Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Dainichietsu's Embrace

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and gentle exploration along a less-trodden path of the Kumano Kodo. It's amazing how each day here brings a new perspective, a different flavor, and a deeper connection to the soul of Japan. Today was about immersing ourselves in the serene beauty of the Dainichietsu Trail and savoring the simple joys of local cuisine.

The morning began with a hearty breakfast at KUMANOYASAI CAFE. It's a charming little spot, and learning that it used to be a sake store warehouse added a layer of historical intrigue to my morning. The cafe is known for using fresh, local vegetables, which aligned perfectly with my desire to experience the region's culinary essence. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and perfectly steamed rice. Kian, of course, was more interested in the pastries, but even he enjoyed the fresh fruit. Greta appreciated the strong coffee, essential for fueling our day's trek. It was a delightful way to start the day, feeling the warmth of the community even before stepping onto the trail.


Discover tranquility at Kumonoyasai Cafe - where authentic flavors meet stunning nature along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail.

With our bellies full and spirits high, we made our way to the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. This section of the Kumano Kodo is known for being a shorter, steeper route connecting Hongu and Yunomine Onsen, offering a climb over a small mountain pass. The air was crisp and clean, with a hint of earthy fragrance from the surrounding forest. The trail itself was a mix of stone steps and winding dirt paths, a testament to the countless pilgrims who have walked this way over centuries.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

As we ascended, the sounds of the modern world faded away, replaced by the rustling of leaves and the chirping of birds. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, creating dappled patterns on the forest floor. It was a moderately challenging hike, but the beauty of the surroundings made it all worthwhile. Kian, ever the energetic one, scampered ahead, his laughter echoing through the trees. Greta and I followed at a more leisurely pace, taking in the views and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.

The beauty of the Kumano Kodo lies not just in its stunning landscapes, but in its ability to connect you with something deeper – a sense of history, spirituality, and inner peace.

Reaching the summit, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and mountains. It was a moment of pure serenity, a chance to catch our breath and reflect on the journey so far. I took a few photos, trying to capture the essence of the landscape, but some things are simply too grand to be confined to a frame. The scar above my left eyebrow, a memento from a childhood adventure, seemed to tingle as I thought about the adventures that Kian will have in his life.

The descent was equally enchanting, with new vistas unfolding at every turn. We eventually arrived at Yunomine Onsen, one of Japan's oldest hot spring towns. The town itself is a quaint collection of inns nestled in a small valley, a place where time seems to slow down. It's said that the waters here change color seven times a day, a testament to their unique mineral composition.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

Lunch was at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, a casual spot known for its traditional Japanese dishes. We tried a variety of teishoku sets, each featuring fresh, local ingredients. I opted for the grilled fish set, while Greta enjoyed the tempura. Kian, predictably, chose the udon noodles. The dining hall also doubles as a newsstand, so I took the opportunity to browse through some local publications, learning more about the region's history and culture. It was a perfect spot for tourists, with a warm and welcoming ambiance.

After lunch, we took a stroll through the town, exploring the various shops and attractions. We even visited Tsuboyu, a historic bath that pilgrims used to purify themselves. Tickets are sold at a booth next to the temple, and the experience is said to be incredibly rejuvenating. However, with Kian in tow, we decided to save the hot spring experience for another time. Instead, we enjoyed a delicious ice cream cone from a local vendor, savoring the sweet treat as we watched the world go by.

As evening approached, we made our way to Akihei for dinner. This restaurant, founded in 1870, exudes a serene, traditional Japanese atmosphere. The fifth-generation owner prepares a variety of authentic dishes, from sukiyaki to tempura. I decided to try the sashimi, while Greta opted for the tempura set. Kian, surprisingly, chose the sushi, devouring each piece with gusto. I was very happy to see that they have vegan, vegetarian, and pescatarian options, as well as a kid's menu. The restaurant has a 150-year history, and I felt like I was experiencing a part of that.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

To cap off the evening, and because we were in vacation mood, I decided to check out HANGOVER, a local bar. I was curious about the name, to be honest, and was hoping for a bit of local color. It turned out to be a cozy spot, with a decent selection of drinks and a friendly atmosphere. I enjoyed a glass of local sake, chatting with the bartender about the history of the Kumano Kodo and the legends surrounding it. It wasn't quite the roaring party that some HANGOVER bars are known for, but it was a pleasant way to unwind after a day of hiking. I made sure not to stay out too late, as we have another day of trekking ahead of us.


Experience the taste of classic American diner cuisine at Hangover in Tanabe, where every meal is a comforting delight.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Pilgrimage Route. We'll start with breakfast at Fushiogami Teahouse, followed by lunch at Tororoya. I'm particularly interested in visiting the Kumano Kodo Information Center to learn more about the history and significance of this ancient trail. I'm also looking forward to dinner at Hinoki Steak House, a chance to indulge in some delicious Japanese cuisine. Greta is excited about visiting the shops in the area, and Kian is just happy to be outdoors, exploring the natural world.

As I sit here now, writing this entry, I feel a deep sense of gratitude for this experience. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery, a chance to connect with nature and with the rich cultural heritage of Japan. And to share this journey with my family makes it all the more special.

I am so glad that we decided to come here, even if I did forget the travel adapter and the sunscreen. Tomorrow will be another exciting day, and I can't wait to see what adventures await us on the path ahead.