Exploring the Historical Charms of Fes with Friends

Timeless Echoes of Fes: Palaces, Prayers, and Artisans

Today, Lena and I, along with our friends, embarked on a journey through the heart of Fes, a city that seems to whisper tales of centuries past. We ventured into hidden palaces, serene madrasas, and bustling artisan workshops, each corner revealing a new layer of Fes's rich tapestry. It was a day of cultural immersion, one that deepened our appreciation for this ancient city and its vibrant traditions.

Our day began with a hearty breakfast at Nagham Cafe. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingled with the sweet scent of Moroccan pastries, creating a delightful start to our explorations. The cafe's cozy atmosphere and friendly staff made us feel right at home, as if we were locals starting our day in a familiar haunt. I opted for a traditional Moroccan breakfast – msemen with honey and a strong, sweet coffee. Lena, ever the adventurous one, tried a local omelette with khlea, a preserved meat, which she declared was surprisingly delicious.


Savor authentic Moroccan cuisine and fast food delights at Nagham Cafe in Fès – where every bite tells a story.

With our appetites satisfied, we set off to explore the architectural wonders of Fes, starting with the El Glaoui Palace. Finding the palace was an adventure in itself, navigating through the labyrinthine streets of the medina. The Dar Glaoui, as it's also known, was once owned by the powerful Glaoui family. The palace is located in what was the al-'Uyun ("the [water] Sources") neighbourhood of Fes el-Bali, known today as the Ziat or Ziyat neighbourhood. As we stepped through its unassuming entrance, we were transported back in time. The palace, though partly dilapidated, still exudes an aura of grandeur. Its vast courtyards, intricate mosaics, and ornate stucco work hinted at the opulence of its former residents. The Glaoui family clearly had an eye for luxury, as the Dar Glaoui was the first building in Morocco to have electricity and heating.


Experience the splendor of El Glaoui Palace in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing exquisite Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

Wandering through the palace, I couldn't help but imagine the bustling life that once filled its halls. It was fascinating to learn that after Morocco regained its independence in 1956, the palace fell into neglect, a stark reminder of the fleeting nature of power and fortune.

Exploring Fes is like stepping into a living museum, where every corner tells a story of a rich and complex past.

Our next stop was the Al Attarine Madrasa, a jewel of Marinid architecture. As we approached, the intricate facade beckoned us closer, promising a glimpse into a world of artistic and spiritual enlightenment. The madrasa, a Koranic school, was built in the 14th century and is renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship. From the moment we stepped into the central courtyard, we were captivated by the harmonious blend of colors, patterns, and textures. The zellij tilework, the carved stucco, and the cedarwood details all spoke of the dedication and skill of the artisans who created this masterpiece.


Explore the enchanting Al Attarine Madrasa, a historical landmark in Fes showcasing intricate Moroccan architecture and rich cultural heritage.

Lena, with her keen eye for design, was particularly fascinated by the geometric patterns and floral motifs that adorned the walls and ceilings. I, on the other hand, was drawn to the quiet serenity of the prayer hall, where I could almost hear the echoes of students reciting verses from the Quran. It was a humbling experience to stand in a place that had been a center of learning and spirituality for centuries.

Leaving the madrasa, we made our way to the Nejjarine Fountain, a beautiful example of Moroccan public art. Located in Nejjarine Square, the fountain is a gathering place for locals and tourists alike. The intricate zellige mosaics and the soothing sound of flowing water created a peaceful oasis in the midst of the bustling medina. I watched as a local woman filled her water bottle, a simple act that connected me to the daily life of the city.


Explore the architectural beauty of Nejjarine Fountain in Fes, a symbol of Moroccan craftsmanship and a peaceful escape in the bustling medina.

The Nejjarine Fountain is attached to the Funduq al-Najjarin, a historic caravanserai. Today it houses the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. We decided to step inside and were immediately transported into a world of intricate woodwork. The museum showcases a stunning collection of wooden artifacts, from intricately carved doors and chests to delicate musical instruments and household items. It was fascinating to see the skill and artistry that went into creating these objects, each one a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Morocco.

After immersing ourselves in the beauty of the Nejjarine Fountain and Museum, it was time for lunch. We headed to Restaurant Palais Lahlou, drawn in by its promise of authentic Moroccan cuisine. The restaurant is located in the vibrant and historic ancien médina of Fes. The interior was adorned with intricate tile work and traditional decor. We indulged in a feast of traditional Moroccan dishes, including tagine, couscous, and pastilla. The flavors were rich and complex, a testament to the culinary traditions of Fes. The staff was attentive and friendly, making us feel like honored guests.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors in an enchanting setting at Restaurant Palais Lahlou in Fes.

As we savored our meal, we discussed the day's adventures and marveled at the beauty and history that surrounded us. It was a moment of connection, a reminder of the power of travel to bring people together and broaden our understanding of the world.

In the afternoon, we ventured into the Cooperative artisanal de fes, eager to witness local artisans at work. The cooperative is a hub of creativity, where skilled craftsmen and women create a variety of traditional Moroccan goods. We watched as a potter shaped clay on a spinning wheel, a weaver created intricate patterns on a loom, and a metalworker hammered delicate designs into a copper plate. It was inspiring to see the passion and dedication that these artisans brought to their craft, preserving traditions that have been passed down through generations.


Explore handcrafted Moroccan treasures at Cooperative Artisanal de Fes, where tradition meets creativity in a vibrant marketplace.

I couldn't resist purchasing a few souvenirs – a hand-painted ceramic bowl for Lena and a set of intricately carved wooden coasters for myself. These items would serve as reminders of our time in Fes, tangible connections to the people and culture we had encountered.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way to Restaurant Darna fes for dinner. Nestled in the enchanting streets of Fes El Bali, Restaurant Darna Fes stands as a beacon of Moroccan culinary artistry. We enjoyed a delicious meal of traditional Moroccan cuisine, savoring the flavors of the region one last time before heading back to our riad. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, the perfect end to a day of exploration and discovery.


Experience authentic Moroccan flavors at Restaurant Darna Fes - a family-friendly bistro offering delightful vegan options.

Reflecting on the day, I realized that Fes is more than just a city; it's a living, breathing testament to the power of culture and tradition. From the hidden palaces to the serene madrasas, from the bustling artisan workshops to the welcoming restaurants, every corner of Fes offers a glimpse into its rich and complex past. It's a city that captivates the senses, challenges the mind, and nourishes the soul.

Tomorrow, we plan to explore Bab Boujloud, the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, and the Henna Souk and pottery. And perhaps we'll end the day with a drink at Zen garden. I'm excited to see what new adventures await us in this enchanting city.

And as I sit here, penning down the memories of the day, I feel a profound sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience the magic of Fes. It's a journey that has enriched my life in ways I never could have imagined, and I can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.

For those planning a visit, remember to bring comfortable walking shoes, a sense of adventure, and an open mind. Fes is a city that rewards those who are willing to get lost in its labyrinthine streets and embrace its unique culture. You won't be disappointed.

Until tomorrow,
Jiří