Exploring the Ancient Marvels of Lalibela with Family

A Day Among Angels and Saints

Today was a day of delving deeper into the heart of Lalibela, a place where faith and history intertwine so profoundly that you can almost feel the whispers of the past. The rock-hewn churches here are not just architectural marvels; they are living testaments to a devotion that has endured for centuries. I felt an incredible sense of reverence as I explored these sacred spaces with my family, each of us touched in our own way by the palpable spirituality that permeates the very stones.

Our day began, as many do here in Lalibela, with a traditional Ethiopian breakfast at Getriga. The *injera* was fresh, the *wot* flavorful, and the coffee, of course, was strong enough to wake the sleepiest traveler – even young Nilton after a restless night. Fuelled up, we set out to explore the day's itinerary, which promised a visit to two more of Lalibela's iconic churches: Beta Gabriel Raphael and Bete Abba Libanos.

First on our list was Beta Gabriel Raphael. As we approached, the grandeur of the structure began to unfold before us. The church is said to possibly have been a former royal palace, linked to a holy bakery. The kids were fascinated by the stories of angels and the sheer scale of the rock-cut monolith. The church stands as a testament to the incredible engineering feats achieved centuries ago. Carved directly into the earth, the church seemed to rise organically from the ground, a seamless extension of the very landscape. As a tour guide in Lisbon, I am used to explaining the historical relevance of old structures, but nothing prepared me for the feeling of awe I experienced in front of Beta Gabriel Raphael. The kids were equally impressed, running around the huge structure, their laughter echoing through the open space.


Discover the architectural marvel of Beta Gabriel Raphael Church in Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage site and spiritual haven in Ethiopia's highlands.

One of the most striking aspects of Beta Gabriel Raphael is its unique architecture. Unlike some of the other churches in Lalibela, which are completely hidden from view, Beta Gabriel Raphael stands partially exposed, its façade adorned with intricate carvings that hint at the treasures within. The entrance is reached by a bridge, adding to the sense of drama and anticipation.

Inside, the church is a labyrinth of dimly lit chambers, each one adorned with ancient murals and religious symbols. The air is thick with the scent of incense, and the silence is broken only by the murmur of prayers. I took a moment to sit in one of the alcoves, closing my eyes and letting the atmosphere wash over me. It was a deeply moving experience, a chance to connect with something far greater than myself.

To walk through Lalibela is to walk through the pages of history, each stone whispering tales of faith, perseverance, and artistic genius.

After Beta Gabriel Raphael, we made our way to Bete Abba Libanos. This church is unique among Lalibela's churches because only the roof and floor remain attached to the strata. According to local historian Getachew Mekonnen, Meskel Kibra, Lalibela's wife, had Biete Abba Libanos built as a memorial for her husband after his death. The church is dedicated to Saint Abba Libanos, a revered Ethiopian saint. It is believed to have been constructed during the reign of King Lalibela in the 12th century, part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Its partially free-standing structure, carved directly into the rock, along with a cruciform design and intricate interior decorations, reflects the skill and devotion of its creators.


Discover the spiritual essence of Ethiopia at Bete Abba Libanos, a remarkable rock-hewn church in Lalibela, rich in history and architectural wonder.

Bete Abba Libanos offered a different, more intimate experience. This church is said to have been built in a single night by angels, a testament to the unwavering faith of the Ethiopian people. Whether or not that's true, the church exudes a sense of peace and serenity that is hard to describe. It is smaller than Beta Gabriel Raphael, but no less impressive, with its own unique charm and character.

Inside, the church is dimly lit, with ancient paintings adorning the walls. We spent some time here, simply soaking in the atmosphere and reflecting on the history of this incredible place. Nilton, who usually squirms during moments of quiet contemplation, seemed genuinely moved by the experience, asking questions about the saints and the stories depicted in the paintings.

Lunch today was at Alem cooking class bar and restaurant, where we were treated to a cooking class. Francisca was in her element, helping the chef prepare the various dishes, while Nilton and I watched with amusement. The food, of course, was delicious, and we all agreed that it was one of the best meals we've had so far on this trip.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Alem Cooking Class Bar and Restaurant in Lalibela – where cooking meets culture.

In the late afternoon, after a day filled with history and spirituality, we decided to unwind at Kana Restaurant and Bar. The restaurant is known for its authentic Ethiopian dishes and vibrant atmosphere. The warm and welcoming environment made it an ideal spot for us. The restaurant's decor reflected the cultural nuances of Ethiopia, providing a cozy and charming backdrop for our dining experience. We enjoyed classic dishes such as *injera*, accompanied by flavorful stews. We listened to traditional music that enhanced the ambiance, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the rich cultural fabric of the region.


Experience the authentic flavors of Ethiopia at Kana Restaurant and Bar in Lalibela, where culinary tradition meets warm hospitality.

As the sun began to set, casting long shadows across the landscape, we made our way back to our lodging, our hearts full of gratitude for the experiences of the day. Lalibela is a place that stays with you long after you leave, its beauty etched into your memory and its spirit infused into your soul.

Before heading back for the night, we enjoyed dinner at XO Restaurant. It was the perfect way to cap off a day filled with exploration and wonder. The warm ambiance and delicious food created a sense of contentment as we reflected on the day's adventures.


Experience authentic Ethiopian cuisine at XO Restaurant in Lalibela - a cultural gem offering traditional flavors in a welcoming setting.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit Lawober Lalibela and Explore Lalibela Tours. We're also planning to check out All In One Souvenir & Gift Shop to pick up some mementos of our trip. I'm particularly excited about the prospect of exploring the local crafts and perhaps finding a unique piece to bring back home to Lisbon.

As I sit here now, writing this entry, I can't help but feel a sense of profound gratitude for the opportunity to experience this incredible place with my family. Lalibela is more than just a collection of rock-hewn churches; it is a testament to the enduring power of faith and the boundless creativity of the human spirit. It's a place that challenges you to open your mind, your heart, and your soul to the wonders of the world.

And as I drift off to sleep tonight, I know that the whispers of angels and the echoes of faith will continue to resonate within me, long after I've left this magical place. Until tomorrow!

Lalibela has truly captured my heart, and I can't wait to see what other wonders await us in the days to come. I encourage anyone who has the opportunity to visit this remarkable place to do so – you won't be disappointed.

The memories created here will undoubtedly stay with me forever, a reminder of the beauty, history, and spirituality that this unique destination has to offer. It's an experience that has enriched my life in countless ways, and I am eager to share these stories with my tour groups back in Lisbon, hoping to inspire them to seek out their own adventures and discoveries.

The blend of ancient history, stunning architecture, and vibrant culture makes Lalibela a destination unlike any other. It's a place where you can truly immerse yourself in the past while also connecting with the present, a place where the echoes of centuries-old traditions resonate in every corner.

As I prepare for another day of exploration, I am filled with a sense of excitement and anticipation, eager to uncover more of Lalibela's hidden treasures. This journey with my family has been nothing short of extraordinary, and I am grateful for every moment spent in this enchanting land. From the warm smiles of the locals to the breathtaking beauty of the landscapes, Lalibela has left an indelible mark on my soul. And as I continue to share these experiences through my blog, I hope to inspire others to embark on their own adventures and discover the magic that awaits them in this corner of the world.