Family Adventure in the Cultural Heart of Japan: Kyoto

A Glimpse into Kyoto's Soul

Today was a day of quiet contemplation and breathtaking beauty as we explored some of Kyoto's most iconic temples. From the shimmering gold of Kinkaku-ji to the serene rock garden of Ryoan-ji and the imperial elegance of Ninna-ji, each stop offered a unique glimpse into the soul of this ancient city. It was a day of contrasts, blending the opulent with the austere, the natural with the meticulously crafted. And I am excited to share it with you!

Our day began with a delightful breakfast at Saishuan Shiraki. It's a cozy little place, and Miho, the owner, is so welcoming. She prepared a vegan feast with so many small courses—a true journey through traditional Japanese flavors. I was so glad to find a place that caters so well to vegetarians, making sure that everyone in my family enjoyed the breakfast. It was a perfect start to a day filled with cultural immersion.

First on our itinerary was Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion. As we approached, the sight of the temple shimmering in the morning sun took my breath away. It's hard to believe that this iconic structure was once a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. The gold leaf exterior, reflecting on the Mirror Pond, created a scene of ethereal beauty. I learned that the gold was intended to mitigate any pollution or negative thoughts, which made the experience even more profound.


Explore Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion of Kyoto, a stunning Zen Buddhist temple adorned in gold and surrounded by tranquil gardens and reflective ponds.

The history of Kinkaku-ji is fascinating. Originally built in 1397, it was converted into a Zen temple after Yoshimitsu's death. The temple has been rebuilt several times, most recently in 1955, after being burned down in 1950 by a monk. I was also fascinated to learn that each floor of the pavilion represents a different architectural style: the first floor in the Shinden style, the second in the Bukke style, and the third in the style of a Chinese Zen temple. Though we couldn't enter the pavilion, the statues of the Shaka Buddha and Yoshimitsu could be viewed from across the pond, adding to the experience.

As we strolled through the gardens, we came across Anmintaku Pond, said to never dry up, and statues where people throw coins for luck. We also visited the Sekkatei Teahouse, added during the Edo Period, before exiting the paid temple area. Outside the exit, souvenir shops offered matcha tea and sweets, and Fudo Hall housed a statue of Fudo Myoo, carved by Kobo Daishi. Elif was particularly taken with the souvenir shops, while Hans was fascinated by the teahouse. It was a moment where the beauty of the temple blended seamlessly with the everyday.

From the shimmering spectacle of Kinkaku-ji, we traveled to the tranquil Ryoan-ji. The contrast was striking, yet both temples evoked a sense of peace. Ryoan-ji is famous for its Zen garden, a masterpiece of minimalist design. Fifteen rocks are arranged in five groups on a bed of white gravel, and it's said that only fourteen can be seen at any one time. The garden is meant to be viewed from a seated position on the veranda of the hōjō, the residence of the abbot, encouraging meditation.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Ryōan-ji in Kyoto, a renowned Zen temple known for its iconic rock garden and rich cultural heritage.

The beauty of the Ryoan-ji garden lies not in what is present, but in what is suggested – a landscape of the mind, inviting contemplation and inner peace.

As I sat on the veranda, I tried to understand the deeper meaning of the garden. Some say the rocks represent islands in a sea, or mountain peaks above the clouds. Others believe the garden is an abstract composition designed to incite meditation. Garden historian Gunter Nitschke believed that the garden does not symbolize anything, but is an abstract composition of natural objects in space, whose function is to incite meditation. Whatever the interpretation, the garden exuded a sense of calm that washed over me. The meticulous raking of the gravel, the placement of the rocks, and the surrounding wall all contributed to an atmosphere of profound serenity.

We also explored the Kyoyo Pond, a historic garden where aristocrats once enjoyed boating. The pond reflected the beauty of the surrounding nature, offering a striking contrast to the tranquil rock garden. It was a moment of harmony, blending the natural with the carefully cultivated.

Our final stop of the day was Ninna-ji Temple, founded in 888 by Emperor Uda. This temple is the head temple of the Omuro school of the Shingon sect of Buddhism and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ninna-ji is known for its imperial connections, with a member of the Imperial Family serving as head priest for many centuries. The buildings were reconstructed in the 17th century, including a five-story pagoda and a grove of late-blooming dwarf cherry trees called Omuro Cherries.


Discover the tranquility and beauty of Ninna-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kyoto, showcasing stunning architecture and serene gardens.

As we entered through the Niomon gate, guarded by two fierce Nio statues, I felt a sense of stepping back in time. The temple's history is rich and complex, having been destroyed by fire in 1467 during the Ōnin War and rebuilt with the help of Tokugawa Iemitsu. The main hall (Kondo), the Kannon Hall, and the five-storied pagoda are all testaments to the temple's enduring legacy.

The highlight of our visit was the Goten, the former residence of the head priest, built in the style of an imperial palace. The graceful buildings, connected by covered corridors, featured elegantly painted sliding doors and were surrounded by beautiful rock and pond gardens. Though it's still too early in March for the Omuro Cherries, I can only imagine how beautiful this place must be in April when the cherry trees are in full bloom. I made a mental note to perhaps return next month to witness this spectacle.

After a long day of temple visits, we were ready for a hearty dinner. We chose Hafuu for dinner, a restaurant specializing in wagyu beef. The restaurant is tucked away in a residential area near the Imperial Palace, offering a mix of traditional and contemporary ambiance.


Discover Hafuu in Kyoto: where premium Japanese beef meets culinary excellence in an elegant setting.

Hafuu has been in business for over a century, and the chef owns a meat shop, ensuring incredible quality meat. We opted for the tasting menus, allowing us to sample a variety of beef dishes. The lightly roasted beef appetizer was cooked perfectly rare with a smoky flavor. The thinly sliced brisket with salt-based sauce was another standout dish, with a potent smoky flavor that went well with glazed onions.

The sirloin steak was rich and decadent, while the fillet was beautifully cooked medium rare with a juicy and buttery texture. The chef even stopped by our table to inquire about our thoughts, adding a personal touch to the dining experience. It was a perfect end to a day filled with cultural and culinary delights. Hans was particularly impressed with the chef's cooking technique, while Elif loved the wagyu beef sandwich.

Before heading back to our hotel, Tokyu Stay Kyoto Sanjo-Karasuma, we made a quick stop at Kyoto LOFT. It's a multi-floor emporium with an eclectic mix of stylish and practical items, from home goods to stationery and accessories. Elif was in her element, browsing through the trendy items. I picked up a few small gifts for friends back in Stuttgart, while Hans found some interesting stationery. It was a fun way to unwind after a day of temple visits.


Explore Kyoto LOFT: A vibrant general store with cosmetics, home goods, and unique novelties in the heart of Kyoto.

As I reflect on today's experiences, I am struck by the profound sense of peace and beauty that permeates Kyoto. Each temple, each garden, each meal was a unique and unforgettable experience. Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Kyoto Imperial Palace and the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden. I'm also looking forward to trying The Common One Bar Kyoto. I'm excited to see what new wonders await us as we continue our family adventure in this enchanting city.

There were a few events happening in Kyoto today, like the Nagashibina Ceremony at Shimogamo Shrine, associated with the Doll Festival, where paper dolls are floated down a river to ward off misfortune. Also, the Monet: The Water Lilies exhibition opened at the Kyoto City Kyocera Museum of Art. But we were so focused on our temple visits that we didn't get a chance to attend. Perhaps on another trip!

Kyoto continues to surprise and delight me with its blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. It's a city that truly nourishes the soul, and I am grateful for the opportunity to share these experiences with my family.

Looking forward to sharing more of our Kyoto adventure with you tomorrow!