Family Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Discovering Honmura's Soul

Today was a day of quiet exploration and unexpected discoveries in the Honmura district of Naoshima. It's amazing how much character and history is packed into this small area, and I found myself reflecting on the blend of art, life, and community that makes this island so special.

Our day began, as most good days do, with breakfast. We headed to Little Plum, a cozy spot that promised a good start [i]. Olivia and I enjoyed some strong coffee while Thando devoured a plate of pancakes. It's a small place, but it had a certain charm, and the coffee definitely hit the spot [i, 21].


Experience the essence of Naoshima at Little Plum, where local flavors meet warm hospitality in a serene setting.

With our appetites sated, we set off to explore the Ando Museum. Finding it was a bit of a surprise – nestled in a traditional wooden house, it stood out from its neighbors only by a small, neat metal plate. From the outside, it seemed at odds with Ando's signature concrete style, but stepping inside revealed a fascinating blend of old and new.


Discover the Ando Museum in Naoshima, a stunning fusion of contemporary art and architecture by Tadao Ando, set against a backdrop of natural beauty.

Ando has carefully preserved the 100-year-old building's shell, incorporating his modern concrete structures within the original wooden walls. The effect is striking, a visual representation of how the past and present can coexist in harmony. The museum houses a timeline of Ando's work on Naoshima and beyond, complete with his own commentary and scale models. It gave me a deeper appreciation for his architectural vision and his commitment to integrating his buildings with the surrounding environment.

Thando, surprisingly, was captivated by the models, pointing out the clean lines and asking about the different shapes. It's moments like these that make traveling with family so rewarding – seeing the world through his curious eyes.

Leaving the Ando Museum, we strolled through the streets of Honmura, soaking in the atmosphere. It's a place where art isn't confined to galleries; it spills out into the everyday. We passed traditional houses, some with art installations visible through the windows, others simply displaying the quiet beauty of daily life. It's a unique blend that blurs the lines between art and reality.

Art isn't just something you see; it's something you experience, something that changes the way you perceive the world.

Our next stop was the Art House Project: Haisha, a former dentist's home and office transformed into an immersive art space by Shinro Ohtake. The name Haisha means dentist in Japanese, adding another layer to the experience. This was perhaps the most unconventional art experience I've ever had. Ohtake has converted the entire building into a work of art, incorporating sculptures, paintings, and collages into a chaotic yet strangely harmonious whole.


Experience the captivating blend of traditional Japanese architecture and contemporary art at Art House Project: Haisha on Naoshima Island.

The highlight for Thando (and, I must admit, for me as well) was the replica of the Statue of Liberty perched on the second floor. It's a surreal and unexpected sight, a symbol of freedom and democracy juxtaposed against the backdrop of a traditional Japanese house. The whole place felt like stepping into someone's dream, a whirlwind of images and ideas that challenged my perceptions and sparked my imagination.

After the sensory overload of Haisha, we were ready for a break. We found a quiet spot at Mikazukishoten, a charming coffee stand that also sells local crafts. I enjoyed a meticulously prepared espresso, while Olivia browsed the selection of handmade goods. Thando, of course, opted for a cookie, which he devoured with gusto. It was a perfect place to relax and recharge, surrounded by the gentle hum of conversation and the aroma of freshly brewed coffee.


Discover the perfect blend of exquisite coffee and unique souvenirs at Mikazukishoten in Naoshima, a true gem for art and coffee lovers alike.

For lunch, we chose Chikurin, drawn in by the promise of local cuisine. The restaurant was cozy and welcoming, and the menu featured a variety of traditional dishes. I opted for a set meal with fresh seafood, while Olivia tried a vegetarian option. Thando, ever the adventurous eater, surprised us by devouring a bowl of udon noodles. The food was simple but delicious, a testament to the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the chef.


Experience authentic Japanese cuisine at Chikurin in Naoshima, where tradition meets flavor in a cozy izakaya setting.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to indulge in a bit of shopping. Mikazukishoten was a great choice, offering unique souvenirs and gifts. We picked up a few small items to remind us of our time on Naoshima, including a handcrafted toy for Thando and a beautiful ceramic bowl for Olivia. It's always nice to bring back something that captures the essence of a place, a tangible reminder of the experiences we've shared.

Dinner was at Ebisukamo, a restaurant known for its authentic Japanese cuisine. The atmosphere was relaxed and inviting, and the staff were incredibly friendly. We enjoyed a delicious meal of local specialties, savoring the flavors of the Seto Inland Sea. It was a perfect way to end a day of exploration and discovery, a chance to reflect on the beauty and tranquility of Naoshima.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Ebisukamo on Naoshima Island—where local flavors meet serene beauty.

As we walked back to My Lodge Naoshima, the island was bathed in the soft glow of the setting sun. The air was filled with the sounds of crickets and the gentle lapping of waves against the shore. I felt a sense of peace and contentment, a feeling that comes from experiencing something truly special.


Discover affordable comfort at My Lodge Naoshima, an ideal base for exploring the art-laden island while enjoying local cuisine and free parking.

Tomorrow, we're planning to visit the Art House Project: Kadoya and the Naoshima Public Bath I Love Yu. I'm particularly intrigued by the bathhouse, which I've heard is a unique and unforgettable experience. I'm also looking forward to unwinding at Cin.na.mon, a bar that promises a relaxing end to the day.

Naoshima continues to surprise and delight me. It's a place that challenges my assumptions, expands my horizons, and reminds me of the power of art to transform not just spaces, but also lives. I'm grateful for the opportunity to share this experience with my family, and I look forward to seeing what tomorrow brings.

The blend of art and daily life here is seamless. You might pass a world-renowned artist on the street or find yourself sitting next to them in a local cafe. It's a reminder that creativity isn't confined to studios or galleries; it's a part of the human experience, something that we all share.

And as I drift off to sleep, I'm already anticipating the discoveries that await us tomorrow. Naoshima, you've cast your spell, and I'm happily under your influence.