Exploring Évora: A Romantic Getaway in Portugal

Whispers of the Past, Tastes of the Present

Today was a day of contrasts, a journey that took Lena and me from the profound silence of mortality to the vibrant flavors of Alentejo. Évora has a way of doing that, of juxtaposing the ephemeral with the enduring, the somber with the celebratory. It’s a dance through time, and we were eager to follow its lead.

Our morning began with a hearty breakfast at SBO Sabores e Livros. The name, which translates to 'Flavors and Books,' was certainly fitting. The cozy atmosphere, combined with the aroma of fresh coffee and pastries, was the perfect way to start our day. Lena enjoyed a traditional Portuguese pastry, while I opted for a simple but satisfying toast with local cheese. It's amazing how a simple meal can set the tone for the day, and SBO Sabores e Livros did not disappoint.


Experience the perfect blend of Japanese cuisine and literature at SBO Sabores e Livros in Évora—where every meal tells a story.
Fueled and ready, we ventured into the heart of Évora, our destination: the infamous Chapel of Bones. I’d read about it, of course, but nothing prepares you for the sheer visual impact of the place. As we approached, the ordinary sounds of a Sunday morning in Évora—church bells, distant chatter, the gentle hum of a city waking up—seemed to fade away, replaced by an almost palpable silence.


Explore the haunting beauty of the Chapel of Bones in Évora, where history and the macabre intertwine in a unique cultural experience.
The entrance itself is unassuming, a simple wooden door that gives little hint of what lies beyond. But above the doorway, an inscription in Portuguese serves as a stark warning: Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos – We bones that are here, for yours await. It’s a chilling reminder of our mortality, a memento mori etched in stone, and it set the tone for what was to come.

Stepping inside the Chapel of Bones is like entering another world. The walls, ceiling, and pillars are adorned with thousands of human bones and skulls, meticulously arranged in patterns. It’s estimated that the remains of over 5,000 people, mostly monks, are incorporated into the chapel’s design. The effect is both unsettling and strangely beautiful, a testament to the transience of life and the inevitability of death.

Lena and I walked slowly through the chapel, our voices hushed, our thoughts swirling. It’s hard not to feel a sense of unease in such a place, but there’s also a strange sense of peace. The bones are arranged in such a way that they become almost decorative, transforming what was once a symbol of decay into a work of art. It's a powerful statement about the cyclical nature of life and death, a reminder that even in death, there is beauty to be found.

The Chapel of Bones is a powerful reminder of the fleeting nature of life, urging us to reflect on our existence and embrace the present moment.

After the Chapel of Bones, we needed a change of scenery, so we headed to the Igreja e Mosteiro de São Francisco. This impressive church and monastery complex offered a stark contrast to the somber atmosphere of the chapel. The Igreja de São Francisco, with its Gothic architecture and ornate interior, was a feast for the eyes. The sheer scale of the building is breathtaking, and the intricate details of the stonework and stained glass windows are truly remarkable.


Explore the stunning Igreja e Mosteiro de São Francisco in Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage site rich in history, art, and architectural beauty.
We wandered through the church, admiring the soaring ceilings, the gilded altars, and the intricate carvings. The Igreja de São Francisco is a testament to the power and wealth of the Catholic Church in Portugal's past, a symbol of faith and devotion that has stood for centuries. The contrast between the opulence of the church and the stark simplicity of the Chapel of Bones was striking, a reminder of the many different facets of human experience.

By this point, we were both feeling a bit drained, both emotionally and physically. It was time for lunch, and we had a reservation at Origens Restaurante. This restaurant, known for its focus on local and seasonal ingredients, was exactly what we needed to lift our spirits. As a software developer, I appreciate the precision and attention to detail that goes into creating a well-designed program. Similarly, I admire chefs who take a thoughtful, methodical approach to their craft, and Chef Gonçalo Queiroz at Origens clearly fits the bill.


Discover authentic Portuguese cuisine at Origens Restaurante in Évora – where tradition meets innovation in every dish.
The restaurant itself is cozy and inviting, with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. We were greeted by Eugénia, Chef Queiroz’s wife, who made us feel immediately at home. We opted for the three-course tasting menu, choosing the fish and meat options. Each dish was a work of art, a symphony of flavors and textures that showcased the best of Alentejo cuisine.

Lena raved about the fish, which was perfectly cooked and served with a delicate sauce that highlighted its natural sweetness. My meat dish, a slow-cooked pork cheek, was equally delicious, tender and flavorful with a rich, savory sauce. The desserts were the perfect ending to the meal, light and refreshing, with just the right amount of sweetness. Origens Restaurante is more than just a place to eat; it's an experience, a celebration of the region's culinary heritage. It was a culinary highlight of our trip so far.

After such a rich lunch, we decided to take it easy for the rest of the afternoon. We strolled through the streets of Évora, soaking up the atmosphere and admiring the architecture. Évora is a city that rewards slow exploration, a place where you can lose yourself in the winding streets and discover hidden gems around every corner.

As the sun began to set, we found ourselves drawn to the ADC Wine & Food Bar. This cozy little bar, with its extensive wine list and delicious tapas, was the perfect place to unwind after a day of sightseeing. We settled into a comfortable corner, ordered a bottle of local red wine, and began to sample the tapas. The cheese and charcuterie were particularly good, showcasing the region's culinary expertise. The ADC Wine & Food Bar was a delightful end to our day, a place where we could relax, enjoy each other's company, and savor the flavors of Portugal.


Experience the best of Évora's culinary scene at ADC Wine & Food Bar, where local wines and flavors come together in a cozy setting.
The Évora Cultural Experience was something we didn't expect, but it was truly the capstone of our day. It was more than just a tour; it was an immersion into the heart and soul of Évora. We met with a local guide, who shared stories and insights that brought the city to life. We learned about the history, the culture, and the people who have shaped Évora into the place it is today. It was a reminder that travel is about more than just seeing the sights; it's about connecting with the people and the places we visit.


Discover the historical charm and vibrant culture of Évora at Giraldo Square, the heart of this UNESCO World Heritage city.
As we walked back to our hotel, the Mar De AR Aqueduto Hotel, I couldn't help but feel a sense of gratitude for the experiences we had today. Évora had challenged us, delighted us, and surprised us in equal measure. It was a day of contrasts, a journey that took us from the depths of despair to the heights of joy. And as I drifted off to sleep, I couldn't help but wonder what tomorrow would bring, as we plan to visit the Aqueduto de Évora, Páteo de São Miguel, and Museu de Évora.


Experience luxury and comfort at the Mar De AR Aqueduto Hotel, your perfect getaway with top-notch amenities and a prime location for exploration.
Tomorrow, we plan to explore the Aqueduto de Évora and the Páteo de São Miguel, further immersing ourselves in the history and beauty of this remarkable city. I'm particularly looking forward to visiting the Museu de Évora - Núcleo de Arte Sacra da Igreja das Mercês, hoping to gain a deeper understanding of the region's religious art. And, of course, we'll be sure to find some more culinary gems to savor along the way.

Good night from Évora!