Solo Adventure in Yakushima: Exploring Japan's Natural Wonder

Whispers of the Ocean and Ancient Cedars

Today was a day of contrasts, a dance between the ephemeral touch of the sea and the enduring presence of ancient giants. It’s funny how travel days often take on a life of their own, diverging from the planned itinerary but offering unexpected treasures along the way. Yakushima continues to surprise me with its blend of natural beauty and local charm.

My morning began, as it often does, with a hearty breakfast. I ventured to the Yakushima Furusato Market Island Megumi Kan, a local spot buzzing with early morning activity. It was a great place to savor some local flavors. I opted for a traditional Japanese breakfast set, complete with grilled fish, miso soup, and pickled vegetables. Fortified for the day, I set off to chase the tides.

The Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen was my first destination, a unique experience I had been eagerly anticipating. This seaside hot spring is only accessible during low tide, making it a natural wonder dictated by the ocean's rhythm. Driving south from Onoaida, I found the small village of Hirauchi. The weather was quite nice, with clear skies and a temperature of around 26°C. As I approached, the sign for the onsen was visible on the left-hand side of the main road. The anticipation grew as I parked and made my way down to the rocky shore. The air was filled with the salty scent of the sea, mingling with a subtle hint of sulfur from the hot spring waters.


Experience the breathtaking beauty of Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen, a unique outdoor hot spring retreat on Yakushima Island, surrounded by nature's splendor.

As I arrived, the tide was indeed low enough to reveal the natural rock pools that form the onsen. Local legend says that these pools were created about four hundred years ago when locals found steam rising from the rocks. They piled up rocks to create small bathing areas, and these have become the onsen as it exists today. I carefully stepped into one of the pools. The water was wonderfully warm, a soothing contrast to the cool sea breeze. The pools can fit about fifteen people. There were already a few locals enjoying the morning soak, their faces relaxed and content. I joined them, sinking into the water and letting the warmth envelop me.

There are a few things you should know if you plan to visit this special place. The onsen is open for about two hours before and after low tide. There is a timetable posted nearby with the exact times for each day. The water temperature varies depending on the tide, usually between 38 to 40°C. There are three pools. The onsen is mixed gender, and it is acceptable to keep a towel in the water for modesty. It costs 200 yen.

Looking out at the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean while soaking in the warm onsen water was an experience I won't soon forget. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks, the feel of the sun on my skin, and the gentle murmur of conversation created a sense of perfect tranquility. It was a moment of pure bliss, a reminder of the simple pleasures in life. As I soaked, I thought about Marie and Thomas, and how much they would have loved this. Perhaps one day I'll bring them here to experience this magical place.

The ocean's rhythm dictates the experience, offering a serene escape where the warmth of the earth meets the vastness of the sea.

After my rejuvenating soak, I felt a pang of hunger and decided to grab lunch at Il Mare. This Italian restaurant, located near the airport, came highly recommended. I was intrigued by the idea of Italian cuisine with a Yakushima twist. The restaurant is located along a road that runs past the airport.


Discover Il Mare in Yakushima for an unforgettable Italian dining experience amidst stunning natural beauty.

As I stepped inside, I was greeted by a cozy and inviting atmosphere. The aroma of freshly baked pizza filled the air. The owner was incredibly welcoming and spoke excellent English. I decided to try one of their specialties: a pizza with local venison and mushrooms. It was an inspired combination, the rich flavors of the venison complementing the earthy mushrooms and the tangy tomato sauce. The crust was perfectly crisp, and the ingredients were clearly fresh and of high quality.

After lunch, I set my sights on another of Yakushima's natural wonders: the Daio Sugi. This ancient cedar tree, once thought to be the largest on the island, stands as a testament to the island's rich natural heritage. To get there, I had to take a bus to the Arakawa trailhead, a journey of about 30 minutes from Anbo.


Discover the ancient beauty of Daio Sugi, a remarkable nature preserve in Yakushima, showcasing towering cedar trees and rich biodiversity.

The Arakawa Trail, once a railway track used to transport logs, is now a popular hiking path leading to the Jomon Sugi, another ancient cedar. The trail is relatively flat and easy to navigate, making it accessible to hikers of all levels. From March to November, private cars are not allowed on the access road to the trailhead, so a shuttle bus from the Yakusugi Museum is necessary.

As I walked along the trail, I was surrounded by lush greenery and the sounds of the forest. Towering cedar trees lined the path, their gnarled branches reaching towards the sky. The air was fresh and clean, carrying the scent of damp earth and ancient wood.

After hiking for a couple of hours, I finally reached the Daio Sugi. Standing at 24.7 meters tall and with a circumference of 11.1 meters, it is an awe-inspiring sight. Though no longer the largest tree on the island, its sheer size and age command respect. I stood in silence, gazing up at its massive trunk and imagining the centuries of history it had witnessed. Daio Sugi is thought to be about 3,000 years old.

The trail to Jomon Sugi is also home to other famous trees, such as Meoto Sugi and Wilson's Stump. Wilson's Stump is the remains of a giant cedar that was felled in the 1580s.

As the day drew to a close, I made my way back to my accommodation, feeling a sense of gratitude for the experiences I had enjoyed. I decided to treat myself to dinner at the Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, drawn in by its reputation for local cuisine and its artistic ambiance. The restaurant is known for serving local seafood and produce.


Discover authentic Japanese cuisine at Yakushima Gallery Restaurant, where local flavors meet traditional techniques in an unforgettable dining experience.

The restaurant was cozy and inviting, with artwork adorning the walls. The menu featured a variety of local specialties, and I opted for a dish of grilled flying fish, a Yakushima delicacy. The fish was perfectly cooked, its delicate flavor enhanced by a subtle smoky char. The portion was generous, and it was served with rice and miso soup.

Before heading back, I decided to check out Fisherman's Bar NINA. Although I am not a big drinker, I thought it would be a good opportunity to experience some of Yakushima's nightlife. The bar has excellent reviews. The bar’s opening times might change due to fishing times.


Experience the freshest seafood in Yakushima at Fisherman's Bar NINA, where culinary excellence meets stunning ocean views.

As I reflect on the day, I am struck by the diversity of experiences Yakushima has to offer. From the soothing waters of the Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen to the majestic presence of the Daio Sugi and the flavorful cuisine of the local restaurants, this island is a feast for the senses. I am already looking forward to my final day here, where I plan to visit Yakushima Island and the Sunset Hill Observation Deck. I also plan to visit The North Face shop.

Tomorrow marks the end of my solo adventure in Yakushima. It's hard to believe how quickly these fifteen days have passed. I feel a sense of accomplishment, having immersed myself in the island's natural beauty and culture. But I also feel a tinge of sadness, knowing that I will soon be leaving this special place behind. I will have breakfast at the Yakushima Airport Restaurant. I will have lunch at Kotobuki. My last dinner will be at Each Meal, a Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter. But I know that the memories I have made here will stay with me long after I return home. Yakushima has captured a piece of my heart, and I hope to return someday to explore its hidden corners and rediscover its magic.

As I prepare to leave, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the experiences I have had and the people I have met. Yakushima has been more than just a destination; it has been a journey of self-discovery and connection with nature. And as I look ahead to the next chapter of my travels, I carry with me the lessons I have learned and the memories I have made on this enchanting island.