Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

A Day of Serenity and Discovery

Today was a day of quiet reflection and delightful surprises as I continued my solo pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo. The journey has been a profound experience, allowing me to connect with the spiritual heart of Japan and appreciate the simple beauty of its landscapes. It's funny how a solo trip can sometimes feel less lonely than being surrounded by noise back home in Toronto. Perhaps it's the quiet that allows your own thoughts to surface and keep you company.

My day began with a peaceful breakfast at Jokiin, the shukubo where I’m staying in Koya. The traditional Japanese breakfast was a perfect start to the day, fueling me for the adventures ahead. I enjoyed the simple, yet flavorful dishes, each bite a reminder of the care and tradition that permeates Japanese culture. After breakfast, I checked out of the wonderful accommodation and began my journey to explore more of the Kumano region.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

The first stop was Fudarakusan-ji, a Tendai Buddhist temple with a fascinating history. The temple is named after Mount Potalaka, the mythical dwelling place of the Buddhist bodhisattva Avalokiteśvara. Founded over a thousand years ago by an Indian monk named Ragyō Shōnin, the temple has a rich spiritual heritage. What struck me most was the story of *Fudaraku Tokai*, a practice where monks would set sail in small boats, essentially self-made coffins, to reach Fudaraku, the Buddhist paradise. It was a ritual of self-sacrifice, a final act of devotion, and it spoke volumes about the deep-seated beliefs of the time.


Explore the tranquility of Fudarakusan-ji, a beautiful Buddhist temple in Wakayama, Japan, where spirituality meets stunning natural landscapes.

The journey of self-discovery is often found in the quiet moments of reflection, where the whispers of the past guide our path forward.

The temple itself was serene, with a replica of the boat used in the *Fudaraku Tokai* ritual on display. It was a somber reminder of the monks' dedication and the lengths they would go to for their faith. Wandering through the temple grounds, I felt a sense of peace and reverence, contemplating the stories and history that echoed through the ancient stones.

Next, I headed to Kumano Kodo Park, a beautiful natural space that showcases the region's stunning landscapes. The park offered a chance to immerse myself in the lush greenery and appreciate the serene beauty of the Kumano Kodo. I took a leisurely stroll, enjoying the fresh air and the sounds of nature. It was a welcome break, allowing me to recharge and connect with the environment that has drawn pilgrims to this region for centuries.


Explore the tranquil beauty of Kumano Kodo Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site rich in nature and spirituality in Wakayama, Japan.

For lunch, I stopped at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan, a restaurant that celebrates local cuisine. The building itself is a beautifully renovated house, designated as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property. I savored a delicious meal featuring regional specialties, each dish a testament to the local flavors and culinary traditions. The *omotenashi* (hospitality) was exceptional, making the dining experience even more enjoyable.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

After lunch, I made a stop at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, a roadside shop offering local crafts and produce. It was a great opportunity to pick up some souvenirs and support the local community. I found some beautifully crafted items and a few local snacks to enjoy later. I even managed to find some Otonashi tea, a local tea grown in the Kumano area since the late Heian period. It was a unique souvenir, a taste of the region's history and culture.


Discover local flavors and beautiful scenery at Road Station Oku-kumanokodo Hongu, the ideal rest stop in Wakayama Prefecture.

As the day drew to a close, I checked into my accommodation in Shingu and decided to treat myself to dinner at Hinoki Steak House. After days of traditional Japanese cuisine, I was in the mood for something different. The steak house is known for its Kumano beef and Japanese black beef steaks, as well as fresh grilled seafood. I opted for a Kumano beef steak, cooked to perfection. It was a delightful meal, a perfect end to a day of spiritual reflections and cultural discoveries. The steak was delicious, a tender and flavorful reward after a long day of exploring. It reminded me of the good old days back in Trinidad, where a good cut of meat was always a reason to celebrate.


Experience the exquisite flavors of premium steaks at Hinoki Steak House in Nachikatsuura - where every bite is crafted with care.

Interestingly, I learned that the Shingu Fireworks Display, originally scheduled for earlier in the month, had been postponed to today, August 20th. However, due to concerns about potential earthquake risks, there was a chance it might be further postponed or even canceled. While I was a bit disappointed, safety comes first, and I understood the decision. Instead, I enjoyed a quiet evening, reflecting on the day's experiences and preparing for tomorrow's adventures.

Tomorrow, I plan to explore the Kumano-Kodo Nakahechi Route (Chikatsuyu-Oji - Kobiro-Oji Section) and Yoshino Kumano National Park. I’m looking forward to more hiking and immersing myself in the natural beauty of this region. I might even stop by the Kumano Club Resort for a drink in the evening, a little treat after a day of hiking.

This solo pilgrimage has been an incredible journey so far, filled with moments of peace, discovery, and connection. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a trail; it's a pathway to understanding Japan's spiritual heart and the enduring power of its traditions. It's a reminder that sometimes, the greatest adventures are found in the quietest corners of the world. And it's definitely a story I'll be sharing with Priya and Devon when I get back to Toronto. They would have loved to experience this with me. Maybe next time!

I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings. Until then, *sayonara* from the Kumano Kodo.