Family Adventure in the Heart of Fes

Fez Unveiled: A Day of Discovery

Today in Fes was a whirlwind of sensory experiences, a true immersion into the heart of Moroccan culture. From the pungent aromas of the tanneries to the delicate craftsmanship of woodworking and the spiritual aura of a sacred mausoleum, Fes has truly captivated my senses. Saoirse was especially fascinated, her curious eyes wide with wonder at every turn. Hans, ever the history buff, soaked in the rich tapestry of stories woven into the city's ancient walls. It was a day of shared moments and discoveries that I will cherish forever.

Our day began, as most do on holiday, with a search for caffeine and sustenance. We found ourselves drawn to Nagham Cafe, enticed by its promise of Moroccan and vegetarian delights. The cafe was nestled near Bab Boujloud, and it was the perfect spot to fuel up for the day's adventures. I opted for a traditional mint tea, while Hans enjoyed a strong coffee. Saoirse, ever adventurous, tried an orange salad, a local specialty. It was a simple breakfast, but the atmosphere was wonderful, and the gentle buzz of the city provided a perfect backdrop to our morning.


Savor authentic Moroccan cuisine and fast food delights at Nagham Cafe in Fès – where every bite tells a story.

Refreshed and ready to explore, we ventured into the heart of the medina, our first stop being the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century fondouk, the museum was a haven of intricate woodwork. The craftsmanship on display was simply breathtaking. From intricately carved doors and windows to delicate musical instruments and Berber locks, each piece told a story of Moroccan artistry. Saoirse was particularly taken with the old Qur'anic recitation boards, their surfaces worn smooth by years of use. Hans, meanwhile, was fascinated by the contrast between the Amazigh traditional styles and the more Andalusian designs of Fes. The museum itself was a work of art, its elegant courtyard providing a tranquil oasis from the bustling streets outside. We even enjoyed panoramic views from the rooftop cafe.


Discover the rich heritage of Moroccan craftsmanship at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts in historic Fes.

The true essence of Fes lies not just in its sights, but in the symphony of experiences that awaken the soul.

Next on our itinerary was a visit to the infamous Chouara Tannery. I had read about it, of course, but nothing could have prepared me for the assault on my senses. The air was thick with pungent aromas, a mix of dyes, animal hides, and… well, let's just say it was an experience. The sight before us was equally striking: a vast landscape of stone vessels filled with colorful dyes, men knee-deep in the vats, transforming raw hides into leather. It was a scene straight out of the Middle Ages, a testament to the enduring traditions of Fes. Saoirse, initially hesitant due to the smell, soon became captivated by the process, asking questions about the different dyes and techniques. Hans, ever the pragmatist, was interested in the history of the tannery, learning that it dates back almost a thousand years. Despite the initial shock to my nostrils, I couldn't help but be impressed by the skill and dedication of the artisans, their craft unchanged for centuries. The tannery is not only the largest of the three tanneries in the city, but also one of the oldest.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

After the intensity of the tannery, we sought solace in the spiritual heart of Fes, the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II. This sacred site is dedicated to the founder of Fes, a man deeply revered throughout Morocco. As non-Muslims, we were not allowed to enter the mausoleum itself, but we were able to admire its beauty from the outside. The intricate mosaics, the delicate stucco work, and the overall sense of peace and reverence were truly moving. I felt a sense of calm wash over me, a feeling of connection to something larger than myself. We learned that the mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage for Muslims, and that devotion to Moulay Idriss II has only grown since his body was discovered intact several centuries after his death. It was a reminder of the deep spiritual roots of this city, a place where faith and tradition are intertwined.


Experience the sacred beauty of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II in Fes, a historic site that embodies Moroccan spirituality and artistry.

By this point, our stomachs were rumbling, so we sought out Darori for lunch. Tucked away in a quiet corner of the medina, this restaurant promised an authentic Moroccan dining experience. The setting was charming, a cozy courtyard adorned with traditional décor. We started with a selection of Moroccan salads, a vibrant mix of flavors and textures. For our main courses, I opted for a chicken tagine with lemon and olives, while Hans chose a beef tagine with prunes and almonds. Saoirse, predictably, went for the chicken pastilla, a sweet and savory pie that is a Fassi specialty. The food was exquisite, each dish bursting with flavor. The service was impeccable, and we felt welcomed and cared for. It was a perfect culinary interlude in our day of exploration. Hassan, our waiter, gave us great directions home, which we appreciated as the streets around Fes can be a bit scary at night.


Discover the exquisite blend of Moroccan tradition and haute French cuisine at Darori in Fes – an unmissable dining experience.

As the sun began to set, we decided to treat ourselves to a drink at Mezzanine, a bar known for its lively atmosphere and panoramic views. We sipped on refreshing cocktails while enjoying the sunset over the city. Saoirse, of course, stuck to juice, but she enjoyed the music and the overall vibe of the place. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of sightseeing. I was thrilled to discover that they served the local beer. The bar had a quiet atmosphere, but we still had fun.


Experience the vibrant rooftop lounge in Fes, where stunning views meet delectable cuisine, creating the perfect escape for tourists.

For dinner, we decided on Les Mystères de Dar Tajine, drawn in by its promise of traditional Moroccan cuisine with a modern twist. The restaurant did not disappoint. The setting was magical, a beautifully decorated riad with a serene atmosphere. The food was delicious, each dish a work of art. I savored a traditional tagine, while Hans enjoyed a flavorful couscous. Saoirse tried the Moroccan pastries. We were given great Moroccan tea. The service was attentive and friendly, making us feel like honored guests.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine in Fes at Les Mystères de Dar Tajine, where tradition meets flavor in every dish.

As we walked back to our riad, the sounds of the city lulled us into a peaceful state. Today was a sensory symphony, a day of discovery and immersion into the heart of Fes. From the ancient crafts to the spiritual sites and the culinary delights, Fes has truly captured my heart. And to experience it with my family makes it all the more special.

Tomorrow, we plan to delve deeper into the medina, exploring Fes El Bali, the Aben Danan Synagogue, and the Andalusian Mosque. I am eager to uncover more of this city's hidden gems and share them with you all.