Solo Cultural Exploration in Kanazawa

Echoes of the Edo Period

Today was a journey into the heart of Kanazawa's preserved history, a day spent wandering through the remnants of geisha culture and the lives of samurai foot soldiers. It's amazing how much history is concentrated in this one city; every corner seems to whisper tales of a bygone era. It's days like these that remind me why I love to travel, to immerse myself in different cultures and learn about the lives of those who came before us.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Umi & Tsuchi. I was keen to try their unique take on French cuisine with Japanese ingredients. I must say that it was a very interesting start to the day, with the restaurant managing to create a fusion of flavors that was both comforting and exciting. It's these unexpected culinary experiences that really make a trip memorable.


Discover exquisite Kaiseki dining at Umi & Tsuchi, where Kyoto's culinary traditions meet modern elegance in Kanazawa.

With a full stomach, I set off to explore the Higashi Chaya District, my destination being the Geisha House Shima. The autumn air was crisp as I wandered through the streets, the traditional wooden buildings transporting me back in time. It felt as though I was walking through a living museum, each step echoing with the stories of geishas who once graced these very streets.


Explore Geisha House Shima in Kanazawa: Step back in time and discover the captivating world of geisha culture in a preserved Edo-era teahouse.

Visiting the Geisha House Shima was like stepping into a world of elegance and artistry. The house itself is beautifully preserved, and the exhibits offered a glimpse into the lives of the geishas who once lived and worked there. I wandered through the rooms, imagining the music, laughter, and conversations that once filled these spaces. It's fascinating to think about the level of skill and dedication required to become a geisha, and the important role they played in Japanese society.

The past is never dead. It's not even past.

One of the highlights of my visit was the tea room, where I enjoyed a cup of matcha while overlooking the serene garden. The tea was expertly prepared, and the combination of the bitter matcha and sweet wagashi was a delight to the senses. It was a moment of tranquility amidst the bustling city, a chance to reflect on the history and culture that surrounded me.

Leaving the Geisha House Shima, I felt a deeper appreciation for the artistry and grace of geisha culture. It's a world that is often misunderstood, but one that is rich in tradition and beauty. I was glad to have had the opportunity to experience it firsthand.

Next on my itinerary was the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum, a stark contrast to the opulence of the geisha district. This museum offered a glimpse into the lives of the ashigaru, the foot soldiers who formed the backbone of the samurai armies. Unlike the wealthy samurai, the ashigaru lived modest lives, and their homes reflected their humble status.


Explore the rich legacy of Japan's foot soldiers at the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum, where history comes alive through engaging exhibits and artifacts.

Walking through the preserved residences, I was struck by the simplicity of their lives. The homes were small and sparsely furnished, but they were also clean and well-maintained. It was clear that the ashigaru took pride in their homes and their families.

It's easy to get caught up in the stories of the great samurai warriors, but it's important to remember that they were supported by a vast network of foot soldiers who played a crucial role in their success. The Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum offered a valuable perspective on the lives of these often-overlooked individuals.

After immersing myself in history, it was time for lunch. I headed to Gyohan, a restaurant known for its traditional Kaga cuisine. I decided to try one of their set meals, which included a variety of local seafood dishes. The food was absolutely delicious, and I enjoyed trying new and unfamiliar flavors. The staff were friendly and helpful, and they even provided a translation of the menu in English.


Experience the essence of Japanese culture through exquisite dishes at Gyohan in Kanazawa.

With a full stomach once again, I decided to indulge in a little retail therapy at Kanazawa Loft. This store is a treasure trove of unique Japanese goods, from cosmetics to stationery to household items. I spent ages wandering through the aisles, admiring the beautiful designs and innovative products.


Explore Kanazawa Loft: Your ultimate shopping destination for cosmetics, home goods, and unique Japanese novelties in the heart of Kanazawa.

I ended up buying a few souvenirs for Emily and Oliver, as well as a couple of items for myself. I'm always on the lookout for unique stationery, and Kanazawa Loft did not disappoint. I found some beautiful washi paper and a set of calligraphy pens that I can't wait to use.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way to Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calme for dinner. This French restaurant with a Japanese twist had been highly recommended, and I was eager to experience it for myself. The restaurant is small and intimate, with only a few tables, which created a cozy and relaxed atmosphere.


Experience exquisite French cuisine in the serene ambiance of Kanazawa's Installation Table ENSO L'asymetrie du calme.

The food was simply divine. Each dish was a work of art, both in terms of presentation and flavor. The chef used local, seasonal ingredients to create innovative and delicious dishes that were a feast for the senses. The service was impeccable, and the staff were knowledgeable and passionate about the food they were serving.

It was the perfect end to a perfect day. As I walked back to the hotel, I reflected on all that I had seen and done. I had explored the elegance of geisha culture, the simplicity of samurai life, and the artistry of Japanese cuisine. It was a day that had enriched my understanding of Japan and its people, and one that I would never forget.

Tomorrow, I'm planning to visit Kotoji Toro (Stone Lantern) and Kasumiga-ike Pond, both located in Kenrokuen Garden. I've heard that the garden is especially beautiful in the autumn, so I'm looking forward to seeing the fall foliage. I might also check out Bar Spoon in the evening for a nightcap, but we will see.

As I settle in for the night, I can't help but feel grateful for the opportunity to travel and experience new cultures. It's a privilege that I don't take for granted, and one that I hope to continue for many years to come. And who knows, maybe one day I'll bring Emily and Oliver here and show them all the wonderful things that Kanazawa has to offer. After all, sharing these experiences with loved ones is what makes them even more special. Until then, it's goodnight from Kanazawa.

I am thinking of Emily and Oliver back home in Halifax, and I know Oliver would have enjoyed seeing the samurai houses. Maybe one day I can bring them both to Japan, and show them all the cool things I have seen. Also, I should probably get a portable charger, as it would be useful for days like this.