Carmen's Solo Adventure Through the Historical Wonders of Kyoto

Sacred Sanctuaries and Hidden Worlds

Today marked another chapter in my Kyoto adventure, a day dedicated to exploring the northern reaches of this captivating city. Leaving the familiar comforts of Matsui Honkan, I ventured into a realm where ancient shrines whispered stories of emperors and gods, where forests breathed with the spirits of centuries past, and where the enchanting world of geishas offered a glimpse into a timeless art form. It was a day of serene contemplation and cultural immersion, a journey that deepened my appreciation for the intricate tapestry of Kyoto's heritage.


Experience the warmth of home at Matsui Honkan, a serene guesthouse in Kyoto, just a stone's throw from iconic attractions and cultural gems.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Katsukura Tonkatsu Sanjo Main Store. I decided to try their famous tonkatsu, and it was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of exploration. The restaurant itself had a lovely, traditional feel, which added to the experience. After breakfast, I was ready to immerse myself in the spiritual heart of Kyoto, starting with the revered Shimogamo Shrine.


Explore the serene beauty and rich cultural heritage of Shimogamo Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Kyoto, Japan.

Shimogamo Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage site, stood as a testament to Kyoto's ancient roots. As I approached the shrine, the crisp morning air carried the scent of cedar and damp earth, a fragrant welcome to this sacred space. I learned that Shimogamo Shrine, formally known as Kamomioya-jinja, has been around since the 6th century, even before Kyoto became the capital. It's one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan! The shrine is dedicated to the deities Kamo Taketsunumi-no-Mikoto and his daughter Tamayori-hime, important figures in the Kamo clan, who were believed to protect Kyoto from evil. The vermilion structures gleamed against the backdrop of the surrounding forest, creating a scene of ethereal beauty. March is a special time to visit, as I discovered that the Nagashibina ceremony, associated with the Doll Festival, takes place here annually on March 3rd. How lucky was I to be here on this day!

I watched, captivated, as traditionally dressed figures placed paper dolls into the stream, a symbolic act of warding off misfortune. It was a poignant reminder of the deep-seated beliefs and rituals that continue to resonate within Japanese culture. I made sure to purify my hands at the water pavilion before approaching the main hall. I bowed twice, clapped twice, and bowed once more to pay my respects. I also made a small offering, wishing for the health and happiness of my family back in Bonn.

The forest whispers secrets of emperors and gods, a place where time seems to stand still.

Leaving the shrine, I found myself drawn into the embrace of Tadasu-no-Mori Forest, a primeval woodland that surrounds Shimogamo Shrine. The name Tadasu-no-Mori translates to Forest of Correction or Forest of Truth. Walking beneath the towering trees, some of which are said to be over 600 years old, I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me. The forest is believed to be a sacred space where lies are exposed, making it a place for introspection and settling disputes. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the moss-covered ground. The air was alive with the gentle murmur of a nearby stream, its waters crystal clear and inviting. I paused for a moment, closing my eyes and breathing deeply, allowing the forest's serene energy to rejuvenate my spirit. It was hard to believe that I was still in the middle of a bustling city; the forest felt like a world apart.


Explore the serene beauty of Tadasu-no-Mori Forest, a historical landmark in Kyoto perfect for nature lovers and cultural enthusiasts.

For lunch, I ventured to Osara to Spoon, a charming spot that promised a delightful culinary experience. The restaurant had a cozy and inviting atmosphere, and the menu featured a fusion of international flavors. I decided to try their daily special, which was a delicious combination of Japanese and Western ingredients. As I savored each bite, I couldn't help but reflect on the morning's adventures, the serene beauty of Shimogamo Shrine, and the tranquil embrace of Tadasu-no-Mori Forest. It was a perfect interlude before embarking on the afternoon's cultural exploration.


Experience the perfect fusion of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine at Osara to Spoon in Kyoto's Shimogyo Ward.

In the late afternoon, I decided to explore the enchanting world of Kamishichiken Kabukai, Kyoto's oldest geisha district. Kamishichiken, meaning Seven Upper Houses, originated in the Muromachi period and is located near the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. It’s said that the teahouses in this district were constructed using leftover materials from the shrine’s renovation. I was immediately captivated by the district's traditional atmosphere. The narrow streets were lined with ochaya (teahouses) and traditional shops, their facades adorned with lanterns and intricate wooden latticework. The area exuded an air of exclusivity and timeless elegance.


Discover the charm of Kyoto's performing arts at Kamishichiken Kabukai, where tradition and elegance come to life through exquisite performances.

I had the opportunity to witness a performance at the Kamishichiken Kabukai Theatre. The geiko (geisha) and maiko (apprentice geisha) of Kamishichiken are known for their refined and demure demeanor, a stark contrast to the more flamboyant style of Gion. The performance was a mesmerizing display of traditional dance, music, and storytelling. The geishas moved with graceful precision, their elaborate costumes shimmering under the soft lighting. The haunting melodies of the shamisen and the poignant lyrics of the songs evoked a range of emotions, from joy to sorrow, love to longing. It was a truly immersive experience, a glimpse into a world of artistry and tradition that has been carefully preserved for centuries.

As the day drew to a close, I treated myself to a delectable dinner at Nishikawa, a renowned kaiseki restaurant known for its exquisite cuisine and impeccable service. The restaurant is nestled near Yasaka Shrine and Kodaiji Temple, along the picturesque Shimokawara-dori. The chef, Masayoshi Nishikawa, is known for his dedication to using the finest ingredients, sourced from local farms and producers across Japan. Each dish was a work of art, a delicate balance of flavors and textures that tantalized the senses. The ambiance was elegant and refined, creating a perfect setting for a memorable culinary experience. It earned a Michelin star just a year after opening!


Experience exquisite Kaiseki dining at Nishikawa in Kyoto – where tradition meets artistry for an unforgettable culinary adventure.

After dinner, I decided to unwind at Concrete Bar, a unique establishment known for its cozy atmosphere and amazing decor. Tucked away in a small corridor, the bar offered a relaxed ambiance and an impressive selection of drinks. I settled into a comfortable seat upstairs, enjoying the friendly banter of the bartender and the mellow tunes playing in the background. It was the perfect way to reflect on the day's adventures, the spiritual sanctuaries, the enchanting forests, and the captivating world of geishas. Sipping my drink, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the rich tapestry of Kyoto's cultural heritage.


Discover the dynamic nightlife of Kyoto at Concrete Bar, where cocktails flow and friendships blossom in a vibrant atmosphere.

Tomorrow, I plan to delve into Kyoto's more modern side, with visits to the Kyoto Railway Museum and the Kyoto International Manga Museum. I’m also hoping to explore Nijo Castle. Before that, I'll grab breakfast at Ajikyu. It promises to be another day filled with discovery and wonder.

Today, as I write this, back in my room at Matsui Honkan, I realize Kyoto is a city that seamlessly blends the ancient and the modern, the sacred and the secular. It is a place where you can lose yourself in the tranquility of a forest, be transported by the artistry of a geisha performance, and savor the exquisite flavors of traditional cuisine. It is a journey that nourishes the soul and expands the mind, a testament to the enduring power of culture and heritage.