Exploring the Cultural Heart of Morocco: A Solo Journey to Fes

Whispers of History in Fes

Today was a day of quiet reflection and unexpected discoveries in the heart of Fes. I ventured into the spiritual heart of the city, explored bustling squares, and marveled at ancient timekeeping, all while soaking in the unique atmosphere of this Moroccan gem. Each corner turned revealed another layer of Fes's rich tapestry, leaving me with a deeper appreciation for its history and culture.

My day began with a hearty breakfast at Al Oud. The restaurant was conveniently located on Talaa Kebira, the main street of the old Medina. I enjoyed a traditional Moroccan mint tea and some pastries, while watching the city awaken. The friendly atmosphere and the delicious food were the perfect start to a day of exploration. I made sure to jot down some notes about the restaurant, as Francisca would certainly love to try and recreate some of the dishes back in Lisbon. She always appreciates when I bring back culinary inspiration from my travels.

With a sense of anticipation, I made my way to the Mausoleum of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani. The mausoleum is a serene sanctuary dedicated to the founder of the Tijaniyyah order, Sheikh Ahmad al-Tijani, an eighteenth century Sufi leader. As I approached, the intricate details of the architecture drew me in. The turquoise minaret stood tall against the clear blue sky, and the ornamented facades whispered tales of centuries past. Inside, a sense of peace washed over me. The air was thick with reverence as I observed pilgrims from all over the world who had come to pay their respects. I sat for a while, simply absorbing the atmosphere and reflecting on the spiritual significance of this place. The marble in the center arena in front of the entrance was especially striking.


Experience the spiritual essence of Fes at the Mausoleum of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani, a serene landmark steeped in Sufi tradition and architectural beauty.

To truly understand a place, you must walk its streets, listen to its stories, and feel its spirit.

Leaving the tranquility of the mausoleum, I plunged into the vibrant chaos of Place Rcif. This large public square, created in the 20th century, is one of the few places inside the medina accessible by car. The square was bustling with activity. Locals were selling everything from fresh produce to clothing and household goods. I strolled through the market, soaking in the energy and observing the daily life of the Fassis. The aromas of spices, fresh bread, and grilling meats filled the air, creating a sensory feast. I watched as families haggled over prices, friends chatted over cups of coffee, and artisans worked diligently at their crafts. It was a slice of authentic Fassi life, far removed from the touristy areas.


Explore the vibrant community of Place Rcif in Fes, a cultural hub full of local crafts, delicious cuisine, and rich traditions waiting to be discovered.

Dominating the square was the R'cif Mosque, built in the 18th century. Its tall minaret added a sense of grandeur to the already lively scene. I learned that Place Rcif has served as a rallying point for protests, particularly during the 1937 riots against the French Protectorate authorities. Knowing this added another layer of depth to my understanding of the square's significance. I imagined the square filled with people protesting for their rights, their voices echoing against the ancient walls.

For lunch, I decided to try Fez & Friends, a cozy cafe just outside the Medina. I had read good reviews about their vegan falafel bowl. The cafe had a relaxed atmosphere, with chill music playing in the background. The falafel bowl was delicious and filling, the perfect fuel for the rest of my day's adventures. I made a mental note to recommend this place to other travelers looking for vegetarian options.


Discover authentic Moroccan flavors at Fez & Friends - a culinary oasis in Fes where tradition meets hospitality.

My final stop of the day was Dar al-Magana, the famed water clock. Located opposite the Bou Inania Madrasa on Tala'a Kebira street, it was built in the 14th century. I was immediately captivated by the intricate woodwork and the row of thirteen windows and platforms. Although the clock is no longer functioning, I could imagine how it once worked, with metal balls dropping into brass bowls to signal the hours. I learned that the clock was designed by Abu al-Hassan ibn Ali Ahmed el-Tlemsani, a muwaqqit, or timekeeper. It was fascinating to think about the ingenuity and skill that went into creating such a complex mechanism so many centuries ago. The bowls have been removed since 2004 with the aim of repairing or reconstructing its mechanism, though the project has been unsuccessful so far. I found myself pondering the mysteries of time and the enduring human fascination with measuring and understanding it.


Explore the historical wonder of Dar al-Magana in Fes, a mesmerizing water clock that encapsulates Morocco's rich architectural heritage and ingenuity.

As the sun began to set, I found myself reflecting on the day's experiences. I had journeyed through the spiritual heart of Fes, immersed myself in the hustle and bustle of local life, and marveled at the ingenuity of ancient timekeeping. Each encounter, each sight, each sound had added another brushstroke to the portrait of Fes that was forming in my mind. The city was more than just a collection of historical monuments; it was a living, breathing organism, full of energy, history, and culture.

Before heading back to my guesthouse, I decided to treat myself to dinner at Palais La Médina. The restaurant is known for its traditional Moroccan cuisine and its stunning Arabo-Moorish architecture. I indulged in a royal couscous, savoring the delicate flavors and the tender meat. The restaurant also had a panoramic view and offered all sorts of traditional dishes. It was the perfect ending to a day of exploration and discovery.


Discover exquisite Moroccan cuisine at Palais La Médina - a culinary gem in Fes offering authentic flavors and enchanting ambiance.

Finally, to cap off the night, I ventured to Felix Club Fes. I don't usually go clubbing, but I figured, why not? The club was lively, with a mix of locals and tourists dancing to contemporary music. I enjoyed a drink and soaked in the atmosphere, feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience this side of Fes's nightlife. I was struck by the energy and the sense of community, even in this modern setting. The club had a modern interior and a state-of-the-art sound system.


Discover the pulsating nightlife of Fes at Felix Club, where music and dance unite for an unforgettable experience.

As I prepare for my final day in Fes, I am filled with a sense of anticipation. Tomorrow, I plan to visit Fez-Volubilis Tour, Borj Sud, and the Henna Souk. I am excited to see what other hidden gems and cultural treasures this city has to offer. I'm also hoping to pick up a few souvenirs for Francisca and Nilton at La Petite Maison Berbere before I leave. It's hard to believe that my journey is coming to an end, but I know that the memories and experiences I have gained here will stay with me long after I return to Lisbon.

The city has truly captured my heart, and I know that I will carry a piece of it with me wherever I go. As I drift off to sleep, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to explore this magical place and to share my experiences with all of you. Until tomorrow, dear readers, may your own journeys be filled with wonder and discovery.