A Solo Adventure in Yakushima's Ancient Forests

Summiting Miyanoura and Soaking in Yakushima's Essence

Today was a day of contrasts, from the challenging ascent of Mt. Miyanoura to the tranquil beauty of Fureai Park and the aromatic delights of a local scent lab. It’s days like these that make travel so rewarding, pushing my limits and then allowing me to relax and reflect.

My alarm went off early, as it usually does when a mountain is involved. I had a quick breakfast at hiyoriya, a charming spot I’d read about that's known for its vegan offerings. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, eager to fuel up before tackling Yakushima’s highest peak, Mt. Miyanoura. It was a hearty and healthy start to what promised to be a demanding day. They had a number of items on offer, all locally sourced and prepared. I enjoyed the tofu and miso soup, and the organic vegetables were amazing.


Explore the breathtaking landscapes and ancient cedar forests of Mt. Miyanoura, the highest peak in Kyushu, a treasure for nature enthusiasts.
The drive to the Yodogawa Trailhead was stunning, winding through dense forests that seemed to whisper ancient secrets. The air was crisp and clean, carrying the scent of cedar and damp earth. Arriving at the trailhead, I took a deep breath, adjusted my backpack, and began the ascent. I knew this would be a challenging hike, but I was eager to reach the summit and experience the panoramic views I’d heard so much about.

The Yodogawa Trail is known as one of the more accessible routes to Mt. Miyanoura, but that didn’t mean it was a walk in the park. The initial section was relatively gentle, following the Yodogawa River upstream. The crystal-clear water cascaded over moss-covered rocks, creating a soothing soundtrack to my hike. The trail gradually steepened, winding through a forest of ancient cedars. Some of these trees were truly massive, their gnarled trunks and sprawling branches testaments to centuries of growth. I paused frequently to take photos, trying to capture the scale and grandeur of these natural giants.

As I climbed higher, the vegetation began to change. Coniferous trees gave way to alpine plants, and the air grew noticeably cooler. The trail became rockier and more exposed, requiring careful footwork. I passed several other hikers along the way, exchanging smiles and nods of encouragement. There was a shared sense of purpose, a collective determination to conquer the mountain.

The final push to the summit was the most challenging, a steep scramble over boulders and exposed rock faces. My legs were burning, and my lungs were working overtime, but I pressed on, driven by the anticipation of the view from the top. Finally, I reached the summit marker, a small stone monument perched on the highest point of the mountain. And what a view it was!

The panoramic vista stretched out in every direction, a sea of green peaks and valleys fading into the distant horizon.

I could see the entire island of Yakushima laid out before me, from the rugged coastline to the dense forests and the shimmering ocean beyond. I spent a long time at the summit, soaking in the view and catching my breath. I felt a profound sense of accomplishment, a feeling of having pushed myself to the limit and been rewarded with an unforgettable experience. I took a few photos, careful to capture the essence of the landscape, and then began the descent. The way down was easier on my lungs but harder on my knees. I took my time, carefully picking my way down the rocky trail.

Back at the trailhead, I was exhausted but exhilarated. I drove to Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan for a late lunch. I opted for a set meal featuring local seafood, eager to replenish my energy after the strenuous hike. The meal was delicious, the fish fresh and flavorful, and the side dishes a delightful mix of local vegetables and pickles. The market itself was bustling with activity, a vibrant hub of local commerce. I browsed the stalls, admiring the handicrafts and sampling some of the local delicacies. It was a great way to immerse myself in the island's culture and support local businesses. I picked up some tankan citrus candies for Olivia and Thando, a small taste of Yakushima to bring back home to Kelowna. I know they'll appreciate the sweet and tangy flavor.


Discover Yakushima's culinary treasures and unique souvenirs at Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan - where local flavors meet island charm.
With the afternoon stretching out before me, I decided to visit Fureai Park Yakushima, a coastal park known for its scenic views. It was a welcome change of pace after the strenuous hike. I strolled along the paved paths, enjoying the sea breeze and the sound of the waves crashing against the shore. The park offered stunning views of the coastline, with rocky cliffs and secluded coves stretching out in either direction. I found a quiet spot on a bench overlooking the ocean and simply sat there, lost in thought. I reflected on the day so far, the challenges and triumphs, the beauty and tranquility. I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this amazing island.


Experience the natural beauty and tranquility of Fureai Park Yakushima, a family-friendly destination in Japan's stunning Yakushima Island.
The park itself was beautiful, offering a serene contrast to the ruggedness of Mt. Miyanoura. The coastal views were breathtaking, and I spent a good hour simply wandering around, taking photos and enjoying the peace and quiet. I even spotted a few local families having picnics, their laughter and chatter adding a touch of warmth to the scene. It was a reminder that Yakushima is not just a tourist destination, but a real place with a vibrant community.

As the afternoon wore on, I decided to indulge my senses with a visit to YAWARACA “The Scent of Yakushima LAB”. This small shop specializes in locally made fragrances and aromatherapy products, all inspired by the island's natural environment. I was immediately captivated by the array of scents, from the earthy aroma of cedarwood to the sweet fragrance of wild orchids. The shop owner was incredibly knowledgeable, explaining the process of extracting essential oils from local plants and the unique properties of each scent.


Explore YAWARACA in Yakushima for exquisite home goods that celebrate local craftsmanship and the island's natural beauty.
I spent a long time in the shop, sampling different fragrances and learning about the art of aromatherapy. I ended up purchasing a small bottle of cedarwood essential oil, a fragrant reminder of my time in Yakushima's forests. I also picked up a set of bath salts infused with local herbs, a perfect way to relax after a long day of hiking. I thought about how Olivia would love this place. She’s always been interested in aromatherapy, and I know she’d appreciate the natural, locally sourced ingredients.

For dinner, I ventured to Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, drawn in by its reputation for serving innovative dishes using local ingredients. The restaurant had a cozy, intimate atmosphere, with soft lighting and rustic décor. The menu was a celebration of Yakushima's culinary heritage, featuring dishes made with fresh seafood, locally grown vegetables, and wild herbs. I opted for a tasting menu, eager to sample a variety of the restaurant's specialties. Each dish was a work of art, both visually stunning and incredibly flavorful. The chef clearly had a passion for showcasing the island's bounty, and I savored every bite.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.
The meal was a culinary journey, a symphony of flavors and textures that left me feeling both satisfied and inspired. The service was impeccable, the staff attentive and knowledgeable, and the overall experience was truly memorable. It was the perfect way to end a long and rewarding day.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Yakushima-todai Lighthouse and the East China Sea Observatory, hoping for more stunning views and peaceful contemplation. It’s hard to believe my trip is drawing to a close. I’m already feeling a pang of sadness at the thought of leaving this magical island. But I know I’ll carry the memories and experiences with me long after I’ve returned to Kelowna. Yakushima has a way of getting under your skin, of capturing your heart and soul. It’s a place I’ll never forget.

As I write this, sitting on the porch of my guesthouse, the sounds of the night surround me. Crickets chirp, frogs croak, and the wind whispers through the trees. It’s a soothing lullaby, a gentle reminder of the natural world that surrounds me. I raise my glass of local shochu in a toast to Yakushima, to its beauty and tranquility, to its challenges and rewards. And to the promise of more adventures to come.