Family Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Day 2: Art, Darkness, and Pumpkins: A Day of Discovery on Naoshima

Explore Naoshima's art scene with the family, venturing into the Art House Project, Lee Ufan Museum, and iconic Red Pumpkin.

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Island Immersion: Art and Introspection on Naoshima


Today was a day of deep dives, both literally and figuratively, into the art and soul of Naoshima. From the thought-provoking Art House Project to the serene Lee Ufan Museum and the whimsical Red Pumpkin, the island revealed layers of creativity and introspection I hadn't anticipated. It’s amazing how art can transform a place, and today, Naoshima transformed us.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Café Ippo. Olivia, Thando, and I fueled up with their well-regarded vegan fare, though we arrived a bit late and missed out on the full breakfast menu. Still, the coffee and cake were delicious, and the cozy, crafty atmosphere of the café was a great way to start the day. It reminded me of some of the quirky coffee shops back in Kimberley, each with its own unique charm. It's these little moments of local flavor that really make a trip special.

Next up was the Art House Project: Minamidera. This installation, designed by the renowned architect Tadao Ando, houses a work by James Turrell that plays with your perception of light. Entering the building is an experience in itself; you're led into complete darkness, and slowly, your eyes adjust to reveal an intriguing art piece. The experience was disorienting but profound, a reminder of how much we rely on sight and how much can be revealed in its absence. Thando was a bit apprehensive at first, but he quickly got into the spirit, whispering about the shapes he thought he saw in the darkness. It sparked a great conversation about perspective and how we all experience things differently.

Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.
Discover the Art House Project: Minamidera in Naoshima, where modern art meets traditional Japanese architecture in a serene setting.

Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.


After the intensity of Minamidera, we headed to the Lee Ufan Museum. This museum, another collaboration between Lee Ufan and Tadao Ando, is a study in minimalism and the use of natural materials. The installations, made of stone, concrete, and iron, invite contemplation and a connection with the earth. The museum itself is semi-subterranean, blending seamlessly with the landscape. As someone who spends a lot of time in the digital world, I found the simplicity and physicality of the art incredibly grounding. Olivia, with her nursing background, appreciated the sense of peace and tranquility that the museum evoked. It was a space to breathe and reflect.

Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.
Explore the serene Lee Ufan Museum in Naoshima, where modern art meets nature in a harmonious blend of minimalism and tranquility.

For lunch, we stopped at Issen, located in the Benesse House Museum. The restaurant offers stunning views of the Inland Sea, and the seasonal ingredients in their dishes were a treat. I opted for a seafood dish that was incredibly fresh, while Olivia enjoyed a vegetarian option. Thando, of course, was happy with his simpler fare, but even he appreciated the beautiful presentation of the food. It's clear that art extends beyond the museums here; it's woven into every aspect of life on Naoshima.

Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.
Discover exquisite Japanese cuisine at Issen on Naoshima Island—where art meets culinary excellence in every bite.

Our final stop of the day was the Red Pumpkin. This iconic sculpture by Yayoi Kusama sits near the Miyanoura Port and is one of the first things you see when arriving on the island. Covered in bold black polka dots, the pumpkin is not only a visual delight but also interactive; you can actually go inside ! Thando loved exploring the interior, peering out through the dotted apertures and giggling at the distorted views. It was a fun, lighthearted way to end a day of more serious art appreciation. Kusama’s pumpkins have a special place in her heart, embodying a sense of stability and peace of mind.

Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.
Explore the vibrant Red Pumpkin in Naoshima, a masterpiece of contemporary art by Yayoi Kusama, set against stunning coastal views.

As evening approached, we decided to try New Olympia for dinner. This Japanese-style restaurant is known for its fresh sushi and quiet atmosphere. Unfortunately, children under 10 aren't allowed , so Olivia and I took turns while Thando enjoyed some snacks back at My Lodge Naoshima. The sushi was indeed exceptional, some of the best I've ever had. The chef even surprised me with a small plate as a gift ! The cozy ambiance and the dedication to fresh, local ingredients made it a memorable meal.

Experience authentic sushi in Naoshima at New Olympia – where fresh ingredients meet traditional Japanese artistry.
Experience authentic sushi in Naoshima at New Olympia – where fresh ingredients meet traditional Japanese artistry.

To cap off the night, Olivia and I ventured to Bar SARU. This cozy bar offers a range of drinks, including local Naoshima beer. The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, and we enjoyed chatting with some fellow travelers. It was a perfect way to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. The bar scene reminded me a bit of some of the spots back in Kelowna, laid back and friendly.

Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.
Discover the vibrant nightlife of Naoshima at Bar SARU, where local beers and a cozy atmosphere await every traveler.

Today really solidified Naoshima as a unique destination, a place where art, nature, and community intertwine. The weather in May is pleasant , making it ideal for exploring the island's many outdoor installations. The Setouchi Triennale, which will be held here again in 2025, really put this island on the map as an art destination. The new Naoshima New Museum of Art, scheduled to open at the end of May , promises to add even more to the island's artistic appeal.

Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Ando Museum and the Art House Project: Haisha. I’m particularly excited to see how Tadao Ando’s architecture interacts with the art within the museum. And Haisha, with its transformation of a former dentist's office into an art space, sounds like a fascinating exploration of memory and transformation.

As I sit here writing, I'm struck by how Naoshima manages to be both challenging and calming, thought-provoking and simply beautiful. It's a place that stays with you, prompting you to see the world in new ways. I am glad that I brought my camera; I will need a bigger memory card after this trip, though! I also wish I had brought a travel adapter, as charging all our devices has been a challenge. But these are minor inconveniences in the face of such a rich and rewarding experience.

Good night from Naoshima.

Go to day 1 Art Immersion Begins: Discovering Naoshima's Soul
Go to day 3 Art and Introspection: A Day of Discovery in Honmura
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Family Art Adventure on Naoshima Island

Experience Naoshima's vibrant art scene and tranquil island life with the family, exploring museums and local culture on a memorable Japanese getaway.

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Meet this Featured Explorer

James Dlamini
  • Occupation icon Occupation: Software Developer
  • Country icon Country: Canada
  • Age icon Age: 38

Hello, fellow travelers! I'm James Dlamini, a software developer by day and a passionate travel blogger by night. Originally from Kimberley, South Africa, I now call Kelowna, Canada, home. Together with my amazing wife, Olivia, and our energetic son, Thando, we embark on journeys that blend cultural immersion, outdoor adventures, and relaxation. I share our experiences to inspire families, young professionals, and anyone seeking unique and authentic travel opportunities. Join us as we explore the world, one adventure at a time!

Interests:
  • Technology
  • Wildlife Conservation
  • African History
  • Global Cuisine
  • Photography
More about James Dlamini

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