Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Kumano Kodo

Echoes of Emerald and Wine-Dark Waters

Today was a symphony of natural wonders, a day where the ancient whispers of Kumano Kodo intertwined with the soothing embrace of its rivers and gorges. Mei-Ling, Lin, and I embarked on a journey that took us deep into the heart of Japan's stunning landscapes, a stark contrast to our life back in Kelowna, where the orchards and wineries hold their own kind of beauty.

Our day began with a comforting breakfast at Jokiin, the familiar setting a gentle start before the day’s adventures unfolded. The traditional Japanese fare was simple yet satisfying, fueling us for the explorations ahead. Lin was particularly excited, her boundless energy barely contained as we discussed our plans for the day.


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
Our first destination was the famed Doro Kyo Gorge. As we approached, the landscape transformed, with towering cliffs rising on either side, embracing us in nature's grandeur. The emerald-green waters of the Kitayama-gawa River snaked through the gorge, creating a mesmerizing contrast against the rugged rocks and verdant forests. It was a scene straight out of a classical Japanese painting, a moment of serene beauty that left us all breathless. I felt a sense of tranquility wash over me, a feeling that I haven't experienced since I left my hometown in Douliu.


Discover the breathtaking beauty of Doro Kyo Gorge in Wakayama, Japan—where nature’s artwork meets adventure amidst stunning landscapes.
We opted for the Kumano River boat cruise, a decision that proved to be inspired. As the boat glided along the river, we were treated to panoramic views of the gorge's dramatic rock formations and lush vegetation. The tour guide shared captivating stories of the area's history and folklore, enriching our understanding of this sacred place. Lin was particularly fascinated by the tales of emperors and aristocrats who once traveled these waters on pilgrimages. The gentle rocking of the boat, combined with the stunning scenery, created a meditative experience, a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Wakayama on the Kumano Boat River Cruise, a serene journey through history and nature's splendor.

Nature's beauty is a language understood by all, a universal dialogue that transcends borders and cultures.

The boat tour wasn't just about the scenery; it was an immersive cultural experience. We learned about the unique ecosystem of the river, spotting various birds and wildlife along the way. The guide even played a traditional Japanese shinobue flute, filling the air with enchanting melodies that resonated with the natural surroundings. It was a moment of pure magic, a harmonious blend of nature and art that touched our souls.

Lunch beckoned, and we found ourselves at Takehara, a local restaurant renowned for its fresh tuna. Being close to the Katsuura fishing port, the restaurant prides itself on serving some of the finest *nama maguro* (fresh tuna) in Japan. The tuna was exquisite, melting in our mouths with a burst of umami flavor. Mei-Ling, ever the astute food critic, declared it one of the best tuna meals she had ever had. Lin, surprisingly, devoured her portion, a testament to the quality and freshness of the fish.


Experience authentic Japanese seafood in Takehara – where fresh ingredients meet exquisite culinary craftsmanship.
As the sun began its descent, we made our way to Watarase Onsen for dinner. The Watarase onsen cafe offered a delightful array of local delicacies, providing a comforting end to our active day. We savored each bite, reflecting on the day's adventures and the stunning beauty we had witnessed.


Discover serenity and flavor at Watarase Onsen Cafe in Tanabe – where traditional Japanese cuisine meets soothing hot springs.
To cap off the evening, I decided to explore Wine Kumano, a local bar known for its selection of natural wines. While Mei-Ling and Lin headed back to our accommodation to rest, I indulged in a glass of local wine, savoring the complex flavors and aromas. The ambiance was cozy and inviting, with friendly locals sharing stories and laughter. It was a perfect opportunity to unwind and soak in the local culture, a reminder of the simple joys in life.


Experience authentic local cuisine and exquisite wines at Wine Kumano, a must-visit restaurant in Wakayama for food and wine lovers.
As I sipped my wine, I couldn't help but feel grateful for this incredible journey. The Kumano Kodo had exceeded all my expectations, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and spiritual reflection. It was a journey that had brought us closer as a family, creating memories that we would cherish for a lifetime. I am looking forward to tomorrow, where we plan to visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Kamikura Shrine, and Shinsekaiinari Shrine. I am curious about what cultural experiences and sights await us there.

Tomorrow promises another day of exploration, with plans to visit Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Kamikura Shrine, and Shinsekaiinari Shrine. I am filled with anticipation, eager to uncover more of the Kumano Kodo's hidden gems and immerse ourselves in its rich cultural heritage. As I reflect on our journey so far, I am reminded of a quote by the great Taiwanese writer, Lin Qingxuan:

The best journey is one that allows you to find yourself.

And indeed, the Kumano Kodo has been a journey of self-discovery, a path that has led us to appreciate the beauty of nature, the richness of culture, and the importance of family. It is a journey that I would recommend to anyone seeking a meaningful and transformative travel experience. As we prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with gratitude and excitement, ready to embrace whatever adventures lie ahead. The Kumano Kodo has captured my heart, and I know that its magic will stay with me long after we leave its sacred trails. Maybe I'll even find a way to bring some of this serenity back to our orchard in Kelowna.

Goodnight from the heart of Kumano Kodo.