Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

A Whirlwind Start in Fes

After a smooth flight from Berlin, we've finally landed in Fes, ready to plunge into the heart of Moroccan culture. The initial plan was to take it easy on our first day, but as any seasoned traveler knows, the best stories often come from spontaneous detours and unexpected discoveries. Today was no exception, and I'm already bursting to share our first impressions of this captivating city.

Our Fassi adventure began, as most good days do, with a hearty breakfast. We headed to Cafe Clock, a place I'd read about that promised a funky atmosphere and a menu that caters to both traditional and adventurous palates. Tucked away down a narrow alley, the cafe was a welcome respite from the bustling medina. The multi-level space was adorned with quirky art, and we snagged a spot on the rooftop terrace overlooking the city. I opted for a classic Moroccan mint tea, while Hans, ever the daring one, decided to try the camel burger. Saoirse, predictably, went for the familiar comfort of a grilled chicken sandwich. The mint tea was fragrant and refreshing, and even Hans admitted that the camel burger was surprisingly tasty, comparing it to a thick, chewy sausage.

Fueled up and ready to explore, our first official stop was the Bou Inania Madrasa. This 14th-century theological college is an architectural masterpiece, and I was eager to see it in person. As we approached, the intricate details of the building's facade immediately caught my eye. The massive brass doors hinted at the treasures within, and we stepped inside, leaving the noise of the medina behind. The madrasa's courtyard was a tranquil oasis, with a central fountain and meticulously carved walls. Saoirse was particularly fascinated by the colorful tilework, while Hans, ever the engineer, was impressed by the building's structural design. I found myself lost in the details of the carved stucco and the intricate woodwork, imagining the students who had once walked these halls centuries ago. It was easy to see why the Bou Inania Madrasa is considered one of the most important Merinid madrasas in Morocco; the craftsmanship is exquisite.


Explore the architectural beauty and cultural significance of Bou Inania Madrasa, an essential stop in the historic city of Fes, Morocco.

Travel is about the gorgeous feeling of teetering in the unknown.

Next on our list was Jnan Sbil, a sprawling garden on the edge of the medina. After the sensory overload of the madrasa, the gardens offered a welcome dose of nature and tranquility. We strolled along the winding paths, admiring the lush greenery and the tinkling fountains. Saoirse, ever the animal lover, was thrilled to spot peacocks and doves in the bird coops, while Hans and I enjoyed the shade of the towering palm trees. The gardens were a welcome escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, and we found ourselves lingering longer than we had planned, simply enjoying the peace and quiet. I can imagine this would be the perfect spot for a picnic, a little haven between the Medina and the Mellah.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil, a serene garden oasis in Fes, Morocco, perfect for relaxation and exploration amidst lush greenery.

Of course, no trip to Fes would be complete without getting lost in the Medina de Fès itself. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a labyrinth of narrow streets and bustling souks, and we were eager to dive in. As soon as we stepped through the Bab Bou Jeloud, the medina's iconic blue gate, we were immediately swept up in the chaos and energy of the place. The streets were crammed with people, donkeys, and carts, and the air was thick with the smell of spices, leather, and street food. Saoirse was initially overwhelmed by the crowds, but she quickly got into the spirit of things, haggling with vendors and sampling local delicacies. We wandered through the souks, marveling at the colorful displays of textiles, ceramics, and metalwork. I was particularly drawn to the leather goods, while Hans was fascinated by the intricate metal lanterns. Saoirse, of course, was on the lookout for souvenirs, and she eventually settled on a small, hand-painted tagine. I made a mental note to remember to buy a power adapter, as I had forgotten to pack one, and my phone was already running low on battery.


Explore the vibrant heart of Morocco at the Médina de Fès, a UNESCO World Heritage site filled with rich history, artisan markets, and stunning architecture.

After a few hours of exploring the medina, we were starting to feel a bit peckish. We decided to grab lunch at The Ruined Garden, a restaurant I'd read about that promised a unique dining experience. Tucked away in a hidden corner of the medina, the restaurant was a true oasis. The setting was magical, with tables scattered among the ruins of an old building, surrounded by lush greenery and twinkling lights. The menu featured traditional Moroccan dishes with a modern twist, and we were eager to try it out. I opted for the lamb tagine, while Hans went for the pigeon bastilla. Saoirse, predictably, chose the chicken skewers. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was enchanting. It was the perfect place to relax and recharge after a long day of exploring. The staff were very kind and spoke English, and I noted that there were many vegan options available too.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting garden setting at The Ruined Garden in Fes.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we decided to do a bit of shopping before heading back to our riad. I was on the hunt for a beautiful Moroccan carpet, and I'd heard that Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques was the place to go. The shop was located in the heart of the medina, and as soon as we stepped inside, we were greeted by a dazzling array of carpets in every color and pattern imaginable. The owner, Abdul, was incredibly knowledgeable and helpful, guiding us through the different styles and designs. I was immediately drawn to a Berber carpet with intricate geometric patterns, while Hans was more interested in a vintage kilim. Saoirse, of course, had her own opinion, and she eventually convinced us to buy a small, brightly colored rug for her room back in Berlin. Abdul carefully packed our purchases, and we headed back to our riad, feeling satisfied with our first day of shopping. I am excited to bring a piece of Morocco home with me.


Explore the exquisite carpets and unique antiques at Coin Berbere, a family-owned gem in the heart of Fes, Morocco.

For our first dinner in Fes, we chose Restaurant Dar Hatim, a place recommended for its authentic Moroccan cuisine and intimate atmosphere. The restaurant is located in a beautifully restored family home in the Mellah, and as soon as we stepped inside, we felt like we were transported to another world. The dining room was exquisitely decorated, with intricate tilework, carved wooden ceilings, and plush cushions. The menu featured traditional Fassi dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. We started with a selection of Moroccan salads, followed by a choice of tagines and couscous. The food was absolutely delicious, and the service was impeccable. It felt like a privilege to be dining in such a beautiful and authentic setting. The lamb tagine was a standout, and Karima's take on the classic dish was the best I have ever tried.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

As we walked back to our riad after dinner, I couldn't help but smile. Our first day in Fes had been a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and smells, and we had already fallen in love with this magical city. From the architectural wonders of the Bou Inania Madrasa to the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil, from the bustling souks of the medina to the exquisite cuisine of Dar Hatim, every moment had been a feast for the senses. I'm already looking forward to tomorrow, when we plan to visit the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts, the Chouara Tannery, and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. I'm also hoping to find some time to relax at Mezzanine, a bar I spotted earlier today that looked like the perfect place to unwind after a long day of exploring.

Even though I forgot my portable phone charger and power adapter, and my phone is running low, it has been a wonderful first day and I can't wait for what tomorrow brings. I'm so glad I get to share these memories with Hans and Saoirse.