Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the River Gods

Today was a day of serene exploration, a gentle dance between nature's grandeur and the quiet whispers of ancient spirits. The kind of day that reminds you why you travel, why you seek out these moments of peace and reflection. It was a day to soak in the beauty of the Kumano region, letting the landscape speak to the soul.

My day began as most days here have, with a delightful breakfast at Jokiin. I swear, Priya would love this place. The simple, traditional Japanese fare sets the tone perfectly for a day of exploration and contemplation. I savored every bite, knowing that I had a full day ahead of me, filled with natural beauty and cultural immersion. I made sure to thank the staff, offering a grateful 'arigato' before heading out for the day's adventure.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

My first stop was the breathtaking Doro Kyo Gorge. The plan was to immerse myself in its famed scenic beauty. The gorge is part of the Yoshino-Kumano National Park, and the views did not disappoint. The towering cliffs, sculpted by centuries of erosion, rose dramatically from the emerald green waters of the Kitayama River. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. I could see why this place is considered a special scenic beauty and natural monument by the Japanese government. I've got to get Devon here someday; he'd love exploring the caves and megaliths.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.

I learned that the Doro Kyo Gorge is famed for being the valley where three prefectures meet. Apparently, Mie Prefecture borders both Wakayama and Nara prefectures here. There's even a Yamabiko Bridge connecting Mie and Nara, where you can shout and hear your echo bounce back from the valley. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to explore the bridge, but I made a mental note to return someday.

Next on the agenda was the Kumano Boat River Cruise. This was an experience I had been particularly looking forward to, as it offered a unique perspective on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route. The Kumano-gawa River was once a vital section of the pilgrimage, connecting Kumano Hongu Taisha in Hongu and Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu. I felt a sense of connection to the ancient pilgrims as I boarded the traditional wooden flat-bottom boat.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

The boat tour was a relaxing and informative journey through the heart of Kumano's spiritual landscape. The guide shared stories of the river's history and significance, pointing out various landmarks along the way. I learned about Aoinotaki Falls, the Tsurigane (Temple Bell) Stone, and the sacred Mt. Chihogamine. The scenery was simply stunning, with lush greenery and towering cliffs lining the riverbanks. The gentle rocking of the boat and the soothing sound of the water created a sense of tranquility. I was able to relax and reflect on my journey so far.

The river is a constant reminder of the passage of time, the enduring power of nature, and the deep spiritual roots of this land.

I discovered that the boat tours are equipped with motors now, so you move along faster than the pilgrims of old. The tour lasted about 90 minutes, and I was a little disappointed that we didn't get to disembark on Bone Island, but it was still a wonderful experience. I can imagine the autumn leaves would make this tour even more spectacular.

After the boat tour, I made my way to Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for lunch. This charming eatery is known for its local specialties, and I was eager to try some of the regional cuisine. I opted for the Mehari-zushi, a type of sushi made with pickled mustard leaves. It was a unique and delicious dish, the tangy flavor of the mustard leaves complementing the savory rice and fish. I also had a bowl of udon noodles with chicken, which was hearty and satisfying. The staff were incredibly friendly, sharing stories about the local culture and the history of the Kumano Kodo. I even learned how to make Mehari-zushi myself, a skill I can't wait to try out back in Toronto for Priya, Devon and friends.


Discover Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan: A charming cafe offering delicious coffee and local cuisine along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

Before dinner, I popped into Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN, a local shop, to pick up a few souvenirs. I found a beautiful hand-painted fan for Priya and a small wooden carving of a bear for Devon. I also picked up a Kumano Kodo stamp booklet as a memento of my pilgrimage. It's a fun way to remember the places I've visited and the experiences I've had. I'm hoping to collect as many stamps as possible along the way.


Explore local crafts and delightful souvenirs at the Triple Kumano Kodo Souvenir Store, a unique stop along Japan's historic pilgrimage route.

For dinner, I decided to try Kumagoro, a local restaurant known for its sushi and Japanese cuisine. I ordered a selection of sushi rolls, each one bursting with fresh and flavorful ingredients. The service was excellent, and the atmosphere was warm and inviting. It was the perfect way to end a perfect day, a chance to savor the flavors of Japan and to reflect on the experiences I had had. I noticed that Kumagoro has been around for a while, which is always a good sign.


Experience the essence of traditional izakaya dining at Kumagoro in Shingu - where authentic flavors meet warm hospitality.

As I sit here now, writing in my travel journal, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences I've had today. The beauty of the Doro Kyo Gorge, the serenity of the Kumano River, and the warmth of the local people have all touched my heart. This pilgrimage is more than just a journey through Japan; it's a journey within myself. It's a chance to connect with nature, with history, and with the spiritual essence of this land. I am so looking forward to what tomorrow brings, as I plan to visit the Totsui Limestone Cave and Kamikura Shrine. I'm also excited to try some local sake at Why Kumano. It’s supposed to be a great place to unwind after a day of exploring.

Good night from Kumano.