Cultural Exploration of Fes with Friends

A Sensory Symphony in Fes

Today was an absolute whirlwind of experiences that truly captured the essence of Fes. From the pungent aromas of the Chouara Tannery to the peaceful whispers within the Aben Danan Synagogue, and finally, the serene beauty of Jnan Sbil garden, every moment was a vibrant assault on the senses. I'm so excited to share all the details with you, my fellow travelers!



Our day began with a hearty breakfast at La Maison Bleue. The traditional Moroccan pastries and mint tea were the perfect fuel for the adventures that lay ahead. Greta would have loved the elegant setting! I made a mental note to bring her here someday. After breakfast, my friends and I braced ourselves for a visit to the infamous Chouara Tannery. I had read about the strong smells, but nothing could have prepared me for the reality. It was intense, to say the least! Thankfully, the local guides offered us sprigs of mint, which helped to mask the less-than-pleasant odors. The sight, however, was something else entirely. The tanneries were like a giant, multi-colored paint palette, with men working diligently in the vats, dyeing the leather using ancient techniques. It was a truly mesmerizing experience.


Explore the vibrant Chouara Tannery in Fes, a historic site showcasing traditional leather tanning techniques and colorful artistry unique to Morocco.

I learned that the dyes used are all-natural, derived from ingredients like indigo for blue, poppy for red, and saffron for yellow. The process involves soaking the hides in a mixture of cow urine and pigeon excrement to soften them before they are dyed. It's a far cry from the sanitized processes we use back in Berlin, but there was something incredibly authentic about witnessing this traditional craft. I even managed to haggle for a beautiful leather wallet, a tangible reminder of this unique experience. I'm sure my students back in Berlin will be fascinated by the stories behind it.

Traditional methods meet vibrant colors, creating a scene that’s both pungent and picturesque.

Next on our itinerary was the Aben Danan Synagogue, a hidden gem tucked away in the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter. The synagogue dates back to the 17th century and is a testament to the rich Jewish heritage in Fes. It was built by Mimoun Ben Sidan, a wealthy merchant, when around 1600 Jewish families moved to Fes. Stepping inside was like entering another world. The synagogue was small and intimate, with beautiful wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and a serene courtyard. The architecture showcased a blend of Moroccan and Jewish artistic traditions. I was particularly struck by the large Torah Ark, made of carved wood and adorned with elaborate plasterwork. The blue figured Moroccan tiles were also stunning. The synagogue's history is fascinating, having been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries. It reopened in 1999 after a lengthy restoration, a testament to the dedication of the local Jewish community and the support of organizations like the World Monuments Fund. The synagogue is named after Rabbi Shlomo Ibn Danan, who oversaw it in the early 20th century. The Danan family's legacy in Fes dates back to the 15th century when they fled Granada during the expulsion of Jews from Spain.


Explore the Aben Danan Synagogue in Fes, a stunning historical site showcasing Morocco's rich Jewish heritage and architectural beauty.

It was a humbling experience to stand in a place of worship that had witnessed so much history. I took a moment to reflect on the importance of preserving cultural heritage and promoting understanding between different faiths. I thought about my students in Berlin, many of whom come from diverse backgrounds. I hope that my travels can inspire them to appreciate the richness of different cultures and to embrace tolerance and respect.



After a quick and satisfying lunch at Nagham Cafe, where I enjoyed a delicious orange salad and couscous, we made our way to Jnan Sbil, a sprawling garden oasis in the heart of Fes. After the intensity of the tannery and the somber reflection at the synagogue, the gardens were a welcome respite. It was a perfect spot to unwind and soak in the natural beauty.


Discover the tranquil beauty of Jnan Sbil, a serene garden oasis in Fes, Morocco, perfect for relaxation and exploration amidst lush greenery.

The gardens were originally laid out in the 18th century by Sultan Moulay Abdallah. They feature a diverse collection of plants, trees, and flowers from around the world. I wandered along the paved paths, admiring the fragrant blooms and the lush greenery. The sound of water from the fountains added to the tranquil atmosphere. I learned that the garden has more than 3,000 plant species. Despite it being February, the gardens were still vibrant with life. I can only imagine how beautiful they must be in the spring! The park also welcomes outdoor concerts in the summer.



As I strolled through the gardens, I couldn't help but feel a sense of peace and serenity. It was a perfect reminder that even in the midst of a bustling city, there are always places where one can find tranquility. I sat by one of the fountains, closed my eyes, and listened to the gentle sound of the water. It was a moment of pure bliss.



Before heading back to our guesthouse, we decided to treat ourselves to a drink at Mezzanine, a stylish bar known for its Mediterranean and Moroccan cuisine. We enjoyed some tapas and local beer while listening to live music. It was a perfect way to end a long and eventful day. The atmosphere was relaxed and the decor was modern. It was one of the few places serving beer in Fes, which was a welcome change after a day of exploring the medina.


Experience the vibrant rooftop lounge in Fes, where stunning views meet delectable cuisine, creating the perfect escape for tourists.

The Mezzanine bar is near the Jnan Sbil garden. The bar had a terrace, but we decided to sit inside and enjoy the live music. The service was friendly and the prices were reasonable. It was a great spot to unwind and reflect on the day's adventures. I made a mental note to recommend it to other travelers looking for a place to relax and enjoy a drink in Fes.



As I sit here writing this blog post, I can't help but feel grateful for the experiences I had today. Fes is a city that truly captivates the senses and nourishes the soul. From the vibrant tanneries to the serene synagogues and gardens, every corner of this city has a story to tell. I am so glad that I had the opportunity to explore it with my friends. I know that these memories will stay with me long after I leave Morocco.



Tomorrow, we plan to visit the Dar Batha Museum, Al Attarine Madrasa, and explore the Talaa Kebira. I'm excited to see what other hidden gems Fes has in store for us. I'm also looking forward to trying some of the local cuisine at Fez & Friends for breakfast, Restaurant Soultana for lunch, and Les Mystères de Dar Tajine for dinner. And maybe a little shopping at Art Fez!



Before I turn in for the night, I want to share one more thought. Traveling is not just about seeing new places; it's about opening your mind to new experiences and connecting with different cultures. It's about learning, growing, and becoming a more compassionate and understanding human being. And that, my friends, is the true magic of travel.


We ended the day with a delightful dinner at Restaurant Dar Hatim. Karima and Fouad welcomed us into their home restaurant with open arms, treating us like family. The restaurant felt like a living museum and was definitely the highlight of my trip to Morocco. Karima's take on the classic Lamb tagine stood out as the absolute best I have ever tried. Fouad drove us back to our riad, sharing stories of his upbringing in the medina and how it has changed over the years. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.


Experience authentic Moroccan cuisine at Restaurant Dar Hatim in Fès - where every meal tells a story of tradition and flavor.

Until tomorrow!