Exploring the Art and Culture of Naoshima Island

Island Discoveries: Seaside Gallery, Honmura, and a Red Pumpkin

Today was a day of venturing beyond the main museums, seeking out some of Naoshima's more intimate and community-focused art experiences. It’s fascinating how art can be woven into the everyday life of a place, and today was a testament to that. It was a Sunday well spent, soaking in the creative atmosphere of this unique island.

My morning started with a hearty breakfast at Raumen Tsumu. I'd heard great things about their ramen, and it certainly lived up to the hype. There’s something incredibly comforting about a warm bowl of noodles, especially before a day of exploring. I made a mental note to try and recreate the broth at home; perhaps Astrid would enjoy it too. After fueling up, I set off towards the Seaside Gallery.


Experience the intersection of contemporary art and nature at the Seaside Gallery on Naoshima Island, a must-visit modern art museum.

The walk itself was a treat, with glimpses of the sea and the gentle sound of waves accompanying me. The gallery, designed by Tadao Ando, is nestled into the landscape, almost like a natural extension of the coast. The structure features a long and narrow space, designed to maximize natural light, offering stunning views of the ocean. The gallery itself was free and showcased contemporary works that played with light and space. It was a smaller exhibit compared to the Benesse House, but it offered a more intimate viewing experience.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.

After the Seaside Gallery, I made my way towards Honmura, a charming port town on the eastern coast of Naoshima. The town is known for its Art House Project, where abandoned houses, temples, and shrines have been transformed into unique art installations. My first stop was the Honmura Lounge & Archive.


Explore Naoshima's artistic essence at Honmura Lounge & Archive, where culture meets relaxation amidst stunning landscapes.

It serves as an information center for the Art House Project, but it's also a lovely shop filled with local crafts and souvenirs. I picked up a few postcards to send to Maximilian and Astrid, each depicting a different artwork from the island. I also learned more about the history of the Art House Project and the artists involved. It’s amazing how art can breathe new life into forgotten spaces, creating a dialogue between the past and the present. I found it particularly interesting how the project involves the local community, fostering a sense of ownership and pride in their artistic heritage.

Lunch was a delightful experience at maimai, a garage dining cafe known for its Naoshima Burger. It's a local fish burger made with fresh Hamachi (young yellowtail) and served with a side of crispy fries. The burger was delicious, and the atmosphere was laid-back and welcoming. It was the perfect spot to recharge before continuing my exploration of Honmura. The cafe is converted from an outdoor garage, adding to its quirky charm. I sat outside on the terrace, enjoying the warm summer breeze and the sounds of the island.


Discover Maimai: A charming hamburger café on Naoshima offering delicious meals amidst stunning art installations.

After lunch, I continued my walk through Honmura, admiring the traditional architecture and the quiet, peaceful atmosphere. The town is a mix of old and new, with traditional houses standing alongside contemporary art installations. It’s a place where time seems to slow down, inviting you to wander and discover hidden treasures at every turn. I didn't have time to visit all the Art House Project sites today, but I made a mental note to return and explore them more thoroughly on a future trip.

As the afternoon drew to a close, I made my way back towards Miyanoura Port, eager to see the iconic Red Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama.


Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

As the ferry approached Naoshima, the first thing that catches your eye is the Red Pumpkin. The sculpture is located right by the ferry terminal, and it’s impossible to miss. Covered in bold black polka dots, the pumpkin is a playful and surreal addition to the landscape. I took some photos, of course, joining the many other tourists who were equally captivated by its charm. I even ventured inside, experiencing the artwork from within. Kusama herself has said that the pumpkin represents a red sunbeam that transformed into a pumpkin in the sea off Naoshima. It’s a whimsical and thought-provoking piece that perfectly captures the spirit of the island.

For dinner, I decided to try Yuunagi, a restaurant near the port known for its seafood dishes.


Discover Yuunagi: A Seafood Haven on Naoshima Island Offering Authentic Japanese Teishoku Cuisine.

I ordered the recommended special, fried fish, and it was absolutely delicious. The fish was perfectly crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, and the flavors were fresh and vibrant. The owners were incredibly friendly and welcoming, making me feel right at home. It was a wonderful way to end a day of exploring the island.

Finally, as the sun began to set, I decided to treat myself to a drink at BAR Queen's-Q Naoshima.


Discover the serene ambiance and exquisite drinks at BAR Queen's-Q Naoshima, the perfect retreat after exploring the island's art and culture.

I must admit, I was surprised to find an authentic cocktail bar on this small island, but I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the drinks and the cozy atmosphere. I enjoyed a classic cocktail while chatting with the bartender, who shared some interesting stories about the island and its art scene. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of walking and exploring.

Tomorrow, I’m planning to take a ferry to Teshima Island to visit the Teshima Art Museum and the Teshima 8 Million Lab. I've heard that the Teshima Art Museum is an incredible experience, and I'm eager to see it for myself. I'm also looking forward to exploring the island's natural beauty and learning more about its history and culture. I'm hoping to have another day filled with art, discovery, and unforgettable experiences. I'll be sure to grab breakfast at Yayoda before heading out, and I'm planning to have lunch at Issen, known for its exquisite Japanese cuisine. Dinner will be at Nagomi, a place where I can hopefully soak in some community spirit. And perhaps I'll find some time to browse the local crafts at Shimacoya.

Naoshima continues to surprise me with its unique blend of art, nature, and community. It’s a place where creativity thrives, and where every corner holds a new discovery. I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this island and share its beauty with you all.

I am beginning to think that perhaps Maximilian and Astrid would enjoy this place too. Maybe for our next summer holiday, we can make a family trip of it. Although, I’m not sure how Astrid would feel about the lack of sandy beaches. Perhaps I can convince her with the promise of ice cream and art, a combination that’s hard to resist.

I am curious what tomorrow will bring. Until then, takk fyrir for today's adventures!