Solo Pilgrimage on Japan's Kumano Kodo

Finding Myself on the Shiomi-togego'e Trail

Today was a day of physical challenge and spiritual reflection, perfectly embodying what I sought on this solo pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo. The path led me through the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass, a trail that tested my endurance but rewarded me with breathtaking views and a profound sense of accomplishment. It was a day where the beauty of nature intertwined with personal contemplation, reminding me of the simple joys and inner strength I sometimes forget back in Toronto.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Jokiin [Breakfast, i], the same serene temple lodging in Koyasan that has become my home base. Knowing I had a challenging hike ahead, I fueled up with a traditional Japanese breakfast, which included rice, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. It's amazing how such simple fare can provide the energy needed for a day of trekking. I even managed to remember to pack my rain jacket this time, learning from yesterday's minor mishap. Fully prepared, I set off to tackle the trails.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.

The Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing was everything I had anticipated and more. The ascent was demanding, winding through lush landscapes and towering mountains. The air was crisp and clean, a welcome change from Toronto's city smog. As I climbed higher, the views became increasingly spectacular, offering panoramic vistas of the Wakayama region. I paused frequently, not just to catch my breath but also to soak in the scenery and capture it with my camera. I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me, a feeling that’s been rare in my hectic life as a software developer. I thought of Priya and Devon back home, missing them but also appreciating this time for myself.


Discover the breathtaking hiking trails of Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass Crossing in Wakayama, where nature's beauty meets adventure.

The mountains are calling and I must go. - John Muir

Reaching the summit was a moment of pure exhilaration. The sense of accomplishment was immense, knowing I had conquered this physical challenge. I sat for a while, gazing at the landscape, feeling a deep connection to nature and a sense of gratitude for this experience. The solitude allowed me to reflect on my life, my goals, and my relationships. It's moments like these that make me realize how important it is to step away from the daily grind and reconnect with myself.

After descending from the pass, I made my way to the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead. This trail is known for its spiritual significance, and as I walked, I could feel a palpable sense of history and reverence. The path was lined with ancient trees and moss-covered stones, creating an atmosphere of timelessness. I took my time, walking slowly and mindfully, paying attention to the sounds of the forest and the feel of the earth beneath my feet. It was a meditative experience, allowing me to quiet my mind and find a sense of inner peace. I even spotted a few other pilgrims along the way, exchanging smiles and nods of acknowledgment.


Discover the Kumano Kodo Dainichietsu trailhead, where ancient paths meet stunning natural beauty in Wakayama, Japan.

Lunch was at Onigajō cliff Center, and it was quite the experience. Located on the second floor, Ristorante Marina offered stunning views of the ocean and the unique rock formations of Onigajo. I opted for the Kumano chicken oyakodon, which was recommended for its tender and flavorful chicken. It was a satisfying meal, and the view made it even more enjoyable. The cliff center itself was fascinating, showcasing the geological wonders of the area. I learned about the rock formations and the history of the site, adding an educational element to my day.


Experience authentic Mie Prefecture cuisine at Onigajō Cliff Center while enjoying breathtaking coastal views and unique souvenirs.

As evening approached, I headed to Kumano to experience some local flavors. I had dinner at Tororoya, a restaurant known for its healthy and delicious dishes made with Yamato potato. I ordered the tororo meshi, which came with free refills of barley rice. It was a comforting and nourishing meal, perfect after a long day of hiking. The restaurant had a cozy atmosphere, and the staff were friendly and welcoming.


Experience authentic Japanese flavors at Tororoya in Tanabe, Wakayama—an essential stop on your culinary journey through Japan.

Before heading back to Jokiin, I decided to check out Kumano Winery Guest House /Dal Chef’s Table. Although primarily a guest house, it's also known for its excellent wine and farm-to-table dining experience. I sampled a glass of local wine and enjoyed the peaceful setting, surrounded by vineyards and mountains. The owners were incredibly hospitable, sharing stories about their winery and the region. It was a delightful way to end the day, savoring the flavors of Kumano and enjoying the company of locals.


Discover the perfect blend of relaxation, Italian cuisine, and fine wines at Kumano Winery Guest House in Wakayama.

As I reflect on today, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences and the lessons learned. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a hiking trail; it's a journey of self-discovery and spiritual growth. The physical challenges push me to my limits, while the natural beauty and the cultural experiences nourish my soul. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow's adventure, which includes exploring the Doro Kyo Gorge and taking a Kumano Boat River Cruise. I'm also excited to try the local cuisine at Kumano Kodo Omotenashi-Kan for lunch and Kumagoro for dinner. And perhaps a little shopping at Triple Kumano Kodo JAPAN.

I'm reminded of a quote from a fellow traveler I met on the trail today:

Sometimes, the most scenic roads in life are the detours you didn't mean to take.

Good night from Kumano Kodo.