Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Day 10: Subterranean Wonders and Sacred Heights

Today's journey was a fascinating blend of natural wonders and spiritual exploration. From the depths of a limestone cave to the heights of an ancient shrine, Kumano continues to surprise and inspire. It’s days like these that remind me why I embarked on this solo pilgrimage – to discover the unexpected and connect with something larger than myself.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin, the familiar comfort of traditional Japanese fare setting the stage for the adventures ahead. I savored the simple flavors, knowing I'd need the energy for the day’s explorations. With a full stomach and a sense of anticipation, I set out to explore the Totsui Limestone Cave.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

Journey into the Earth: Totsui Limestone Cave

The Totsui Limestone Cave was a fascinating experience. As I approached the entrance, I was immediately struck by the contrast between the lush, green surroundings and the dark, mysterious opening in the hillside. The cave was formed over 250 million years ago. The entrance itself is part of an old mine shaft, a relic from when the area was mined for limestone in the early 20th century. It’s incredible to think that this place, now a site of natural beauty, once served a very different purpose.


Discover the enchanting Totsui Limestone Cave in Wakayama, a natural wonder filled with stunning rock formations and rich geological history.

Inside, the cave was a cool, damp world of stalactites and stalagmites. The path wound narrowly through the chambers, sometimes requiring me to duck and stoop to navigate the tight spaces. The lighting accentuated the details and coloration of the calcite formations. Some of the formations had whimsical names like the 'Crab Tunnel' and 'Bee's Nest Rock,' sparking my imagination as I tried to discern the shapes they resembled. The air was still and heavy with the scent of minerals, a stark contrast to the fresh, open air outside.

Sometimes, the greatest adventures are found in the quietest, most unexpected corners of the world.

The cave wasn't very large; the path stretched only about 100 meters. But every meter was filled with unique geological features. The colors in the cave, ranging from whitish to hints of orange, red, and black, were particularly intriguing. I learned that these colors are due to minerals and acids in the surface vegetation and soil. It's amazing how nature, over millions of years, can create such intricate and beautiful formations.

Emerging from the cave, I felt a sense of awe and wonder. It was a humbling experience to be surrounded by such ancient and delicate formations, a reminder of the immense power and patience of nature. I made sure to take a few photos, hoping to capture the magic of the place, though I knew no photo could truly do it justice.

Ascent to the Divine: Kamikura Shrine

After my subterranean adventure, I made my way to Kamikura Shrine. This ancient shrine is located halfway up Mount Gongen-yama and is believed to be one of the oldest sacred sites in the Kumano region. Reaching it required climbing 538 steep stone steps, a challenge I was ready to embrace.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.

As I began my ascent, the steps were indeed steep, some at a 45-degree angle. With each step, the views of Shingu City and the Kumano-nada Sea became more breathtaking. It was a hot day, and the climb was strenuous, but the anticipation of reaching the shrine kept me going. I paused a few times to catch my breath and take in the scenery, appreciating the beauty of the landscape.

Finally, I reached the top, and the sight of Kamikura Shrine was truly awe-inspiring. The shrine is built around a massive, sacred rock called Gotobiki-iwa, revered as the dwelling place of one of the shrine's deities. The rock is so large and imposing that it dwarfs the shrine itself, creating a sense of primal power and spirituality. I spent some time simply gazing at the rock, trying to absorb its energy and significance. It's easy to see why this place has been considered sacred for centuries.

The panoramic views from the shrine were stunning. I could see the entire Shingu area and the vast expanse of the Kumano-nada Sea stretching out to the horizon. I took a moment to reflect on my journey so far, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such incredible places. The climb had been worth it, not just for the physical challenge, but for the spiritual reward of reaching this sacred site.

A Taste of Kumano: Yunomine Onsen and Akihei

With the day winding down, it was time to satisfy my appetite. For lunch, I headed to Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, a charming spot in the heart of Yunomine Onsen. This area is famous for its hot springs, and the dining hall offered a variety of traditional dishes made with local ingredients. I opted for a teishoku set, a balanced meal with rice, miso soup, and a selection of side dishes. It was the perfect way to refuel after a day of exploration.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yunomine Onsen Shop/Dining Hall, where tradition meets tranquility in Wakayama's historic hot spring town.

In the evening, I made my way to Akihei in Shingu for dinner. This restaurant came highly recommended for its authentic Japanese cuisine, and I was eager to try it. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and the menu was filled with tempting options. I decided on the kushikatsu, deep-fried skewers that are a local specialty. Each skewer was perfectly crispy and flavorful, and I savored every bite.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.

Evening Reflections at Why Kumano

To cap off the day, I decided to check out Why Kumano, a local bar known for its relaxed atmosphere. Located conveniently near Kii-Katsuura Station, it was the perfect place to unwind and reflect on the day’s adventures. I enjoyed a local craft beer, chatting with some of the other travelers and locals. It was a great way to connect with people and learn more about the area.


Experience the perfect blend of comfort, culture, and culinary delights at Why Kumano, your gateway to the enchanting Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

As I sipped my beer, I thought about the incredible experiences I had today. From the depths of the Totsui Limestone Cave to the heights of Kamikura Shrine, Kumano had once again revealed its beauty and mystery. It was a day filled with both physical challenges and spiritual rewards, a perfect representation of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Fudarakusan-ji Temple and Kumano Kodo Park. I’m also hoping to do some shopping at the Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu. Another day of exploration awaits, and I can’t wait to see what Kumano has in store for me. Before heading back to Jokiin, I took one last look at the stars, feeling grateful for the journey and the peace it has brought me.