A Solo Cultural Exploration in Fes, Morocco

First Impressions of Fes El Bali

The air is thick with the scent of spices, the sounds of bartering echo through the narrow alleyways, and the vibrant colors of hand-dyed fabrics assault the senses. My first day in Fes was nothing short of a full immersion into a world so different from my quiet life in Bamberg. I've always cherished the moments where travel pushes me beyond my comfort zone, and Fes, with its chaotic beauty, promised just that.

My journey began early this morning, a connecting flight through Paris making the trip from Germany a tad longer than I anticipated. But as soon as I stepped out of the airport and into the Moroccan air, the weariness melted away. The drive to the heart of Fes, Fes El Bali, was a visual feast. The ancient walls of the medina loomed closer, hinting at the treasures hidden within. There’s an Alvern Saad concert at Semmarin Medina Gate at 6 PM today, but I think I'll pass on that. I want to soak in as much of Fes as possible.


Explore the historic Fes El Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site brimming with ancient architecture, vibrant souks, and rich Moroccan culture.

My first stop was breakfast at Cafe Clock, a place I had read so much about. Finding it was an adventure in itself, a delightful wander through the labyrinthine streets. The cafe is a vibrant hub, buzzing with locals and tourists alike. I settled on a traditional Moroccan breakfast – msemen (buttery pancakes) with honey and a steaming glass of mint tea. It was the perfect start to a day of exploration. As I savored the sweetness, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for this opportunity to experience a culture so rich and different from my own.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Cafe Clock in Fes - where tradition meets contemporary dining in a vibrant atmosphere.

The beauty of travel lies not just in seeing new places, but in experiencing them fully, engaging all your senses, and allowing yourself to be transformed.

Aromatic Journey Through Chouara Tannery

Next on the itinerary was the infamous Chouara Tannery. I had braced myself for the sensory experience, having read countless descriptions of the pungent odors and the vibrant colors. As I approached the tannery, the smell hit me – a potent mix of ammonia and dye. It was intense, but strangely fascinating. I was handed a sprig of mint, which helped to cut through the stronger scents. The sight before me was mesmerizing: men waist-deep in stone pits filled with colorful dyes, working hides in the age-old tradition. It was a scene straight out of history, a testament to the enduring craftsmanship of Fes. I learned that the hides are first soaked in a mixture of lime and pigeon droppings to soften them, before being dyed with natural pigments like saffron, indigo, and henna. The process is laborious and demanding, but the result is the exquisite leather that Fes is known for.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

I found myself observing the intricate process, captivated by the dedication and skill of the workers. The terraces surrounding the tannery offered a panoramic view of this ancient practice, a blend of artistry and hard labor that has sustained generations. I was approached by a few local men offering to show me the best photo spots, but having read about this common practice, I politely declined, keen on experiencing the tannery on my own terms. I must remember to get some sunscreen and a hat, though. The Moroccan sun is quite intense.

Intricate Art at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts

Seeking respite from the intensity of the tannery, I ventured towards the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century fondouk (a traditional caravanserai), the museum was a haven of tranquility. The intricate woodwork on display was breathtaking – from ornately carved doors and chests to delicate musical instruments and household objects. Each piece told a story, a testament to the skill and artistry of Moroccan craftsmen.


Discover the rich heritage of Moroccan craftsmanship at the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts in historic Fes.

The museum itself was a work of art, with its serene courtyard and stunning rooftop terrace offering panoramic views of the medina. I spent a good hour wandering through the exhibits, admiring the craftsmanship and learning about the history of woodworking in Morocco. The worn wooden boards, once used by students of Quranic recitation, were particularly moving, a tangible connection to the city’s intellectual heritage.

A Carpet of Dreams at Coin Berbere

As the afternoon sun began to cast long shadows, I decided to indulge in a bit of shopping. Coin Berbere Carpets & Antiques had been recommended to me as a place where you could find high-quality rugs and antiques without the overly aggressive sales tactics that can be common in the souks. The shop was a treasure trove of carpets, textiles, and artifacts, each with its own unique story.


Explore the exquisite carpets and unique antiques at Coin Berbere, a family-owned gem in the heart of Fes, Morocco.

I was greeted by Abdul, one of the owners, who patiently showed me a variety of carpets, explaining the different tribal designs and weaving techniques. I was particularly drawn to the Azillal rugs, known for their geometric shapes and vibrant colors. The Beni Ourain carpets are beautiful as well. Abdul shared that his family has been in the business for generations, and he clearly had a passion for preserving and sharing Moroccan artistry. I ended up purchasing a small Berber rug, a piece of Fes to take back home to Bamberg. It was a bit more than I had initially intended to spend, but I knew that I was investing in a piece of art, a tangible reminder of my time in this magical city.

Culinary Delights at Nur

For dinner, I had made a reservation at Nur, a restaurant that promised a modern take on Moroccan cuisine. After a day of sensory overload, I was looking forward to a refined dining experience. The restaurant was tucked away in a quiet corner of the medina, its minimalist decor a stark contrast to the bustling streets outside. Chef Najat Kaanache, with her impressive background at El Bulli and Noma, has created a culinary oasis, a place where traditional Moroccan flavors are reimagined with contemporary techniques. I opted for the tasting menu, a journey through ten courses of culinary innovation. Each dish was a work of art, a symphony of flavors and textures that both surprised and delighted my palate. From the delicate herb meringues to the succulent duck confit, every bite was an experience. The service was impeccable, the staff attentive and knowledgeable, guiding me through each course with grace and enthusiasm. It was a fitting end to a day of exploration, a reminder that Fes is not just a city of ancient traditions, but also a place of innovation and creativity.


Experience the essence of Moroccan cuisine at Nur in Fes - where tradition meets innovation in every delicious bite.

As I walked back to my riad, the sounds of the medina lulled me into a state of peaceful contemplation. The air was cooler now, the scent of jasmine mingling with the lingering aroma of spices. I thought about all that I had seen and experienced today – the vibrant colors of the tannery, the intricate woodwork of the museum, the warmth of the Berber rug, and the exquisite flavors of Nur. Fes had cast its spell on me, and I knew that this was just the beginning of an unforgettable journey. I am looking forward to exploring the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II tomorrow.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Bou Inania Madrasa, the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, and Jnan Sbil. I might also check out Mezzanine for a drink in the evening.

I am also looking forward to the Rose Harvest Festival in the Dades Valley that starts tomorrow. It is a bit far from Fes, however. I might have to come back to Morocco to attend.

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” – Aldous Huxley