Family Pilgrimage: Exploring Kumano Kodo

Whispers of the Gods

Today marked the fifth day of our family's journey along the Kumano Kodo, and it was a day filled with profound spiritual encounters and vibrant cultural experiences. From the serene grounds of ancient shrines to the bustling energy of local markets, every moment resonated with the deep history and enduring spirit of this sacred region. It’s amazing how much you can discover about a place just by being open to its rhythm.

Our day began, as most have on this trip, with a delightful breakfast at Jokiin. The traditional Japanese fare set a comforting tone as we prepared for the day's explorations. I always appreciate these quiet mornings, a chance to reflect on the journey and anticipate the discoveries that lie ahead. Mei-Ling particularly enjoyed the tofu, remarking on its subtle flavors and creamy texture. Lin, of course, was eager to get going, her boundless energy a constant source of amusement and inspiration for me. I swear, that girl could hike all day without a single complaint!


Discover Koya's serene charm at Jokiin, a welcoming guest house perfect for exploring the city's historic landmarks and natural beauty.
Our first destination was Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a grand shrine located near the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River. The shrine's vibrant vermillion lacquer and elegant architecture immediately captivated us. Dedicated to Kumano Hatayama o kami, the divinity of moving water and life itself, the setting was incredibly peaceful. We took our time wandering the grounds, admiring the ancient trees and feeling the weight of centuries of pilgrims who had come before us. The air was thick with a sense of reverence, a reminder of the deep spiritual significance of this place. I found myself particularly drawn to the sacred Nagi tree, a majestic conifer said to be over 800 years old. Its symmetrical leaves are believed to symbolize harmony, a sentiment that resonated deeply with me as I thought of my family and our shared journey.


Explore Kumano Hayatama Taisha, a revered Shinto shrine in Wakayama, where ancient traditions and stunning landscapes converge for an unforgettable experience.

The journey along Kumano Kodo is not just a walk through nature; it's a pilgrimage of the soul, a quest for inner peace and connection with the divine.

Next on our itinerary was Kamikura Shrine, a site of immense historical and spiritual importance. Perched atop a steep hill, reaching the shrine required climbing 538 stone steps. The climb was challenging, but the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the top was well worth the effort. As we ascended, I couldn't help but imagine the countless pilgrims who had made this same journey over the centuries, their footsteps echoing through time. At the summit, we were greeted by the Gotobiki Rock, a massive boulder revered as a dwelling place of the gods. The rock exuded an aura of ancient power, a testament to the enduring beliefs of the people who have worshipped here for millennia. The panoramic views of Shingu City and the sea were breathtaking, offering a moment of serene contemplation.


Experience the serene beauty and spiritual heritage of Kamikura Shrine, a treasured Shinto site in the heart of Wakayama, Japan.
After descending from Kamikura Shrine, we visited Shinsekaiinari Shrine, a small shrine tucked away in a street corner of Shinsekai. This charming spot was built to bring good fortune to local businesses, and it had a unique feature: instead of picking a paper fortune, visitors spin a heavy roulette-like wheel made of stone to receive their fortune. Though the fortunes were written in Kanji, the atmosphere was lighthearted and fun. Lin especially enjoyed spinning the wheel, her laughter echoing through the small shrine. It was a delightful reminder that spirituality can be found in unexpected places, even amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life.


Experience the serene beauty of Shinsekaiinari Shrine, a tranquil Shinto shrine in Osaka's vibrant Shinsekai district.
For lunch, we ventured to Yorozuya Eatery, a local spot known for its hearty and comforting dishes. The restaurant had a warm, inviting atmosphere, and the staff greeted us with genuine hospitality. We savored a variety of local specialties, including fresh seafood and flavorful vegetable dishes. Mei-Ling was particularly impressed with the okonomiyaki. Lin devoured a bowl of udon noodles with gusto. As we ate, we chatted with fellow diners, sharing stories and experiences from our travels. It was a reminder of the simple joys of life: good food, good company, and a shared sense of adventure. I cherish these moments of connection, a reminder that travel is not just about seeing new places, but also about meeting new people and forging lasting bonds.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yorozuya Eatery in Totsukawa – a serene dining experience surrounded by nature's beauty.
In the afternoon, we decided to immerse ourselves in the local culture at Toretore Market, a bustling seafood market in Shirahama. The market was a feast for the senses, with vendors hawking their wares and the aroma of fresh seafood filling the air. We wandered through the stalls, marveling at the variety of fish, shellfish, and other delicacies on display. We watched a tuna-cutting show, where a skilled butcher expertly carved up a massive tuna with precision and flair. The energy of the market was infectious, and we found ourselves caught up in the excitement of the moment. We purchased a selection of fresh seafood, including plump oysters and succulent scallops, and took them to the market's BBQ corner to grill. The taste of the grilled seafood, fresh off the grill, was simply divine. I was reminded of the vibrant markets in Douliu, Taiwan, where I spent my childhood, the energy and the smells so similar to this one. It felt like a comforting reminder of home, a connection to my roots amidst this incredible journey.


Experience the vibrant Toretore Market in Shirahama, where local crafts, fresh seafood, and authentic Japanese souvenirs await every traveler.
As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Akihei for dinner, a restaurant known for its traditional Japanese cuisine and warm hospitality. Founded in 1870, the restaurant exuded a sense of history and tradition. The fifth-generation owner greeted us with a smile and led us to a cozy table in a quiet corner of the restaurant. We savored a multi-course meal featuring local specialties, including delicate sashimi, savory tempura, and a rich beef hot pot. The flavors were exquisite, and the presentation was impeccable. Mei-Ling was particularly impressed with the homemade matcha ice cream, declaring it the perfect end to a perfect meal. The owner and chefs offered us tips on local attractions, making us feel especially welcome. As we left the restaurant, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences of the day. It was a day filled with spiritual discoveries, cultural immersion, and culinary delights, a testament to the enduring charm of the Kumano Kodo.


Discover the essence of Japanese culinary art at Akihei in Tanabe - where tradition meets flavor in every exquisite dish.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore Kumano Kodo Park and cross the Shiomi-togego'e Mountain Pass. I’m looking forward to more hiking and taking in the natural beauty of the region. I've heard that the views from the pass are spectacular, and I can't wait to capture them with my camera. I'm also excited to visit Kodo-no-Mori Anchan, a local shop that I hope will offer unique souvenirs to remind us of our time here.

As I sit here now, reflecting on the day, I am struck by the profound sense of peace and connection that I feel. The Kumano Kodo is more than just a pilgrimage route; it is a journey of self-discovery, a chance to reconnect with nature, and a reminder of the enduring power of the human spirit. I am grateful for the opportunity to share this experience with my family, and I look forward to the adventures that lie ahead. Perhaps I’ll remember to buy a sunhat tomorrow, as I forgot mine today!