Family Pilgrimage to Kumano Kodo: Exploring Japan's Sacred Trails

Whispers of the Ancients

Today was a day of deep reflection and physical challenge as we traversed the ancient paths of Kumano Kodo. The blend of natural beauty and spiritual resonance made it an unforgettable experience, one that I am excited to share. From mountain crossings to serene shrines, every moment felt like stepping back in time.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Sansaro Cafe. It's a cozy little place that I had read about, known for its emphasis on natural, high-quality ingredients. It was the perfect way to fuel up for the day's main event: crossing the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. The cafe is conveniently located near a bus stop, making it easy to access from various points along the Kumano Kodo. The kids enjoyed their simple breakfast, and Greta and I savored the strong coffee, a taste of home away from home, reminiscent of our mornings in Bamberg. I even had a brief chat with the owner about traditional Iranian music, finding a surprising connection in this remote corner of Japan.


Experience warm hospitality at Sansaro Cafe in Shingu – your cozy retreat with delightful coffee and local charm along the Kumano Kodo.

The Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing was nothing short of breathtaking. The trails meandered through lush landscapes and towering mountains, offering panoramic views at every turn. The fresh mountain air was invigorating, and the peaceful atmosphere provided a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life. It was a challenging hike, but the well-marked trails made it accessible for all of us, even Kian, who, despite his initial complaints, ended up leading the charge with boundless energy. The vibrant greens of the Wakayama region in late spring were a feast for the eyes, and I made sure to capture as much as possible with my camera. I was glad I had packed my hiking boots; I would have been miserable in anything else. I felt a pang of regret for forgetting my travel adapter, though. Keeping all our devices charged proved to be a bit of a challenge.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The journey through Kumano Kodo is not just a hike; it's a passage through time, connecting us to the spiritual heart of Japan.

For lunch, we stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a charming visitor center housed in a beautifully renovated 130-year-old house. This building is designated as a national tangible cultural property. They offered local specialties and takeaway snacks. It felt like stepping back into traditional Japan. We tried Mehari-zushi, a local delicacy from Kumano City, and Kian devoured it. Greta picked up some mikan, sweet citrus fruits that are a specialty of the area. The Omotenashi-Kan also provided a welcome opportunity to rest our weary feet and learn more about the history and culture of the Kumano Kodo.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

In the afternoon, we visited Kumano Hayatama Taisha, one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three grand shrines of Kumano. This grand shrine is said to have been built as a place to worship the gods who had descended to earth. The main deities are Kumano Hayatama no Okami and Kumano Fusumi no Okami, who are husband and wife. The shrine exuded a sense of tranquility and reverence. We took our time exploring the grounds, admiring the beautiful vermilion-lacquered buildings and the ancient Nagi tree, which is over 1,000 years old and is considered a natural monument. I bought an Omamori lucky charm for each of us, hoping for good health and safe travels. Kian was fascinated by the Kumano Go-o Hoin Sacred Amulet, with its design incorporating symbols of birds. We also spent some time browsing the shops near the shrine. I picked up a few souvenirs, including a beautiful calligraphy set for Greta, knowing she would appreciate the artistry and history behind it.


Discover the tranquility and spiritual heritage of Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Shingu, Wakayama, Japan.

For dinner, we decided to treat ourselves to a meal at Hinoki Steak House. After a day of hiking and exploring, we were all craving something hearty and satisfying. The restaurant is known for its Kumano beef hamburg steaks, and they did not disappoint. I opted for the half-and-half lunch set, which included both tuna and Kumano beef hamburg steaks. Greta chose the Kumano beef hamburg steak, cooked rare. Kian, of course, went for the classic hamburg lunch set. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the service was excellent. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I am struck by the profound sense of connection I feel to this place and its history. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it is a journey of self-discovery and spiritual renewal. I am grateful to be able to share this experience with my family, and I look forward to what tomorrow will bring.


Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead [if it is not raining], where we will continue our exploration of these sacred trails. I'm also looking forward to trying the KUMANOYASAI CAFE for breakfast and Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall for lunch [if we manage to arrive there on time]. And if the kids allow, I might sneak off to HANGOVER for a quick drink in the evening.


Good night from Kumano Kodo!