs. It was the perfect way to end a day of exploration and reflection.


Savor authentic Moroccan flavors at Les Jardins de Sheherazade, where traditional cuisine meets enchanting ambiance in Fès.

As we headed back to our accommodation, I thought about tomorrow's itinerary, which includes a visit to Palais Mnebhi, the Mosque and University Kairaouine, and the Henna Souk and pottery. I'm particularly looking forward to exploring the Henna Souk and perhaps even trying my hand at pottery. Before that, we'll have breakfast at Nagham Cafe. With anticipation, I'm excited to see what new adventures tomorrow will bring to our family cultural odyssey in Fes. I'm also tempted to try the Zen garden bar tomorrow night for a relaxing end to the day.

Tomorrow promises more discoveries, more stories, and more opportunities to connect with the rich tapestry of Moroccan culture. And as I drift off to sleep, I know that Fes will continue to surprise and inspire me, long after I've left its ancient walls.